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Old 03-29-2013, 11:39 AM   #4981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxgregg View Post
How do you figure out the FDR? I always thought you divided the spur gear by the pinion size?
Close, it's spur divided by pinion multiplied by the transmission ratio of the car (1.94 for the 417 chassis).

So for Joey's example it would be 90/43 * 1.94 = 4.06 FDR
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:42 AM   #4982
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Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:21 PM   #4983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
You are well undergeared, a 17.5 in blinky mode needs to be between the low 4's and the low 3's overall depending on track, you are at 8:1 or so.
I ran the tekin with a fantom motor and i was able to get down to a 3.88 fdr
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:21 PM   #4984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
You are well undergeared, a 17.5 in blinky mode needs to be between the low 4's and the low 3's overall depending on track, you are at 8:1 or so.
I ran the tekin with a fantom motor and i was able to get down to a 3.88 fdr in 17.5
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:28 PM   #4985
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Dingsky, I use 64p spur gears in either 92 or 96 tooth sizes from RW Racing usually for both 21.5 and 17.5 classes.

You mount the fan behind the motor on the chassis using double sided tape or shoe goo. Both are durable and easy to remove. You can run the wire to an empty port on your receiver and the fan will turn on automatically when you switch on your Tekin ESC.

Motor timing is changed (advanced) by loosening the motor end plate screws and rotating the sensor plate counter clockwise. Have an experienced racer at your track help you with that.

Have a look at this picture to see how the ball cups are drilled out allowing access to the broached hex in the ball stud.
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Tamiya TRF417-front-pulley.jpg  
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:24 PM   #4986
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the 98 sper i have is made by hpi its called lsx1i can send a pic if you need it.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:34 PM   #4987
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Hi Guys
I thought I'd let you know I've been running ratios of approx 3.5 to 4.25.
I run the Tamiya 0.4 gearing. To do this I've been using a Spur Gear kit from the TB Evo series. You could try this.

Item #50978 - TB Evo. Spur Gear - (90T/96T)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50978

The only modification is that I drill 2 extra holes for the extra centre shaft drive pins.
I hope this helps
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:00 PM   #4988
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Has anyone done the bd7 motor mount swap and written down the bits needed. I can see Id need th motor mount, layshaft mount, layshaft but dunno what else
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:35 AM   #4989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
Has anyone done the bd7 motor mount swap and written down the bits needed. I can see Id need th motor mount, layshaft mount, layshaft but dunno what else
Search up raceberry, they make a conversion kit including all the yokomo parts needed and a new chassis plate and top deck to accomodate for the yokomo parts.
To buy separate yokomo parts and do a retro fit wont work to well as you'll need to drill your own holes in your existing chassis to make everything fit and get a top deck made or retrofit a yokomo one.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:44 PM   #4990
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You guys think the 418 will be next? I know Tamiya is busy winning world championships, but it would be nice if they came out with a car that worked on carpet like the 16 did.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:36 PM   #4991
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Today was the first day I used the standard tamiya shocks from the aeration ones and I have to say I was pretty impressed.

I definitely feel confident in saying that I feel that even though I set them up the same way with same pistons and same weight of shock oil the difference was more noticeable than I thought it would be.

Another piece I changed out was to the Acer ceramic bearing kit and holy cow the car freed up a ton. It will be interesting to see how the car performs during the TCS race locally here.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:42 PM   #4992
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Anybody have a good carpet setup using sweep QTS 32 for the TRF417x? Probably medium-high grip track
Thanks
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:22 AM   #4993
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When you're de-tweaking the car after a race, whats the best loosening and then tightening order of the parts, (eg. Topdeck, then shock towers, upper clamp, bulkhead from underneath...)
Also, what are the differences when mounting the motor in the north/south holes or the east/west holes?
HPI springs are the most polular on ashpault with the tamiya, but I also see people use ride and yokomo springs, in what situation would you know to chnage spring brands? Or is it simply trial and error to find the best feel /laptime?
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:04 AM   #4994
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-I actually back out all the top deck, shock tower and top bulk head screws. And let the graphite rest between races. Then, the morning of the race. I retighten. On a flat surface. Start front or back side, it doesn't matter. Tighten the bulk head first. Then all the screws on that side (except) the shock tower. Then repeat the other side. Now the shock towers.
-Regarding motor mounting holes. They just made it easier to install the motors by giving us more than one option for installation. There's zero advantage either way.
-springs, pistons and shock oil are always trial and error.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:34 PM   #4995
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what Tamiya part is used by the factory riders as the battery stopper
in the front & rear
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