mingnon

iTrader: (12)

Qatmix
thanks for the info on steering, wasnt sure if the amount of slop in it was normal or not.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

The slop seems to be in the little bearings, I haven't figured out a change for it but I think as far as slop goes at the wheels it's not too bad

Qatmix

CVD's, They have been silent for a year, still no wear.. although I have never rebuilt them.

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

LRP x20 4.0T... TC Spec v2 soft v4... Planning on boost level 1 or 2.

8.7 too low you think? I already have the motor what do you recommend? What method of calculation are you using?

LRP actually recommends 9.0.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

Ran my 417x for the first time, and was able to consistently run the car for first place. I used Marc's setup for the Reedy Race, but changed the rear diff oil to 900 and added little more front droop from 6mm to 5mm. Car felt very good at the end.

a little tip for those using the kyosho xrings for the shocks. I used a 0.2mm 4mm shim in the shock body to space out the rod guides to better seal the shaft. Use the flat side on the rod guide to mate with the xring. Smooth shocks, but minimal leak at the end of the day. Much better than the standard orings.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Im glad for your outcome! I am running his setup for carpet and havent had the opportunity to actually race it and tune it, but I will be rather soon! Rain in FLorida is horrendus!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I haven't used the x20s so maybe start as you have planned, on a big track like that I think you'll want more boost and at least another tooth or two. On the big nitro track near me I used to run the 4.5 octa at 7.6 with 4 feel and 5 boost

Spur/pinion*IR

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

I run on asphalt so when I freed up the front droop, the car had way more steering.

As for carpet, use the single piece sus mounts and the motor mount connection piece. If you use traction compound, make sure it does not get on to the tire side wall. I see lots of people just loading them on like a glazed doughnut, making the sidewallls soft in the process. You want the sidewalls to be firm, so it won't roll under. I also heard that limiting droop is one of the most effective way to prevent traction rolls.
Tamiya is also coming out with a hard upper and lower deck (42232,42233) for high grip surfaces.

Vid of race. My car is the flr-red one. sorry about the crappy quality

+ YouTube Video

Akita

Hi , i need some help to understand how does the spacer here affect the car .
How can i see if i need to change the spacer ?
Any source to read some things about the setups ?

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

I use this
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525

Akita

What is the name i am looking for in that book ?

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

If you have to ask then maybe you should consider reading the whole thing, but the section you're specially referring to is on page 27....

eComet

iTrader: (69)

For the circle in green, higher (more spacers) gives lower roll center, meaning it will roll more, which makes it less responsive and grip more.

On the opposite, lower (less spacers) gives higher roll center, meaning it will roll less, which makes it more responsive but may grip less.

COLD AS ICE

iTrader: (19)

May be a good idea to rebuild them. Take them apart and clean with motor spray, wipe them off and blow with air compressor. Put some grease into the outdrive itself and on the barrel piece that the set screw and pin go through. Try using the Hudy graphite grease, it works wonders. I do this routine about every 3 race weekends. Sometimes more. I usually run in the super stock class (13.5 blinky) and never have chatter issues except when the cvd's need cleaned and greased. Hope this helps!!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Actually the change to the roll centre is minimal, you notice the camber change much more which has the opposite effect - less spacers, more camber change, more grip, more aggressive