All geometry stuff was kit (so link and shock positions, roll centres etc).
Only changes I made were to use HPI silver springs front and rear, 450wt oil, drilled top cap and only 2mm of rebound (pretty much what I have on the 6).
Think as the traction came up towards the end of the day, should have tried 500wt, and taken back out the 0.5mm I put under the links during the lower traction period.
On the build side, one other thing I noticed (bar the steering drag link...see below), is that if you build the car to the link lengths as described in the manual, you get 1.5° front camber, 2° rear camber, and 0.5° front toe out... which is spot on what I run
Thats a definate first for me and a tamiya kit!
Going back to how to get equal steering L-R, whilst I was setting the car up on Saturday, I played around a fair bit with the steering drag link, and servo sub-trim position, and basically ended up with the following. This give pretty much equal steering L-R (looking at my tranny I have both L and R on 94% EPA, even after the on track check).
- Remove 2mm from the ball cups in stage 8 of the manual (the ones that are built for the 4.5mm link).
- Build the link up so that the total length is 38.5mm (using overall length avoids mis-measurement from the ball cup cutting )
- When you get to stage 25, sub-trim out the servo to the right (cant the top of the horn to the centre of the car) to get the steering centred.
I know the above works for me and the servo I'm using (Spektrum S6040), although it maybe slightly different with different servo's, as they don't all have the same spline positions.
If it's slightly out, have a play with the link length and sub trim... but I've noticed on both the 6 and 7 that shorter seems to get the steering more equal.