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Old 12-28-2010, 08:10 PM   #466
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Does anybody makes weights or something we can stick to flat packs to help keep them in place? Something that'll match the cutouts in the chassis of the 416/417. I want to ditch the "hooks."
i just cut out some left over lexan and taped them to the lipo packs...

removed the hooks myself as they easily get misaligned when i hit the boards....
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:47 PM   #467
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My friend used to secure the battery on his 416 using an old piece of rubber about 1/4 inch thick, cut to the size of the slots and stuck to the bottom of the battery, kept it pretty secure with the tape aswell.

Can anyone please suggest a good sized pinion to start with, I'm running a GT Pro with 17.5T V3 motor on a reasonably tight track with a 30m back straight. Are there a few pinion sizes you should generally have?

thanks
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:03 AM   #468
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Anyone knows which US shop carries Tamiya Aluminum Air Duct 3454480? Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:34 AM   #469
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Congrats on the new car Ed, are you going to blog the build on your site.

Rhys

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What a great suprise... walk past the security gate at work this morning, and get handed a huge parcel... my 417 is here
Shame I now have to do a full days work before I can even go home to start building, although I do have a tickle in my throat...
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:31 AM   #470
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Cheers for the tape info guys. I've got some on order (although I am hoping a carbon strap becomes available soon.

Does anywhere have the parts for the ball diff available yet? I don't want a one way as I race on a very small technical circuit so brakes are quite useful.

Oh, and are there any other parts that are recommended for the build? I assume it has the coated susp shafts etc included at the new higher price they charge.
Main two upgrade parts I would suggest... 42mm Ti turnbuckles for the steering (the alloy ones will bend), and 46mm steel front driveshafts (don't bend, and look after spool cups better). Thats it

Annoyingly, I got home last night and started on my car, and that tickly cough I mentioned actually developed into a nice bug of some kind... so the whole of today I've spent in bed!

Out of the bits I've done so far though... the new Diff is very nice. Was a little unsure on the new thrust race (small balls and big fingers = problems), but built mine up as kit with ceramic balls, and it feels very smooth and free in the car already I'll first run the car with it anyway, as the X has my SpecR gear diff atm.

The centre pulleys are top. Again, was a little worried about the metals pulleys, namely as the last time I ran some in the 415, they would tend to bend and deform over time, as they were only an extrusion. Don;t see that happening with these, as the teeth seem pretty solid when looking through one of the gaps.
Not needing any screws to hold the spur is a genius idea, and the motor mount is a great idea (no more worrying if one side is out of alignment with the other).

Steering is good, lower and using less shims for ackerman

Overall so far impressed, some well thought out refinements to the previous cars... now to get over this cold and finish building it!

Ed
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:24 AM   #471
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Oh, and are there any other parts that are recommended for the build? I assume it has the coated susp shafts etc included at the new higher price they charge.
Definitely the two things Ed suggested are the most important. I also like to use the steel ball studs in the camber link positions, and at least on the 416, the kingpin style studs on the inside links of the steering rack. I also add a Parma T2 bumper and the Square c-hubs for durability.


Regarding the LiPo hooks, it's looking like maybe 1mm wheel shims taped or shoo goo'd to the bottom of packs might help keep them located in the slots. I don't like the hooks, they take away from the sleek appearance of the car, and they seem to move during a run no matter how I tighten them.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:16 PM   #472
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Definitely the two things Ed suggested are the most important. I also like to use the steel ball studs in the camber link positions, and at least on the 416, the kingpin style studs on the inside links of the steering rack. I also add a Parma T2 bumper and the Square c-hubs for durability.


Regarding the LiPo hooks, it's looking like maybe 1mm wheel shims taped or shoo goo'd to the bottom of packs might help keep them located in the slots. I don't like the hooks, they take away from the sleek appearance of the car, and they seem to move during a run no matter how I tighten them.
Agree there is too much movement even when tight, during a standard run.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:18 PM   #473
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I've recently acquired a used lipo 416x and raced it for the first time today. My first TRF. This car has a sublime balance. So smooth yet also so precise.

This is the car for my driving style, flowing.

I've also got a T3'11 in the box which I can return in part exchange for a 417.

So, will the 417 really be much better?

Indoors I have noticed, at least, as the grip comes up at big meetings, the xray comes into a new level and is really, really fast. The fastest car out there it seems.

Opinions?
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:41 PM   #474
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just finished building my new 417 was wondering if anyone noticed the option springs that come with the car? on the bag mine came in, it says to use the blues in the front and the whites in the back for carpet racing..... are these all together different springs? or are they the same whites and blues that we have been using for years? if they are the same, should the whites go in the front?
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Old 12-29-2010, 03:41 PM   #475
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Originally Posted by TEAM BURN View Post
just finished building my new 417 was wondering if anyone noticed the option springs that come with the car? on the bag mine came in, it says to use the blues in the front and the whites in the back for carpet racing..... are these all together different springs? or are they the same whites and blues that we have been using for years? if they are the same, should the whites go in the front?
I did notice that. The seem to be the exact same white/blue springs we have been using. I put them in with the normal white F and blue R setup.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:07 AM   #476
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anyone trying to fit a savox 1257 or 1258 servo in the 417 ?
in mine the servo cap hits the steering arm bb21 just slightly, but enough to hold back the arm.
any suggestions someone ? dremmel something ?
(already peeled of the orange "logo" from the savox but the bevelled edge around it still rubs the arm)

Last edited by carborush; 12-30-2010 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:15 AM   #477
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Originally Posted by carborush View Post
anyone trying to fit a savox 1257 or 1258 servo in the 417 ?
in mine the servo cap hits the steering arm bb21 just slightly, but enough to hold back the arm.
any suggestions someone ? dremmel something ?
(already peeled of the orange "logo" from the savox but the bevelled edge around it still rubs the arm)
Sounds like a bit of dremelling the case is required
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:40 AM   #478
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http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...f417/index.htm

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Wheel axle included in the TRF417 kit has an Axle Ring and therefore the shape of the rear upright has been modified. When using 51333 TRF416 E Parts (Rear Upright), there may be cases in which the Axle Ring may come into contact with Rear Upright. If so, remove material for clearance.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:35 AM   #479
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I did notice that. The seem to be the exact same white/blue springs we have been using. I put them in with the normal white F and blue R setup.
HA! i read 32 pages of posts to see if anyone noticed that!! thanks for clearing that up! anyone got a link to a good carpet setup?
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:46 PM   #480
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HA! i read 32 pages of posts to see if anyone noticed that!! thanks for clearing that up! anyone got a link to a good carpet setup?
try jilles 2010 snowbird
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