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Old 03-06-2013, 01:50 PM   #4846
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Hi Lads, I am currently selling my 417x on ebay - cant post url but search 'Tamiya 417x' - I will post worldwide.

The is a very reluctant sale but due to unforseen circumstances I have been left with no choice. The car is in top condition and has been well looked after.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:52 PM   #4847
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More of a general Tamiya setup question (this thread is far more active than the 415 one), but what's the different between running the ball connector on the outside hole of the rear upright compared to the inner hole?

Currently I have my Tamiya setup with the ball connector on the inside hole, but notice that the 417 in kit setup and a lot of the setups posted in this thread use the outside hole.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:30 PM   #4848
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Has anyone run the bulkheads on a 417x raised by 0.5mm like the v5 and felt an improvement in the car?
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:37 AM   #4849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap View Post
More of a general Tamiya setup question (this thread is far more active than the 415 one), but what's the different between running the ball connector on the outside hole of the rear upright compared to the inner hole?

Currently I have my Tamiya setup with the ball connector on the inside hole, but notice that the 417 in kit setup and a lot of the setups posted in this thread use the outside hole.
Well moving to the inner or outer ball connectors on your bulkheads / rear hubs changes your camber link length.

In general having a short camber link increases the camber gain that the wheel/tyre moves through as the suspension compresses. This gives better rotation entering a turn and more traction coming out of the turn.

Think of it as when entering the corner how the cars weight transfers and the suspension compresses in a corner, the increased camber angle of the tire will increase the camber on the heavily loaded outside tyre (providing lateral thrust). The tyre will have less rubber on the road and more cornering capacity when you add camber gain.

Conversely a longer camber link using the outer hole on the hub / inner hole on the bulkhead will decrease camber gain, which can make the car feel lazy and less reactive, giving the car a more stable feel. This is usually a good way to stop traction rolling, or to calm a car down.

Obviously there are lots of other things that can effect the cornering of the car such as Tyres, Springs and oil primarily.

But to sum it up briefly

Short camber link gives more positive camber gain, giving more turn in and rotation, and good traction out of a corner, although the car can feel very twitchy

Long camber links give little to negative camber gain making the car feel a bit more stable but less reactive in corners
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:48 AM   #4850
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Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
Hi Craig,
I need your precious help,
I run the trf417x in a small technical asphalt track with blinky 13.5, smokem fx chassis, on solaris medium. My car is very hard to drive and the only way to get tires in temperature is to go with four tamiya white spring, despite this in the two in line left-right of the track I always lose my rear end.
The only changes I've done from kit setup are 1B-1B in front with 0.5 anti-dive and 1XB-1D in the rear and I've rised the bulkheads of .5mm, so like the v5. In which way can I solve the oversteer?
Do you think I have to get a stiffer chassis?
Thank you for help.
Whats it like on new tyres? also what droops and shock positions are you running?
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:05 AM   #4851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
Has anyone run the bulkheads on a 417x raised by 0.5mm like the v5 and felt an improvement in the car?
I have tried it and I felt a slight improvement in cornering speed especially in fast-medium range corners with the car more stable and accurate.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:14 AM   #4852
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I also found B/B can make the car taily in chicanes. Lately I've been running wider at the front, D/D, and I haven't been using anti-dive as much.

Tamiya whites are an OK spring but I prefer Ride or HPI. To help get your tyres into the right operating temperature try different additives and higher temps on your warmers (~70c). If that doesn't work go lighter shock oil and a harder spring.

Also, your chassis is fine. In general I think people are way too quick to change carbon when their issues can more easily be solved with setup
Ok thank you I will try returning to c/c in front, I think that b/b are fine with wide tracks because the car react well but maybe too much for chicanes
@ Qatmix, I will try it but running with ride purple in front and red in rear, in this track, it seems like the end having the harder spring generate more grip, I found it difficult to understand. Somebody knows why?
Thanks for help
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:04 AM   #4853
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Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
Has anyone run the bulkheads on a 417x raised by 0.5mm like the v5 and felt an improvement in the car?
Where is the .5mm shim put?
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:23 AM   #4854
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Between the bulkheads and chassis plate and between motor mount/layshaft mount and chassis i beleive.

I should notice quite a difference if i lift the bulkheads at the same time as i put the smokem mx chassis and trf v5 top deck on i hope
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:40 AM   #4855
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Originally Posted by scytherat View Post
Between the bulkheads and chassis plate and between motor mount/layshaft mount and chassis i beleive.

I should notice quite a difference if i lift the bulkheads at the same time as i put the smokem mx chassis and trf v5 top deck on i hope
Yes you are correct thought I haven't rise up the whole motor mount but I have put the shim between topdeck and layshaft.
I wait anxiously a comment on your modifications because I want to do the same
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:19 AM   #4856
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Should be In the next couple Of weeks when the parts arrive
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #4857
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Has anyone used the cso 417x Shock towers? My brother is thinking of some for his 417. Should he just get regular x ones instead?
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:27 PM   #4858
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Has anyone used the cso 417x Shock towers? My brother is thinking of some for his 417. Should he just get regular x ones instead?
Recommend buying TAMIYA. CSO fiber is not great.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:28 PM   #4859
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Ready for some action.

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Old 03-07-2013, 02:20 PM   #4860
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Quote:
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Ready for some action.
Joey, a question and a comment....... I see you mounted your RX and ESC toward the front of the car. Wouldn't you want it toward the back to speed up corner rotation?

You fan will move more air if you move it back another 5-8mm from the motor can. The fan output will be somewhat stalled being that close to the motor IMO.

Nice car!
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