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Old 05-04-2013, 07:15 AM   #5221
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
I decided on the v5 because its the latest version

Used to have a xray t3 but just didn't feel right for me. Come from a Tao5 v2 before that which I loved.

Not a fan of using tape for the Lipo. I've seen You can get tamiys
Lipo mount holders. Why would using a Lipo mount cause tweak?
Tape allows the chassis to flex evenly and hold the battery in its place even in a good crash. People who choose to use the battery hold downs usually crank them down and tweak the chassis. This also does not let the chassis flex as well.
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:31 PM   #5222
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so with the tape do you still need the battery stops on either end?
If so, don't the battery stops not allow the chassis to flex also once the battery is between them?

i used to put a very thin layer of foam between the holder & lipo in my old car so it still had a little play. is that ok?

Last edited by rayrush; 05-04-2013 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:43 AM   #5223
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Adjust the screw in one of the battery stops so when a battery is inserted there is around 1.5mm of play to allow the chassis to flex as it should, believe me with tape and the holders the lipo won't be going anywhere
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:31 PM   #5224
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a lot of people mention the RIDE springs, am i better off just buying a couple of pairs, or are they available somewhere as a set? i run both carpet and asphalt
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:55 PM   #5225
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What's a good starting setup for low/Med traction carpet small track 12sec laps
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:51 PM   #5226
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What's a good starting setup for low/Med traction carpet small track 12sec laps
try this setup buddy

use Sorex 40 Tyre too
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Tamiya TRF417-setup-low-2.jpg  
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:06 AM   #5227
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a lot of people mention the RIDE springs, am i better off just buying a couple of pairs, or are they available somewhere as a set? i run both carpet and asphalt
I have both full sets of ride but I've never used half of the rates, you're best to just get the reds. Ride/HPI springs are only for asphalt, use yoke springs for carpet
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:17 PM   #5228
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Guys,

I just built my new 417 v5 recently and am having issues with the gear diff. I've stripped out three (3) sets of gears and I can't quite figure out what to do. I've shimmed it a bunch, not used shims... whatever I do still results in me getting around for a few laps before I hear the dreaded clicking.

Someone recently connected me to the video that Jilles put up explaining how he builds it, so when my gears arrive I will build it this way (with the sanding and shimming of the two main gears). I run modified (4.5) so the stress is a little higher, but still, a kit of this quality should have a gear diff that holds up.

Does anybody have any secrets to tips/tricks to building a bullet-proof gear diff?

Wish me luck on my 4th attempt!
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:24 PM   #5229
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Guys,

I just built my new 417 v5 recently and am having issues with the gear diff. I've stripped out three (3) sets of gears and I can't quite figure out what to do. I've shimmed it a bunch, not used shims... whatever I do still results in me getting around for a few laps before I hear the dreaded clicking.

Someone recently connected me to the video that Jilles put up explaining how he builds it, so when my gears arrive I will build it this way (with the sanding and shimming of the two main gears). I run modified (4.5) so the stress is a little higher, but still, a kit of this quality should have a gear diff that holds up.

Does anybody have any secrets to tips/tricks to building a bullet-proof gear diff?

Wish me luck on my 4th attempt!
http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=4058

might help
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:57 PM   #5230
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Guys,

I just built my new 417 v5 recently and am having issues with the gear diff. I've stripped out three (3) sets of gears and I can't quite figure out what to do. I've shimmed it a bunch, not used shims... whatever I do still results in me getting around for a few laps before I hear the dreaded clicking.

Someone recently connected me to the video that Jilles put up explaining how he builds it, so when my gears arrive I will build it this way (with the sanding and shimming of the two main gears). I run modified (4.5) so the stress is a little higher, but still, a kit of this quality should have a gear diff that holds up.

Does anybody have any secrets to tips/tricks to building a bullet-proof gear diff?

Wish me luck on my 4th attempt!
Your shims have coned. Get TDX shims and make sure the diff screws are tight enough. I run the plastic gears with 4.5 with no issues.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #5231
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Your shims have coned. Get TDX shims and make sure the diff screws are tight enough. I run the plastic gears with 4.5 with no issues.
Craig, where do you get TDX shims from? Also, Sticky, can you post the link to that build video?
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #5232
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:00 AM   #5233
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Hi, looking to get 4 lipos for my 417 v5. I have used smc in the past but would like your input on whats recommended by you guys?

I have seen these http://www.rcmart.com/intellect-iphw...l?cPath=52_973

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:31 AM   #5234
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
Hi, looking to get 4 lipos for my 417 v5. I have used smc in the past but would like your input on whats recommended by you guys?

I have seen these http://www.rcmart.com/intellect-iphw...l?cPath=52_973

Any thoughts?

Great lipos you wont have any issues with them. Some people prefer the bullet connector versions over the deans but that's personal opinion.

HTH's
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:33 AM   #5235
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Guys,

I just built my new 417 v5 recently and am having issues with the gear diff. I've stripped out three (3) sets of gears and I can't quite figure out what to do. I've shimmed it a bunch, not used shims... whatever I do still results in me getting around for a few laps before I hear the dreaded clicking.

Someone recently connected me to the video that Jilles put up explaining how he builds it, so when my gears arrive I will build it this way (with the sanding and shimming of the two main gears). I run modified (4.5) so the stress is a little higher, but still, a kit of this quality should have a gear diff that holds up.

Does anybody have any secrets to tips/tricks to building a bullet-proof gear diff?

Wish me luck on my 4th attempt!
You can also get the steel bevel gear set 54428 on top of the shims.
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