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Old 07-04-2013, 02:14 AM   #5596
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Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
Generally speaking decreasing the track width at the front will increase steering at the front, this is true if you operate removing the spacer between the hex and the wheel. If you change pivot the behavior of the car is completely different because you change also the roll center.
However I think is not your case, because my track is really tight, In which part of the track you're having problem?
Which motor are you using?
@NItroX

Oversteer occurs at U-turns (or turns greater than 135 degree) when hitting the throttle after just passing the apex.
The used motor is 10.5T.
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:59 AM   #5597
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@NItroX

Oversteer occurs at U-turns (or turns greater than 135 degree) when hitting the throttle after just passing the apex.
The used motor is 10.5T.
Ok, you should work on the front roll center trying to raise it, you should remove 0.5 from under the inner link position or also try D/D and 1xa/E or C/C and 1XB/D.
Work from there, with this pivot's setup I think you will lose some steering also entering the corner consider the anti-dive in that case.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:54 AM   #5598
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If anyone is looking for a black type II diff let me know it's new (assembled).
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:06 AM   #5599
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If anyone is looking for a black type II diff let me know it's new (assembled).
PM sent!
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:45 AM   #5600
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Does anyone know if the part numbers for the gear diff on 417x is different then the gear diff for the 417v5?
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:22 AM   #5601
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The out drives are different, you would need to purchase them as a hop up option as your cant currently buy a diff complete with them.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #5602
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Quote:
NItrox416,

Tx a lot for the suggestion.
The track is indeed small, http://prorc.ae/videos/

Decreasing the track width using B blocks at the front will increase steering at the front.
At the moment I'm using C-and C-separate already.

Reducing weight transfer is a good idea.
Will play with the droop.
Cool looking track, the grip looks quite low though. Add more front droop and stand the rear shocks up or use stiffer springs (HPI silver/ride red all around). Front anti-dive and standing the front shocks up will also give you more stability on power.

It could also be the diff - kit 417x is 900cst which is quite light, if you are running mod it might be diffing out, so move to 2k. Alternatively if you're running quite a hard diff (4k etc) you might want to go down in oil. I find 2k is the best option to start with at most tracks.

If you post your full setup we can help more
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:53 AM   #5603
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Good results for the Tamiya boys at round 2 of the ETS sister series AOC in Melbourne over the weekend. In superstock 13.5 boosted (a big class in asia) we had 3 cars in the amain with Justin V making the podium in 3rd.

I managed to make the A main and finished 7th in modified. It was an awesome event and for me having a chance to go racing with Volker, Keven H and JJ Wang was amazing.

I've put my setup and some commentary on my blog http://tchub.wordpress.com

Here's a link to the series info http://www.aocrc.com

And we started a hastag on instagram for the event with lots of photos http://statigr.am/tag/aoc2013

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Old 07-08-2013, 03:06 AM   #5604
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Tx a lot Craig,

Grip is indeed quite low. Big difference between afternoon when the sun is on the track and when there is shade in the late afternoon. At the moment, air temp is around 45C in the afternoon and about 37C in the evening
More grip when it's cooler.

My setup:
HPI Silver all around
Suspensionblocks: Front C-C (separate) and rear XA-E (separate)
ff 0, fr 0.5, rf 0.5 and rr 0.5
Shocks front, position 4 (middle) on tower, oil 500, 3 holes piston.
Shocks rear, position 3 on tower, oil 450, 3 holes piston
Ride height 5.5 front and 6 rear
Droop: 5 front and 4 rear
Camberlink front: position 1, 4mm shim
Camberlink rear: position 1, 3 mm shim
3mm shim on the rear hub
Stabilizer medium front and rear
Front spool, gear diff rear 1k2 oil.

Last edited by Mister-E; 07-08-2013 at 03:37 AM. Reason: Incomplete
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:44 PM   #5605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Good results for the Tamiya boys at round 2 of the ETS sister series AOC in Melbourne over the weekend. In superstock 13.5 boosted (a big class in asia) we had 3 cars in the amain with Justin V making the podium in 3rd.

I managed to make the A main and finished 7th in modified. It was an awesome event and for me having a chance to go racing with Volker, Keven H and JJ Wang was amazing.

I've put my setup and some commentary on my blog http://tchub.wordpress.com

Here's a link to the series info http://www.aocrc.com

And we started a hastag on instagram for the event with lots of photos http://statigr.am/tag/aoc2013

I wasn't racing at the AOC but just spectating (and marshalling one race) it was a brilliant event and very well run for a temporary track.

I didn't know you were there, was going to say hi, and thank you for all the work you do in this thread
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:43 PM   #5606
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Originally Posted by Mister-E View Post
Tx a lot Craig,

Grip is indeed quite low. Big difference between afternoon when the sun is on the track and when there is shade in the late afternoon. At the moment, air temp is around 45C in the afternoon and about 37C in the evening
More grip when it's cooler.

My setup:
HPI Silver all around
Suspensionblocks: Front C-C (separate) and rear XA-E (separate)
ff 0, fr 0.5, rf 0.5 and rr 0.5
Shocks front, position 4 (middle) on tower, oil 500, 3 holes piston.
Shocks rear, position 3 on tower, oil 450, 3 holes piston
Ride height 5.5 front and 6 rear
Droop: 5 front and 4 rear
Camberlink front: position 1, 4mm shim
Camberlink rear: position 1, 3 mm shim
3mm shim on the rear hub
Stabilizer medium front and rear
Front spool, gear diff rear 1k2 oil.
That setup should be pretty good, stand the rear shocks up to hole 5 and see how you go, and 2k oil in the diff. Also remove the front motor mount screw and replace it with a grub screw - you'll have to use loctite or glue to hold it in place. That will let the chassis flex more on power, and it'll also give a bit more steering.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:36 PM   #5607
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
...Also remove the front motor mount screw and replace it with a grub screw...
Hi Craig,

when using the Raceberry chassis, would you also replace one motor mount screw with a grub screw? If so, which one (or both)? There's one in the top deck and one in the chassis.

ATM I tend to replace the screw in the top deck. To me it feels like the car as a whole flexes more evenly like this, also the car seems less prone to tweaking now.

Greetings, Christian
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:21 AM   #5608
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Originally Posted by skyball View Post
Hi Craig,

when using the Raceberry chassis, would you also replace one motor mount screw with a grub screw? If so, which one (or both)? There's one in the top deck and one in the chassis.

ATM I tend to replace the screw in the top deck. To me it feels like the car as a whole flexes more evenly like this, also the car seems less prone to tweaking now.

Greetings, Christian
Those using the raceberry chassis, what 3x5 mm button head screws are you using to hold the spur gear on. I did not see that they came with my raceberry conversion kit?
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:30 AM   #5609
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
Those using the raceberry chassis, what 3x5 mm button head screws are you using to hold the spur gear on. I did not see that they came with my raceberry conversion kit?
I just used some 3x8mm screws and cut (dremeled) them down to size. The only thing to watch is that you use "normal" button head screws. I also ordered some 3Racing "extra flat" button head screws, but they were too flat. So the rear drive pulley didn't even touch them and kind of wobbled around on the main gear adaptor.

Christian
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Last edited by skyball; 07-09-2013 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:18 AM   #5610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyball View Post
I just used some 3x8mm screws and cut (dremeled) them down to size. The only thing to watch is that you use "normal" button head screws. I also ordered some 3Racing "extra flat" button head screws, but they were too flat. So the rear drive pulley didn't even touch them and kind of wobbled around on the main gear adaptor.

Christian
Well I purchased 2 different manufacturers 3x5mm button head screws
to see which had a lower profile head. I cannot find the yokomo screws.
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