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12-25-2012, 06:13 PM

#4486

mhavlena

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigM

The shocks are quite easy to build, I can put a build guide on my blog if people would like?

Basic steps:
1. Assemble the shocks

2. Fill the body with oil
3. Use a shock pump to get the air out
4. With the piston fully extended, fill the shock to the brim with oil - have it completely full, almost so it's spilling over the sides
5. With the bleeder screw removed, tighten the cap slowly. The bleeder hole with bubble a few times as you screw the cap down
6. Slowly push the piston fully into the body. Oil will spill out of the bleeder hole
7. Screw the bleeder screw in

The shocks should feel smooth and air free. When you pull the piston out it should suck back in to within 1mm of the body. You should be able to fully compress the shock without hydraulic lock at the top - if this happens you need to bleed the shock again.

I found my shocks got bit better with more use, the first couple times I built them I couldn't get them exact but now they are worn in they are much better.

Edit: Lee Martin's explanation of the same thing is about half way down this page http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html This is for the buggy shocks but it's all the same

Can the aeration shocks be built with little to no rebound?

12-25-2012, 06:42 PM

#4487

mingnon

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigM

The shocks are quite easy to build, I can put a build guide on my blog if people would like?

+1 - these shocks are easiest to build, was amazed got them done first time.

Got the V5 built, and ready to run

Thanks for the build blog Craig

12-26-2012, 04:46 AM

#4488

Skiddins

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mhavlena

Can the aeration shocks be built with little to no rebound?

They are designed to have 'negative rebound' so they will actually pull the rod back into the shock body.

Elliot Harper has been running standard TRF shocks on carpet, not the aeration type.

12-26-2012, 05:45 AM

#4489

Johnn27

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trf dampers

Does anyone have the part number for the regular trf damper set?

12-26-2012, 07:47 AM

#4490

Pro10noob

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If i am not mistaken it is 42102.
http://www.ebay.nl/sch/i.html?LH_Pre...w=Tamiya+42102

Regards Roy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnn27

Does anyone have the part number for the regular trf damper set?

12-26-2012, 10:00 AM

#4491

zimmie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnn27

Does anyone have the part number for the regular trf damper set?

This is a limited edition version of the TC shocks...if you are interested (I picked up a set...just released in Canada a couple of weeks ago):

I can't post links yet but the item number is 84317

It is my first time running the X-ring O-rings...The X-rings are so smooth (and lacking friction) it almost feels like there is no O-ring in the shock.

Cheers

12-26-2012, 07:09 PM

#4492

anzmania

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Quote:

Originally Posted by tamiya-2012nz

my friend has the 417x and it keeps chewing the gears in the geardiff any fix to this???

Good to see someone else in NZ running the 417's. What class is he running or what turn motor? Has he looked @ Jilles Groskamp's Redrc gear diff building tips on Youtube? It is really helpful as it shows how to sand and shim gear diff gears. There are a some metal gear diff gears available now through HK if all else fails
Cheers
Anthony

12-28-2012, 12:04 PM

#4493

silverhkswrx

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia

Being a sponsored driver I would imagine Tamiya would like their drivers to run the latest and Greatest. Plus, the new chassis won the worlds. Also the newer chassis seems faster from all the reports. Why isn't your sponsor helping you with this decision?

From several reports (and Juan's expertise) the two chassis are 100% interchangeable. If you get the non v5, you just need upper and lower deck and servo mount. (Of course you can get the v5 shock mounts, aeration dampers and dcjs, steel diff gears and other misc items only available on the v5 separately, but you can spend the $170 and just save the headache.)

My recommendation, go with the v5, if you feel you need more flex, buy the reedy race upper and lower deck. I believe everything is interchangeable between the two. I'm sure with you being a team driver, your price can't be beat.

I just want to know when the lower/upper deck and servo mount will be sold separately. For those who have owned the 417x and already bought all the mods.

12-28-2012, 12:15 PM

#4494

silverhkswrx

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigM

edit: actually simple solution if you have the old car and want to use the new bottom deck - just space all your bulkheads up by 0.5mm

So just .5 mm spacers when connecting the upper deck to the bulkheads? I personally see this...flexibility(no pun intended) beneficial. When keeping the upper and lower decks closer, the chassis twist will be reduced. The more distance the more twist, right?

I'm trying to apply spacing logic to my non-v5 for more options.

12-28-2012, 12:23 PM

#4495

Robkitetop

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Quote:

Originally Posted by silverhkswrx

if you feel you need more flex, buy the reedy race upper and lower deck.

The Reedy edition lower and upper deck are stiffer then the stock 417x specifically designed for high bite tracks:

Stock = 2.25 mm
Reedy Edtion = 2.5 mm

Just to share the correct information.

Regards,

Robbert

12-28-2012, 12:27 PM

#4496

silverhkswrx

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Robkitetop

Correct. My recommendation was to purchase the v5 and other upper and lower chassis options for additional flex (if needed).

In order of stiffness(if I am not mistaken)is
trf417x
trf417
trf417x reedy
trf417x v5

This is referring to combination of the respective upper and lower decks. Interchanging upper and lower decks can produce different results.

12-28-2012, 07:14 PM

#4497

CraigM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by silverhkswrx

The 2.5mm chassis is stiffer than v5, and no the spacers go between the chassis and the bulkheads - the v5 bulkheads are all different to the X, diffs are 0.5 higher and top deck is 1mm higher

Last edited by CraigM; 12-29-2012 at 05:37 PM.

12-28-2012, 09:19 PM

#4498

VooDooPH

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so to get something similar to the v5, .5 shims between the chassis and bulkheads, and another .5mm shims between the bulkheads and top deck?

12-29-2012, 01:27 AM

#4499

CraigM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VooDooPH

so to get something similar to the v5, .5 shims between the chassis and bulkheads, and another .5mm shims between the bulkheads and top deck?

It's hard to do that because with 0.5mm on top of the motor bulkhead the centre shaft can move up and down. You can either lift the centre bulkheads a full 1mm or not worry about raising the top deck. I tried both ways on my X and preferred 0.5mm under all bulkheads. The V5 still feels much sharper though.