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Old 01-06-2011, 07:13 AM   #541
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Hi, What is the reference of 46mm steel driveshafts ?¿

And to use 46mm instead of 44mm?

Thanks
TAM 51092 - 46mm Steel Dogbone

Basically, on the kit, the 44m alloy ones have a) a tendency to bend if you hit something and b) can chew up the spool cups as the sit a little far out in the cup.
Best solution to avoid this problem (and it was the same on the 6) is to use the 46mm Steel dogbones instead. Never bent a set, and spool cups last a lot longer. Might loose a little steering, but not that I would notice!

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Old 01-06-2011, 08:20 AM   #542
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All about the steel 46's. I have not broken a single spool cup in the past year+ of running them on my 416. Just replace the cups when they get worn out instead.
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:27 PM   #543
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post

Basically, on the kit, the 44m alloy ones have a) a tendency to bend if you hit something and b) can chew up the spool cups as the sit a little far out in the cup.
Best solution to avoid this problem (and it was the same on the 6) is to use the 46mm Steel dogbones instead. Never bent a set, and spool cups last a lot longer. Might loose a little steering, but not that I would notice!

HiH
Ed
Thanks¡'¡¡¡
I understand to be bent into a hit something hard, or are very fragile?
With 44mm aluminum feel the same?
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:28 PM   #544
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Thanks¡'¡¡¡
I understand to be bent into a hit something hard, or are very fragile?
With 44mm aluminum feel the same?
The 44mm aluminum is strong for being aluminum. But steel is steel.. much stronger.
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:35 PM   #545
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The 44mm aluminum is strong for being aluminum. But steel is steel.. much stronger.
Approximately how many batteries can last a front driveshaft in good condition?
I speak to compete in races at a good level.
I've run all season with the same front and rear driveshaft (MI4LP) are aluminum and only at the end had something to wear, talk about 13 or more races and all your workouts.

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:08 PM   #546
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Anyone know of any stronger after market inner hinge pins for this car. I know dont crash etc... but they seem to bend more often than some other brand cars ive had given the same approximate speed of crash etc...
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:11 PM   #547
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Has anyone tried using the Spec-R/Tamiya gear diffs in the front of the 417 with the 46mm steel driveshafts?

I find that on my 416X, using the 46mm shafts in the front with a Spec-R gear diff, causes steering binding issues if I increase the front camber to anything more than about 0.5 degrees. The plastic blades on the end of the driveshaft sit very deep inside the outdrive, so I've gone back to the standard 44mm alu shafts, as that allows 1.5 degrees of camber with no binding/stiffness in the steering.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:59 PM   #548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinDarK83 View Post
Approximately how many batteries can last a front driveshaft in good condition?
I speak to compete in races at a good level.
I've run all season with the same front and rear driveshaft (MI4LP) are aluminum and only at the end had something to wear, talk about 13 or more races and all your workouts.

Regards
It's more that they are fragile when taking a hit. If your worried about the weight, you can always try the 46mm alloy ones (Actually what Jilles' used on his 416 in the RedRC build videos). I'm pretty sure that the Mi4 dog-bones are beefier than the tamiya ones though...

Honestly, I tried back-backing between the 46mm steel and 46mm alloy, and didn't notice a difference. Hence why I now go for the easier (and cheaper) life of just 46mm steels everywhere Put them on the car, and you'll be able to run not just races, but literally years on one set...
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:04 AM   #549
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It's more that they are fragile when taking a hit. If your worried about the weight, you can always try the 46mm alloy ones (Actually what Jilles' used on his 416 in the RedRC build videos). I'm pretty sure that the Mi4 dog-bones are beefier than the tamiya ones though...

Honestly, I tried back-backing between the 46mm steel and 46mm alloy, and didn't notice a difference. Hence why I now go for the easier (and cheaper) life of just 46mm steels everywhere Put them on the car, and you'll be able to run not just races, but literally years on one set...
Thanks, as soon as I have to try all three types, to see noticeable differences between them.

Thanks for the reply
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:44 PM   #550
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Anyone run the Tamiya Type-C carpet tire yet? I have a set I am going to try tomorrow.. I wonder who makes the tire for Tamiya.
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Old 01-08-2011, 06:41 PM   #551
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I had planned on saving my fresh 417 for Snowbirds, but ended up having to race it since the Tekin in the 416X wasn't working. I think practicing with a car, and racing with it can sometimes be very different, especially if you've got it setup to be twitchy. Once I clicked in a little steering expo, after a mediocre first round, I pretty much avoided hitting anything the rest of the night, and was able to record a (rare, for me, lately) win against very good competition.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:57 PM   #552
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Can someone anyone with a 417 and a 416 lipo chassis lay them over and let me know if there is any compatibility, can one use the 417 chassis plate on a 416?
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:03 PM   #553
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Can someone anyone with a 417 and a 416 lipo chassis lay them over and let me know if there is any compatibility, can one use the 417 chassis plate on a 416?
I have done this and they are not compatible. All of the 417 bulkheads are narrower and have different hole spacing in every way.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:38 PM   #554
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Great, thank you for the info! I have a Lipo chassis here and was reluctant to use it since they are vaporware now.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #555
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Is the kit set up the best way to go? I will run on extremely high traction indoor asphalt.
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