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Old 04-21-2013, 09:07 PM   #5116
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So I am used to using blocks to set droop. I dont see block set ups on any sheets. What is a good starting point for bumpy and loose with this car (V5) droop wise?
Most set ups are for droop set with blocks. 6/5 is standard, for bumpy track start with 5/4
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:43 AM   #5117
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Got a question about batteries for a V5. The most powerful batteries would supply more power but what about the extra weight for the larger lipos?

Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:17 AM   #5118
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Hey guys,How do you know when your running too little camber ? Do you generally not go less than 1.5 rear?
And how do you go about changing your setup lets say on the same track , dependant on weather? From cold to hot vice versa ?
Thanks
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:34 AM   #5119
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
Got a question about batteries for a V5. The most powerful batteries would supply more power but what about the extra weight for the larger lipos?

Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
Not sure about the weight differences between a 5000 and a 6000 but generally, the higher capacity lipo, the longer runtime and ability to maintain higher voltage over time. But, the motor side of the car is generally heavier than the battery side, so you can either move the center battery stopper out to balance everything up, or run a heavier (higher capacity) lipo, keep in mind that most manafacturers over state the capacity of their lipos. Wouldnt go over the top to a 7000 or something like that, stick to 5000-6000. Better to have as a light a car as possible. Given the fact that races are about 6 minutes, no need for extra weight for nothing. Also I see youve used the word "powerfull" all the top manafacturers batteries give generally the same performace, some last longer though. From personal experience there is little to no difference from a 100C 6500 batt to a 6000 60C batt. Most of it is advertising.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:58 AM   #5120
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Is it better to have say a 5000 or less instead of a 6000 lipo which has less weight and balances out the weight distribution better also?
...well, I'd say that depends... Generally speaking you want your car to be as light as possible (within regulations), but also well balanced. I'd personally prefer a well balanced car which is a few grams heavier over a badly balanced lighter car.

I own a variety of Lipos, which differ about 20 grams in weight. I usually use one of the "medium weight" ones to balance the car and leave it at that.

BTW, yesterday I found a nice solution for my new Raceberry chassis, when I reused the 417X belt tensioner as a battery holder and for balance adjustment. Since the Raceberry chassis doesn't allow for the 417X kits center battery holder to be installed (screw hole missing), I searched for a possibility to fix the center alignment of the battery. I took the kits belt tensioner, which is usually installed on the top deck and put it on the lower deck of the chassis. By adding shims (in my case 1.5mm were fit) I can now adjust the centering of the battery to balance the car, additionally to still adjusting belt tension. When adding shims, it's important to add the shims to the outside (screw head side) and use shims that have a smaller outer diameter then the bearings. By this, the bearings stay at the right position and still rotate freely. I also replaced the default 12mm button head screw with a 16mm flat head to make room for the added shim and to have a flat surface facing the battery.

As I noticed, the belt now lighly scrubbed on the lower side of the steering assembly. I put 2mm shims under the steering posts to allow for enough belt clearance, which also makes the steering links more level. That seems to be a good thing to me. I never understood why they were built to be so inclined in the first place... >:-)

Please see the attached images for illustration. Ooops, my car looks so dirty, where's that dammned photoshop...

Christian
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Tamiya TRF417-belttensioner1.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-belttensioner2.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-steeringpost.jpg  
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Last edited by skyball; 04-22-2013 at 06:02 AM. Reason: added joke
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:04 PM   #5121
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ok, so basically is it best to weigh the motor esc etc on that side of the car and get a battery which is closest to that weight for the other side?
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:29 PM   #5122
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ok, so basically is it best to weigh the motor esc etc on that side of the car and get a battery which is closest to that weight for the other side?
No, you better imagine your car as a kind of "playground seesaw" or "teeter-totter" (funny names, found them on wikipedia). Here's a picture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Seesaw-aa.jpg

So, you can balance a car with different weights on the right and left side by moving weights nearer to or further from the longitudinal center, just as you can balance a seesaw if the heavier kid sits nearer to the pivot point.

That said, it's still easiest and best to have approximately the same weight left and right, but with "the usual rc components" you can easily adjust balance by moving the battery further in or out of the chassis center.

That's what I could achieve using different shims on my belt tensioner in my last post. If I change my electronics (servo, receiver, ESC, motor) I can easily regain balance by adjusting my battery position.

Hope that was understandable.

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Old 04-23-2013, 03:09 AM   #5123
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yep, thanks Skyball! But i suppose it is beneficial to initially have a battery with as closest weight to the components so less weights to be added and less mucking around to achieve correct or as close to balance?
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:20 AM   #5124
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
yep, thanks Skyball! But i suppose it is beneficial to initially have a battery with as closest weight to the components so less weights to be added and less mucking around to achieve correct or as close to balance?
You have the right idea but the thing is, the battery even if the same weight as all the electronics, will still need to be adjusted to get even left right balance. It really isnt a neccesity to buy a battery based on that criteria. No weight needs to be added unless the whole car (ready to race with shell on) is underweight.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:25 AM   #5125
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Originally Posted by rayrush View Post
yep, thanks Skyball! But i suppose it is beneficial to initially have a battery with as closest weight to the components so less weights to be added and less mucking around to achieve correct or as close to balance?
...I'd subscribe to that...
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:29 AM   #5126
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Im looking at doing some 17.5 blinky racing can anyone confirm a small spur that fines ok and get get around 3.2 gearing on a 417v5? Never done blinky racing before :-S

Cheers
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:15 AM   #5127
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Originally Posted by Smartypants View Post
Im looking at doing some 17.5 blinky racing can anyone confirm a small spur that fines ok and get get around 3.2 gearing on a 417v5? Never done blinky racing before :-S

Cheers
3.2 seems really low, you want about a 4.00 and work down from there.
I run a 3.88 with about a 90,92,94 64p spur
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:17 PM   #5128
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I have a used raceberry set for sale.

PM if you are interested.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:39 PM   #5129
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I will be at the Reedy Racing Open Modified! This will be my 9th Reedy Race!
Looking to shake the car down this weekend at the NorCal Club race; let you know how it all goes.

Sean W, I'll hit you up soon to get the inside scoop on this new whip!
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:30 AM   #5130
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i've been racing carpet/rubber for about 5 years, and this summer for the first time we're going to be running an ashpalt series (parking lot, swept, light prep, etc...).

I've gotten pretty good at dialing in the setups of my car for my style on carpet, i'm wondering what i can expect as differences on ashpalt. mainly traction, i'm thinking it should go up (we have a cold indoor track, hard tires, 15+ year old carpet) should i get more oversteer/understeer, etc? thanks!
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