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Tamiya TRF417

Old 09-30-2012, 01:39 PM
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Anyone know what size the standard driveshaft blades are, if so does anyone use anything other than the tamiya ones
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by scytherat
Anyone know what size the standard driveshaft blades are, if so does anyone use anything other than the tamiya ones
SpecR 3.0mm Drive Shaft Blades
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:00 AM
  #3978  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The 417 is a lot more rear biased than the tc6. The motor, and battery are a good 6-8 mm further back than on the tc6. The rsd6 is somewhere in between as the battery can be moved back 5mm vs the tc6. Geometry wise the 6.1 arms are almost a copy from the trf ones, but the upper rear hub position is 2-3mm further out in the 6.1

Diff position is also another thing that is different as well. The tc6's diffs are either higher than the lowest 417 or a bit higher. I feel like it lacks an in between position.

Lastly, the wheelbase is a lot longer on the tc6 in std setting.

At the moment, they are both fast, very similar laptimes. The rsd6 feels more locked in on the track, while the 417 feels like it has more corner speed, however the lap times come out so close it's not funny.

I am trying to replicate the geometry of the 417 on the rsd6 to see what the effect on the car is. The rsd6 is narrower and the motor does not overhang as far out. So it will be interesting to ser what happens.
Thanks for the info. I tried exactly the same with my TC6 when I picked up a used XRay T3'11 to copy. I copied everything it was possible to (RCs, track width, wheelbase, WD, toe, shock positions, diff heights etc) and it still handled nothing like the XRay! So much of modern TC handling seems to come from the subtle things like chassis flex, steering arcs, wishbone stiffness etc it's unreal.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:41 AM
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Anyone know if a new 417 version is coming down the pipe? Never mind I see it's coming. Any dates?

Last edited by RCknight; 10-03-2012 at 01:50 AM. Reason: found info.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx
Speculation on the trf417v3 kit contents? 2.5mm hole-less lower, 2.5 mm upper, one piece servo mount, diff v3.0, aeration dampers, dcjs sounds about right.

What are aeration dampers and dcjs? Just curious.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RCknight
What are aeration dampers and dcjs? Just curious.
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think aeration dampers have a bleed valve and no bladder - I'm unsure of specific benefits. DCJ's are double-jointed universals, currently available as aftermarket hop-up: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42216 - benefit here is more efficiency at higher steering throw angles.

On a side note, I see that metal gears are now an option for the gear diff: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54428
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:20 AM
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PDR
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think aeration dampers have a bleed valve and no bladder - I'm unsure of specific benefits. DCJ's are double-jointed universals, currently available as aftermarket hop-up: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42216 - benefit here is more efficiency at higher steering throw angles.

On a side note, I see that metal gears are now an option for the gear diff: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54428
As you all know from Jilles diff build video, one is supposed to shave down the main gears to 3.75 mm or something. Guess we can't do that now with the steel gears? Perhaps Jilles will have to come up with yet another video / new method for diff building...
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
As you all know from Jilles diff build video, one is supposed to shave down the main gears to 3.75 mm or something. Guess we can't do that now with the steel gears? Perhaps Jilles will have to come up with yet another video / new method for diff building...
I would hope that these are just machined properly and do not require any filing sanding or other crap to make it work.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
As you all know from Jilles diff build video, one is supposed to shave down the main gears to 3.75 mm or something. Guess we can't do that now with the steel gears? Perhaps Jilles will have to come up with yet another video / new method for diff building...
Jilles shave them down to 3,57-3,56 and put 3x0,1 skims in both sides under the bevel gear. Then he puts 2x0,1 on the outer side.

Howevery I just remove the small taps from the big bevel gear, and place 1x0,3 on one side and 1x0,2 on the other. Also i place 1x0,2 on both outers sides of the gear case.
maybe thats the way to go with the new steel gears.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:32 AM
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I am racing indoors this winter on sorex 28, so anyone have a good base capet setup for a 417x.

Cheers
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:52 AM
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Anyone know where I can get the complet engine motor mounts for the 417x at
Can't seems to find then at any shop
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Vicko
Anyone know where I can get the complet engine motor mounts for the 417x at
Can't seems to find then at any shop
I think they will be available in 2 weeks
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The 417 is a lot more rear biased than the tc6. The motor, and battery are a good 6-8 mm further back than on the tc6. The rsd6 is somewhere in between as the battery can be moved back 5mm vs the tc6. Geometry wise the 6.1 arms are almost a copy from the trf ones, but the upper rear hub position is 2-3mm further out in the 6.1

Diff position is also another thing that is different as well. The tc6's diffs are either higher than the lowest 417 or a bit higher. I feel like it lacks an in between position.

Lastly, the wheelbase is a lot longer on the tc6 in std setting.

At the moment, they are both fast, very similar laptimes. The rsd6 feels more locked in on the track, while the 417 feels like it has more corner speed, however the lap times come out so close it's not funny.

I am trying to replicate the geometry of the 417 on the rsd6 to see what the effect on the car is. The rsd6 is narrower and the motor does not overhang as far out. So it will be interesting to ser what happens.
Interesting. Diff height can make a big difference. There is a certain point in diff height where the dog bone will not slide in and out of the drive cups as the suspension compresses. I think if the designer did their job this should be the low diff position on every car. Higher than this and you increase the plunge of the dog bone. On power and under braking this will cause friction that will have the effect of stiffening the suspension on the end of the car with the high diff. You can get a lot of interesting effects from this when you combine this with soft springs and various droop settings.

BTW, I am not cyber stalking you Christian...just looking for a new Sedan. Really impressed with your work!
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:53 AM
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Quiet in here, is everyone too busy going fast?

I had a brief run with the new Smokem chassis on my spare car recently. I was really surprised not to loose on power grip because the chassis is much stiffer when flexed by hand. Compared to the X chassis it seems smoother and provides a bit more bite, but the X has a bit more low speed steering with the same setup. So a good first impression, looking forward to doing some more testing.

I also picked up some of the RSD springs, bladders, and orings so I'll get them tested and report back soon. This weekend is our state titles event so every 10th will count!
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