Tamiya TRF417
#4985
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Dingsky, I use 64p spur gears in either 92 or 96 tooth sizes from RW Racing usually for both 21.5 and 17.5 classes.
You mount the fan behind the motor on the chassis using double sided tape or shoe goo. Both are durable and easy to remove. You can run the wire to an empty port on your receiver and the fan will turn on automatically when you switch on your Tekin ESC.
Motor timing is changed (advanced) by loosening the motor end plate screws and rotating the sensor plate counter clockwise. Have an experienced racer at your track help you with that.
Have a look at this picture to see how the ball cups are drilled out allowing access to the broached hex in the ball stud.
You mount the fan behind the motor on the chassis using double sided tape or shoe goo. Both are durable and easy to remove. You can run the wire to an empty port on your receiver and the fan will turn on automatically when you switch on your Tekin ESC.
Motor timing is changed (advanced) by loosening the motor end plate screws and rotating the sensor plate counter clockwise. Have an experienced racer at your track help you with that.
Have a look at this picture to see how the ball cups are drilled out allowing access to the broached hex in the ball stud.
#4986
the 98 sper i have is made by hpi its called lsx1i can send a pic if you need it.
#4987
Hi Guys
I thought I'd let you know I've been running ratios of approx 3.5 to 4.25.
I run the Tamiya 0.4 gearing. To do this I've been using a Spur Gear kit from the TB Evo series. You could try this.
Item #50978 - TB Evo. Spur Gear - (90T/96T)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50978
The only modification is that I drill 2 extra holes for the extra centre shaft drive pins.
I hope this helps
I thought I'd let you know I've been running ratios of approx 3.5 to 4.25.
I run the Tamiya 0.4 gearing. To do this I've been using a Spur Gear kit from the TB Evo series. You could try this.
Item #50978 - TB Evo. Spur Gear - (90T/96T)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50978
The only modification is that I drill 2 extra holes for the extra centre shaft drive pins.
I hope this helps
#4988
Tech Regular
Has anyone done the bd7 motor mount swap and written down the bits needed. I can see Id need th motor mount, layshaft mount, layshaft but dunno what else
#4989
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
To buy separate yokomo parts and do a retro fit wont work to well as you'll need to drill your own holes in your existing chassis to make everything fit and get a top deck made or retrofit a yokomo one.
#4991
Tech Master
iTrader: (59)
Today was the first day I used the standard tamiya shocks from the aeration ones and I have to say I was pretty impressed.
I definitely feel confident in saying that I feel that even though I set them up the same way with same pistons and same weight of shock oil the difference was more noticeable than I thought it would be.
Another piece I changed out was to the Acer ceramic bearing kit and holy cow the car freed up a ton. It will be interesting to see how the car performs during the TCS race locally here.
I definitely feel confident in saying that I feel that even though I set them up the same way with same pistons and same weight of shock oil the difference was more noticeable than I thought it would be.
Another piece I changed out was to the Acer ceramic bearing kit and holy cow the car freed up a ton. It will be interesting to see how the car performs during the TCS race locally here.
#4992
Anybody have a good carpet setup using sweep QTS 32 for the TRF417x? Probably medium-high grip track
Thanks
Thanks
#4993
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
When you're de-tweaking the car after a race, whats the best loosening and then tightening order of the parts, (eg. Topdeck, then shock towers, upper clamp, bulkhead from underneath...)
Also, what are the differences when mounting the motor in the north/south holes or the east/west holes?
HPI springs are the most polular on ashpault with the tamiya, but I also see people use ride and yokomo springs, in what situation would you know to chnage spring brands? Or is it simply trial and error to find the best feel /laptime?
Also, what are the differences when mounting the motor in the north/south holes or the east/west holes?
HPI springs are the most polular on ashpault with the tamiya, but I also see people use ride and yokomo springs, in what situation would you know to chnage spring brands? Or is it simply trial and error to find the best feel /laptime?
#4994
Tech Master
-I actually back out all the top deck, shock tower and top bulk head screws. And let the graphite rest between races. Then, the morning of the race. I retighten. On a flat surface. Start front or back side, it doesn't matter. Tighten the bulk head first. Then all the screws on that side (except) the shock tower. Then repeat the other side. Now the shock towers.
-Regarding motor mounting holes. They just made it easier to install the motors by giving us more than one option for installation. There's zero advantage either way.
-springs, pistons and shock oil are always trial and error.
-Regarding motor mounting holes. They just made it easier to install the motors by giving us more than one option for installation. There's zero advantage either way.
-springs, pistons and shock oil are always trial and error.
#4995
Tech Adept
what Tamiya part is used by the factory riders as the battery stopper
in the front & rear
in the front & rear