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Old 12-23-2012, 04:11 PM   #4471
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Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO View Post
Can someone give me a part number for rear upright on a 417
Many thanks
I think it's 51333.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:35 AM   #4472
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Originally Posted by JoeyE View Post
I think it's 51333.
thanks for that
for some reason my driveshaafts seem to rub on the inside of the upright
the clip that holds the pin in on the drive shaft rubs
and thats with 51333

Any help !!!
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:45 AM   #4473
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You need to dremel the rear part to stop it rubbing. If its new stock it should be fine (look for one with TA06 on the card).
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:46 AM   #4474
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Originally Posted by kentech View Post
Aeration dampers are not available as a set (at least not yet, there is no such product or part# released) so you need to buy the parts separately if you want them. The only new parts though are the cylinders (#9804672) and (#9804671) Ball connector nuts.

The rest are old parts; i.e. from the std TRF dampers and TRF buggy dampers.
If you would want to convert std. TRF dampers you'd need:

51280 Cylinder caps
9804672 Cylinders
9804291 O-rings
9805779 2x5mm Cap screws
9804671 Ball connector nut (for mounting to tower, but the easy and already available part to use here is the #54205, which is the same part but with different coating)

That should be all that's different.
Yep thats the one, I was told it was the new shocks. Thanks for clearing it up.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:51 AM   #4475
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here you go guys.. going to try something else to change pace:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...anium-etc.html
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:20 AM   #4476
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
You need to dremel the rear part to stop it rubbing. If its new stock it should be fine (look for one with TA06 on the card).
ok thanks for that
so the ta06 one is the latest one then?
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:31 AM   #4477
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Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO View Post
thanks for that
for some reason my driveshaafts seem to rub on the inside of the upright
the clip that holds the pin in on the drive shaft rubs
and thats with 51333

Any help !!!
Check the inside of the upright where the ball connectors (for the upper suspension link) would come through. I went with a smaller spacer on the ball link than the kit, and plastic was being pushed into the drive shaft causing rubbing. Removed the plastic and I was good to go (I just used a body reamer).

Cheers
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:38 AM   #4478
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Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO View Post
ok thanks for that
so the ta06 one is the latest one then?
Yes they should be good. I can't verify it but as ta06 pros, xv01's etc all have the same suspension and drive shafts now they should work. I used an older parts tree (had it in the pit box from my 416) recently and had to dremel it, but the ones that my mate bought to fit on his ta06 pro fitted fine on his car which has the same design and drive shafts.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:39 PM   #4479
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Hi guys. I got a question about to get a trf 417X or a trf 417v5? For next year im being sponsered by Tamiya holland but im having a hard time wich is a better choice to get.
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.

thnx in advance
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:53 PM   #4480
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Has anyone got some tips or a guide on building the aeration shocks?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:27 AM   #4481
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Originally Posted by racecees1 View Post
Hi guys. I got a question about to get a trf 417X or a trf 417v5? For next year im being sponsered by Tamiya holland but im having a hard time wich is a better choice to get.
I can get a Trf 417X for around €170 cheaper then a trf 417v5 but i want to know is the new chassis a better car for 170 euro,s more or is 417X the better choice and drive that for a year and wait for maybe the trf 418?. I hope someone can give me a good answer.

thnx in advance
Being a sponsored driver I would imagine Tamiya would like their drivers to run the latest and Greatest. Plus, the new chassis won the worlds. Also the newer chassis seems faster from all the reports. Why isn't your sponsor helping you with this decision?
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:52 AM   #4482
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will the lower and upper deck of the 417x fit the 417?

What would be the main difference of the stock 417 decks and the 417x's?

thanks!
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:20 PM   #4483
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Thanks for that
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #4484
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will the lower and upper deck of the 417x fit the 417?

What would be the main difference of the stock 417 decks and the 417x's?

thanks!
Yes they will fix. The 417x chassis is even more narrow and allows more flex.
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:09 PM   #4485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
Has anyone got some tips or a guide on building the aeration shocks?
Or more specifically where you fill up the shock body to and the steps after that.
Im having trouble getting all four shocks the same. How are they meant to feel? And with the negetive rebound, when you pull the rod all the way out, is it meant to be pulled all the way back in?
The shocks are quite easy to build, I can put a build guide on my blog if people would like?

Basic steps:
1. Assemble the shocks
2. Fill the body with oil
3. Use a shock pump to get the air out
4. With the piston fully extended, fill the shock to the brim with oil - have it completely full, almost so it's spilling over the sides
5. With the bleeder screw removed, tighten the cap slowly. The bleeder hole with bubble a few times as you screw the cap down
6. Slowly push the piston fully into the body. Oil will spill out of the bleeder hole
7. Screw the bleeder screw in

The shocks should feel smooth and air free. When you pull the piston out it should suck back in to within 1mm of the body. You should be able to fully compress the shock without hydraulic lock at the top - if this happens you need to bleed the shock again.

I found my shocks got bit better with more use, the first couple times I built them I couldn't get them exact but now they are worn in they are much better.

Edit: Lee Martin's explanation of the same thing is about half way down this page http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html This is for the buggy shocks but it's all the same
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