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Old 06-29-2013, 02:12 PM   #5581
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Is it any quicker now you have changes the setup? More direct etc?
Timing wise, not much. In fact, I am finding myself tuning it to match its old characteristics.

It's more of quicker direction change, better stability, lower CG sort of chicane advantages. But seems to be lacking a sort of quick, on-the-edge feel we usually expects from a TRF. Win some, lose some. This guy behaves like a Xray T4.

Up to perspectives if that is good or bad.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:39 PM   #5582
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I just today picked up a Tamiya 416. I do not know which version but it still has NIMH cutouts for the battery. My question is this: will a 417 chassis plate bolt on to the 416 to make a lipo car or are they completely different?

Thank you very much for an answer a I can get a 417 chassis plate very reasonable.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:29 PM   #5583
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You can't fit a 417 chassis on the 416 although exotech do a nice replacement chassis if you want one without nimh cut-outs.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:39 PM   #5584
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Thank you, now I know which one to get.
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:53 AM   #5585
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Hi guys,

Assuming that based on a "standard" setup (417X), at the track the car has a bit of oversteer on corner exit forcing you to be very carefull when applying the throttle for the next section of the track.
Any suggestion on setup change (to stop the pendulum effect)? And why would you suggest that change?

Tx a lot in advance for your thought!
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:22 AM   #5586
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Hi guys,

Assuming that based on a "standard" setup (417X), at the track the car has a bit of oversteer on corner exit forcing you to be very carefull when applying the throttle for the next section of the track.
Any suggestion on setup change (to stop the pendulum effect)? And why would you suggest that change?

Tx a lot in advance for your thought!
Put 1B,1Bsep in front and 1XA brace, 1E in the rear: this is valid for a small tight track, it would be better to know the type of your track.
I think it reduces the weight transfer at front.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:36 PM   #5587
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Question, when is it a good time to run a front gear diff in front?
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #5588
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Also in 17.5 how tight or loose should I run the belts?
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:59 AM   #5589
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NItrox416,

Tx a lot for the suggestion.
The track is indeed small, http://prorc.ae/videos/

Decreasing the track width using B blocks at the front will increase steering at the front.
At the moment I'm using C-and C-separate already.

Reducing weight transfer is a good idea.
Will play with the droop.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:22 AM   #5590
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Hi, using the v5 aeration shocks. setting the rebound to 0 is easy but if i test the rebound a few days later the rebound is all over the place. Is anyone else finding this?
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:42 AM   #5591
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Hi, using the v5 aeration shocks. setting the rebound to 0 is easy but if i test the rebound a few days later the rebound is all over the place. Is anyone else finding this?
That's how aeration shocks work. There will always be a small amount of air in the shock. Also, given the shock o-ring setup, they suck air as well.

Overtime, very shortly in fact, the shocks will have more air than what you started with, so more pressure builds in the shock the longer you use them, which is why you have to bleed them after each run.

The aeration shocks are supposed to be pretty good for asphalt, but again, they need to be bleed every run and rebuilt every few runs atleast to keep them consistent. Team TRF drivers were rebuilding the shocks after every run. I believe now they use the regular TRF Works shocks, as do most everyone else does as well.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:48 AM   #5592
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NItrox416,

Tx a lot for the suggestion.
The track is indeed small, http://prorc.ae/videos/

Decreasing the track width using B blocks at the front will increase steering at the front.
At the moment I'm using C-and C-separate already.

Reducing weight transfer is a good idea.
Will play with the droop.
Generally speaking decreasing the track width at the front will increase steering at the front, this is true if you operate removing the spacer between the hex and the wheel. If you change pivot the behavior of the car is completely different because you change also the roll center.
However I think is not your case, because my track is really tight, In which part of the track you're having problem?
Which motor are you using?
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:02 AM   #5593
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Thanks autocratic for your detailed reply! I wasn't aware they had to be bleed so many times. Gives me something else to do between runs
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:32 AM   #5594
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Thanks autocratic for your detailed reply! I wasn't aware they had to be bleed so many times. Gives me something else to do between runs
Yep. Doesn't take long, but just another thing to add to the list of checks for touring cars.

I have the TRF Works bladder shocks which are much nicer and obviously easier to deal with. There still is maintenance involved but you can run a whole day of racing without the shocks changing at all.

The aeration shocks are nice, but they don't seal as good as they need to.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:01 PM   #5595
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
Yep. Doesn't take long, but just another thing to add to the list of checks for touring cars.

I have the TRF Works bladder shocks which are much nicer and obviously easier to deal with. There still is maintenance involved but you can run a whole day of racing without the shocks changing at all.

The aeration shocks are nice, but they don't seal as good as they need to.
That was my understanding of the aeration shocks as well, the factory guys will go to them I believe if the grip at the track is really bad, but if they have enough traction, they'll prefer to stick with the traditional bladder shocks we all know & love....
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