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Old 12-31-2010, 05:03 AM   #496
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Originally Posted by carborush View Post
having the same issue on my chassis :
on one arm, tightening the screws like normal, movement is a bit more restricted in the suspention arm

how exactly did you solve this ? i put shims like in the manual... did you just add 1 suspension mount spacer (BA35) orso... ?
won't this affect the cars handling ?

i'll post some pictures lateron showing the savox 1257 rubbing issue
(solved it with cutterknife, sanding paper and some ellbow grease I got like 0,001 cm. to spare now, but no more rubbing...)
mabey the local racer reffered to in previous post has a different savox ? my savox lowprofile 1251 fits with room to spare...)
You have made sure you've got a 0.7 and a 0.1 in the steering, and not a 0.5 and 0.1 shim? subtle difference between the two, but enough to make it bind up!

EDIT - See your problem is with the suspension arm. If it's binding when you tighten the screws up, then the just remove a small amount of material from the wishbone at the hinge pin end. Just run it lightly up and down some sandpaper to free it up.
The spacers should be used anyway, as the car (well the 416 and 415) seem to work best with them in, certainly in the rear.
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Last edited by TryHard; 12-31-2010 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:35 AM   #497
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thanks, ill bring out the sandingpaper again then

does anybody know where to buy the spec-r gear diff ?
can't seem to find any shops that have them in stock?
(can only find the tamiya +20$ one in stock)

Last edited by carborush; 12-31-2010 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:57 AM   #498
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thanks, ill bring out the sandingpaper again then

does anybody know where to buy the spec-r gear diff ?
can't seem to find any shops that have them in stock?
(can only find the tamiya +20$ one in stock)
Spec.R Gear Diff Set for the TRF416/417 in stock now!

On a different note, I was able to fit a small Kimbrough (black) spur gear by adding two holes with a body reamer. Not nearly as scary as I thought it would be. They even provide "circles" to guide you:



I'll try to post pics later!
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:23 AM   #499
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HKS Hobby (in the US) has them as well.

http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=7204
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:02 AM   #500
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Default Carpet setup

What are people doing for indoor carpet setups? Is anyone using the stock kit setup i.e 40 wt shock oil, sway bars, roll centers? If so are what changes are you making?? Has anyone transferred their old 416X setups over to the 417??

Sorry for all the silly questions it's been a long time since I've raced a Tamiya sedan so it would be awesome if anyone could provide setup information.

Cheers.

Edward Pickering

ps. Running APS28R's
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:14 PM   #501
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What are people doing for indoor carpet setups? Is anyone using the stock kit setup i.e 40 wt shock oil, sway bars, roll centers? If so are what changes are you making?? Has anyone transferred their old 416X setups over to the 417??

Sorry for all the silly questions it's been a long time since I've raced a Tamiya sedan so it would be awesome if anyone could provide setup information.

Cheers.

Edward Pickering

ps. Running APS28R's
I'm hoping to try my 416X setup on the 417 this week if all goes well. I can't imagine it won't transfer pretty well, the cars really don't seem all that different aside from the narrower bulkheads. Most of the updates are convenience/durability related, best I can tell. I sure wish they would have fixed the LiPo hooks so they don't flop around, though.
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:52 PM   #502
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I sure wish they would have fixed the LiPo hooks so they don't flop around, though.
Use some shoe goo, they will be nice and stable.
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Old 01-01-2011, 02:18 PM   #503
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If anyone in the uk wants to sell their kit ball diff (because they intend to use a gear diff) please let me know as I am after one.

Cheers
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Old 01-01-2011, 02:23 PM   #504
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Use some shoe goo, they will be nice and stable.

I don't know how you guys are having issues with the LIPO mounts. I installed per manual and it would take a hammer to move them.

I am also looking for a TRF417 Kit ball diff setup... Anyone want to sell, send me a PM.
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:19 PM   #505
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The front one moves forward after nearly any impact no matter how tight you make it. The screws are too close together. The AE TC6 got it right. Tamiyas solution sucks.
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:52 PM   #506
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Do any of you use the Tamiya TRF blue o-rings? Item 42137?

I started using them this last time out and my shocks leaked a lot. So after my first rebuild with them I used a 4x0.2mm shim under it and they are better but still leak more than the kit o-ring.

Which o ring does everyone use from MuchMore? Do those also leak? Are the muchmore o-rings worthwhile to use?
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:13 PM   #507
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Do any of you use the Tamiya TRF blue o-rings? Item 42137?

I started using them this last time out and my shocks leaked a lot. So after my first rebuild with them I used a 4x0.2mm shim under it and they are better but still leak more than the kit o-ring.

Which o ring does everyone use from MuchMore? Do those also leak? Are the muchmore o-rings worthwhile to use?

I use the stock O-Ring.. but before installing.. I let them sit in this lube covered for about 20 minutes and then install them:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42129

they are leak free and super smooth.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:44 AM   #508
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Regarding the carpet setup, Elliott said this to me;

Quote:
I think kit setup will be good yeah, but we use 4mm rear wheelbase shim, 450 shock oil and if the traction is not super high, 4.5 front camber link shim and 3.5 rear.
Generally on Carpet I prefer to use the ball diff with the Gear diff on Asphalt
Had my first run with the 417 today, gotta say (bar the typical new car niggles), was very impressed... even using completely the wrong tyre for the temperature, and still getting used to driving a 3.5t
Felt very consistent, with a lot of steering, but stable too. Tried a few little things to help the car, and felt all the changes. Ran the ball diff all day (for about 8 runs), and it feels fine still.

Anyway, a few more observations on other bits about the car I've noticed during building.
The bulkhead caps are higher (hence less shims to get the link in the same place), such that you can run the diff/spool in the high position without having to dremel the tops for clearance
The new steering being lower allows for more lock, as the servo horn doesn't hit the steering cross brace as on the 6.

Anyway, certainly become more convinced about the improvements Tam have made on this car. Like I said before, it's in the details

Ed
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:24 AM   #509
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
The bulkhead caps are higher (hence less shims to get the link in the same place), such that you can run the diff/spool in the high position without having to dremel the tops for clearance
Any idea how much higher?

I've got my 417 built up for boosted 17.5, and ready for testing on Tuesday. The 416X is going to be setup for mod. :-O
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:58 PM   #510
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Any idea how much higher?

I've got my 417 built up for boosted 17.5, and ready for testing on Tuesday. The 416X is going to be setup for mod. :-O
Not measured it (might try to this afternoon when rebuilding), but at a guess I'd say 1mm, given the 1mm less under the camber links versus the 6

Edit - Checked just now, the camber link positions are 0.5mm higher than on the 6, mainly due to more material. The bottom of the bulkhead caps are actually in the same position, they just have more material removed for better clearence if you run the axles in the high position . Top deck however is raised 1mm (a la shimming it like on the 6), and the caps also have more material under the shock towers... details

Ed
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Last edited by TryHard; 01-02-2011 at 11:59 PM.
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