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Old 03-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #4891
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Thank you very, very much Robert.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:06 PM   #4892
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Default Raceberry Conversion

What advantage or how is this conversion different from the chassis in the V5?
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:12 PM   #4893
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The answer is 2 pages back...

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyball View Post
I also wondered where those raceberry parts would be from, so I searched a bit and found out that "RACEBERRY - luxury RC auxiliaries" is indeed a new german manufacturer of rc upgrade parts. So I contacted Bernd Wellerdiek who is the founder and engineer behind that company and asked him about their Tamiya upgrades.

He was very helpful and told me that they would soon release a TRF417 conversion kit, consisting mainly of their own carbon chassis (upper and lower deck) plus some Yokomo parts (motormount, center bulkhead...). The (complete) conversion kit and probably other parts will be distributed by Toni Reinhards shop (http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonisport). The product description should be up on their website soon.

When I asked Bernd about some technical details on the raceberry chassis, he told me (rough translation): "The lower deck has a quite similar shape as the original 417V5 chassis, but it uses a different carbon structure, just like the top deck. The top deck features a very different shape and is a completely new and original development. The main problem with the original model is, that it doesn't produce enough mechanical grip. Our conversion kit features more flex in the area of the front as well as at the rear axle. Further we defined narrower flexzones, which makes the car work more exact..."

Sounds quite promising to me and they already have delivered. Gilles Groskamp used their chassis at TITC, Victor Wilck and Marc Reinhard had it at the ETS in Gran Canaria. All of them with great success, which seemed a bit unusual for Tamiya recently.

A website is in the making, but not quite ready. In the meantime you can contact Bernd via email at raceberry(at)web.de or contact Tonisport for a preorder.

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Old 03-13-2013, 08:49 PM   #4894
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Is it possible to use the race berry conversion on the 417x?
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:01 PM   #4895
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Originally Posted by nolo148 View Post
Is it possible to use the race berry conversion on the 417x?
Yea it should work, just might need to use .5mm shims under all of the main bulkheads if the top deck dosent clear the layshaft mount, and also you wil need the new servo mount.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:21 AM   #4896
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Default 417 V5 kit and accessories arrived

Hi guys,

got the stuff last week and few more came in yesterday, want to share it with you guys. I'm really new to RC and you might probably notice it from the post.

so yeah, excited and took photo of the stuff and start building the gear diff.

so first thing i asked my self, do i use the steel bevel or the suppied plastic...I ended up with the plastic bevel.

First problem I encountered, i put 3 pieces of 0.1mm shims in the long side of gear diff - ok, but on the short side, i couldnt even put the pin to lock the shims.
so I removed 1 0.1mm shim but when i put it together i can barely rotate the joint, so i sanded the outer part of the gear diff to loosen it a bit. All good.

I put 1300 kyosho oil and put the gasket, and when i was putting the 2 pieces together, I couldnt drive the screws with a 1.5mm hudy wrench (I bought ultimate set which is different from what i am selling in trade section). I tried the allen wrench supplied with the kit, but it was so tough doing it, i think i have actually scratched the screws. But seems to be good, now the question is, i dont know the feel of a properly assembled gear diff, how the play is and what not. I have attached some photos and I welcome any comments and suggestion that you guys can give to me, thank you.

Oh btw, I used the XXX kit to paint the body, it was so fun, i Hope it didnt look too cheesy
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF417-417-v5-accessories.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-steel-bevel-plastic.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-gear-diff.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-gear-diff-3-shims.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-gear-diff-final-assembly.jpg  


Last edited by dingsky; 03-14-2013 at 01:23 AM. Reason: add more message
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:17 AM   #4897
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With plastic gears the diff should feel smooth right from the start. If it feels a tiny bit "geary" that's ok, if it feels tight/notchy then the mesh is too close and you need to sand the back of the gears.

There should be about 1mm of backlash, i.e. when you hold one outdrive you can move the other outdrive side to side by about 1-2mm.

With the metal gears the backlash should feel the same but the mesh will feel a bit gritty until the diff is run in
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:11 AM   #4898
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Here is my setup (v5) from last weekend's ACT Titles. I was able to TQ the event but the finals did not go well and I finished 3rd overall. The event was ruled by tyres, the control Sweep evo 36 dropped off by 0.5s or more after 5-6 laps and the glue job was flimsy which caused a lot of tyre failures. Fortunately for me I did not have any failures, and my car was also very easy on tyres which meant my car was still fast at the end of the first run and especially on second run tyres.

A few notes about the setup:

- On 2nd run tyres I used aeration dampers with MM400 shock oil
- I ran a grub screw in the front motor mount hole like Viktor at the GC ETS

Normally I wouldn't run the car this narrow, but on this track with these tyres it seemed to work nicely
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF417-craig-m-trf417v5-setup-act-titles-20130310.jpg  
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:20 AM   #4899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
- On 2nd run tyres I used aeration dampers with MM400 shock oil
- I ran a grub screw in the front motor mount hole like Viktor at the GC ETS

Normally I wouldn't run the car this narrow, but on this track with these tyres it seemed to work nicely
Craig - car looked really good. I did my usual "put it on the track and drive" trick and I was quite happy with it. Only spannering I did was when one of the screws holding the rear/rear suspension block fell out and I lost all the spacers from the left-hand rear arm over some part of the track

Would you recommend the standard TRF shocks for normal duties and only switch to the aeration ones when grip is poor?

What's the purpose of putting the grub screw in the motor mount?

Luckily, we didn't have the same tyre issues in stock, other than the huge difference from first run to third run.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:34 AM   #4900
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I searched "spurs" and only found tidbits of info...

What brand spurs are direct fit for the 417x? Xenon with added spacers or something? Kimbrough? Looking for spurs to run 17.5 or 21.5 so around 96T.
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:44 AM   #4901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
I searched "spurs" and only found tidbits of info...

What brand spurs are direct fit for the 417x? Xenon with added spacers or something? Kimbrough? Looking for spurs to run 17.5 or 21.5 so around 96T.
I have seen Kimbrough used before, I use the PRS (Precision Racing Systems) Pro-Lite gears in 92 or 96 without the spacer or the RW Racing 92t "Xray Series" with the stock Tamiya spacer for both 21.5 & 17.5. You will however have to either drill two more holes in these gears for the 4 pins of the center pulley to go through, or just cut off two of the pins from only one of the pulleys and you are set.

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3446

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=1725
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:38 PM   #4902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS LS1 View Post
I have seen Kimbrough used before, I use the PRS (Precision Racing Systems) Pro-Lite gears in 92 or 96 without the spacer or the RW Racing 92t "Xray Series" with the stock Tamiya spacer for both 21.5 & 17.5. You will however have to either drill two more holes in these gears for the 4 pins of the center pulley to go through, or just cut off two of the pins from only one of the pulleys and you are set.

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3446

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=1725
Rw spurs are a direct fit for the 417. Just buy the supalite V2 spurs. I run them on my 417's with the kit spacer.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:48 PM   #4903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Here is my setup (v5) from last weekend's ACT Titles. I was able to TQ the event but the finals did not go well and I finished 3rd overall. The event was ruled by tyres, the control Sweep evo 36 dropped off by 0.5s or more after 5-6 laps and the glue job was flimsy which caused a lot of tyre failures. Fortunately for me I did not have any failures, and my car was also very easy on tyres which meant my car was still fast at the end of the first run and especially on second run tyres.

A few notes about the setup:

- On 2nd run tyres I used aeration dampers with MM400 shock oil
- I ran a grub screw in the front motor mount hole like Viktor at the GC ETS

Normally I wouldn't run the car this narrow, but on this track with these tyres it seemed to work nicely
Hi craig where you cut the top deck?
Did you feel difference between aeretion and standard shocks
PS compliment for your TQ
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:49 PM   #4904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Craig - car looked really good. I did my usual "put it on the track and drive" trick and I was quite happy with it. Only spannering I did was when one of the screws holding the rear/rear suspension block fell out and I lost all the spacers from the left-hand rear arm over some part of the track

Would you recommend the standard TRF shocks for normal duties and only switch to the aeration ones when grip is poor?

What's the purpose of putting the grub screw in the motor mount?

Luckily, we didn't have the same tyre issues in stock, other than the huge difference from first run to third run.
99% of the time I use the normal HL dampers because I find them more consistent and don't have to be rebuilt as frequently. The aeration shocks provide a little more traction which was good on used tyres

The grub screw lets the motor mount flex more helping with on power grip

Quote:
Originally Posted by NItrox416
Hi craig where you cut the top deck?
Did you feel difference between aeretion and standard shocks
PS compliment for your TQ
Thanks!

The top deck was cut at the front from the "Y" to the hole above the steering rack. It made the car smoother in the high speed chicane. After trying it I think I will always run my top deck cut from now on
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:17 PM   #4905
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Any spur that fits the top photon will fit the 417
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