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Old 01-17-2013, 06:26 AM   #4591
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Riddle me this fellow 417er's...

I have been racing the original 417 for about 2 years in a 17.5 blinky class. The track I run at requires around a 4.0 fdr. Because of this high gearing, the motor tends to get pretty hot after a normal race. I have always had to run a fan on the motor.

I bought the 417v5 and have raced 3 friday night club races now. I have not had to use a fan. The same exact motor, speedo, battery, fdr, body, etc. My motor always comes off at around 145 degrees.

I actually had a acer ceramic bearing set on the original 417, and found nothing binding in the drive train to explain the motor running hot. If anything, I would think the new 417v5 would make the motor run hot before the belts and bearings got broke in.

I'm not complaining, just can't figure out why this is happening. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:54 AM   #4592
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Just got my 417V5 built, any suggestions for an blinky mode 17.5T motor on a med grip asphalt track? I've built the car as per the kit instructions. I've seen the Japanese drivers setup sheets on petite rc, are they a good starting point? Thanks
I built my car as per the kit manual and ran it last weekend for the first time on similar track conditions, except the track temp was super cold. The kit setup was awesome! I only really ended up going to a slightly stiffer spring in the front and then moved the rear shock position in one hole.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:58 AM   #4593
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Originally Posted by TamiyaMatt84 View Post
Riddle me this fellow 417er's...

I have been racing the original 417 for about 2 years in a 17.5 blinky class. The track I run at requires around a 4.0 fdr. Because of this high gearing, the motor tends to get pretty hot after a normal race. I have always had to run a fan on the motor.

I bought the 417v5 and have raced 3 friday night club races now. I have not had to use a fan. The same exact motor, speedo, battery, fdr, body, etc. My motor always comes off at around 145 degrees.

I actually had a acer ceramic bearing set on the original 417, and found nothing binding in the drive train to explain the motor running hot. If anything, I would think the new 417v5 would make the motor run hot before the belts and bearings got broke in.

I'm not complaining, just can't figure out why this is happening. Any thoughts?
Do you check the weight of the two cars?
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:01 AM   #4594
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Hi guys,
somebody knows when tamiya will release the new parts of trf417v5 in particular the new upper e lower deck as option for the standard 417x.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:16 PM   #4595
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is it possible to upgrade the 417 to the v5? bought the CSO world edition conversion but after reading previous posts, some said the bulkheads are slightly higher. Do any of you know exactly how many mm it is?
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:59 PM   #4596
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Originally Posted by Stryder View Post
is it possible to upgrade the 417 to the v5? bought the CSO world edition conversion but after reading previous posts, some said the bulkheads are slightly higher. Do any of you know exactly how many mm it is?
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:08 AM   #4597
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I think u have to raise the bulkheads buy 0,5 mm to have the same high on the 417x as the 417v5
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:42 AM   #4598
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Originally Posted by Stryder View Post
is it possible to upgrade the 417 to the v5? bought the CSO world edition conversion but after reading previous posts, some said the bulkheads are slightly higher. Do any of you know exactly how many mm it is?
CSO is not real carbon, it's softer than the 417x bottom deck. The 417V5 lower deck is stiffer than both.

Bulkheads are 0.5mm higher on the V5 and the top deck is an additional 0.5mm higher - the top deck cannot be shimmed up on a normal 417 because the centre shaft will move vertically

I have a 417X with the bulkheads shimmed, it's good but nowhere near as direct as the V5.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:58 AM   #4599
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where i can get video for rebound setting for 417V5 aeration shock?
i have problem to setting shock rebound, temporarily i use full rebound for my v5 shock
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:59 AM   #4600
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Anyone ran the V5 stock set-up on carpet? Whats it like?

As an aside, I've got my 417 running really well carpet with rubber tyres in Blinky 17.5. I will post the set-up soon.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:44 AM   #4601
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Anyone ran the V5 stock set-up on carpet? Whats it like?

As an aside, I've got my 417 running really well carpet with rubber tyres in Blinky 17.5. I will post the set-up soon.
It runs well... For high traction carpet... Found that I needed stiffer springs, thick sway bar, adjust roll center to correct traction roll.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:51 AM   #4602
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Anyone ran the V5 stock set-up on carpet? Whats it like?

As an aside, I've got my 417 running really well carpet with rubber tyres in Blinky 17.5. I will post the set-up soon.
Like Chris said the V5 works very good on carpet with the new shocks. Our track is bumpy low to med grip carpet so needed to run softer springs, stock sways and it is better than the 417x so far. (only been running for 2 weeks)
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:04 AM   #4603
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post

Bulkheads are 0.5mm higher on the V5 and the top deck is an additional 0.5mm higher - the top deck cannot be shimmed up on a normal 417 because the centre shaft will move vertically.
Craig, I understand the center shaft would move vertically if you just used plain 0.5mm washer spacers but why not use a long shim to bridge over the top of the the center shaft to prevent that from happening? I'm thinking a .05mm anti squat suspension shim plate trimmed and drilled to fit (just over the center shaft, washers everywhere else). Any reason that would not work?
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:19 AM   #4604
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Some TRF417V5 spare parts on the way now !!
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF417-ta-13454880.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-ta-11424473.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-ta-13454872.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-ta-13454876.jpg  

Last edited by RC MARKET; 01-18-2013 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:16 PM   #4605
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Originally Posted by SS LS1 View Post
Craig, I understand the center shaft would move vertically if you just used plain 0.5mm washer spacers but why not use a long shim to bridge over the top of the the center shaft to prevent that from happening? I'm thinking a .05mm anti squat suspension shim plate trimmed and drilled to fit (just over the center shaft, washers everywhere else). Any reason that would not work?
That would work but I think you'd need to use all 4 screws in the motor mount. I'm sure you could work something out, but I can't see it making enough difference to be worth the effort
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Some TRF417V5 spare parts on the way now !!
Any news on the driveshaft blades? Not that mine are at all worn
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