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Old 06-29-2012, 03:10 AM   #3376
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craig how do you like the dcj in the rear
I like them, it feels like they let the rear suspension and diff work more freely, but I don't thing the difference is huge
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:24 AM   #3377
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Looking at this picture here, does anybody know where I can get this Tamiya logo in vector? or know what font this is?

Have almost every logo in Illustrator vector (.ai) because I plot my own decals. Give me your email and I'll mail it to you.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:37 AM   #3378
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The car is much smoother to drive with DCJs in the front at least. It might not be much faster but it's definitely better
Do you mean the wheel chatter? I actually have never gotten a ton even on a pit with proberly cleaned and built cvd's, when i have it was very minimal. I still use the car for the tcs event, so maybe ill give the dcj's a shot and see how they feel on the track.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:30 AM   #3379
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Do you mean the wheel chatter? I actually have never gotten a ton even on a pit with proberly cleaned and built cvd's, when i have it was very minimal. I still use the car for the tcs event, so maybe ill give the dcj's a shot and see how they feel on the track.
If you turn the CVD in your hand holding each end and gradually add some angle you'll notice you feel the chatter before it would ever be visible. I think from about 15 degrees onwards you can start to feel some resistance. You can get upwards of 22 degrees of steering lock on the tamiya, so it's there even if you can't see it. The DCJs eliminate it, I think they are especially important if running steel spool cups because the metal on metal combined with some chatter would not be a good combination
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:48 AM   #3380
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If you turn the CVD in your hand holding each end and gradually add some angle you'll notice you feel the chatter before it would ever be visible. I think from about 15 degrees onwards you can start to feel some resistance. You can get upwards of 22 degrees of steering lock on the tamiya, so it's there even if you can't see it. The DCJs eliminate it, I think they are especially important if running steel spool cups because the metal on metal combined with some chatter would not be a good combination
Yes, i learned this on my xray, only difference is xray cvd chatter is much more noticeable, you can put grease in them to smooth them because they are openly designed and supposed to be much lighter, so i just run dcj/ecs shafts in that. Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:12 AM   #3381
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Have almost every logo in Illustrator vector (.ai) because I plot my own decals. Give me your email and I'll mail it to you.
Z
Thanks Z, but my decal guy actually found it for me.. now sure where, but we got it! thanks.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:58 PM   #3382
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Can anyone in Aust point me to a place to purchase the diff shims pn 19804494 (5x10x0.1)
cheers
matt b
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:49 AM   #3383
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Can anyone in Aust point me to a place to purchase the diff shims pn 19804494 (5x10x0.1)
cheers
matt b
www.smallparts.com.au has every shim you could ever need for a fraction of the price of the tamiya parts
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:40 AM   #3384
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www.smallparts.com.au has every shim you could ever need for a fraction of the price of the tamiya parts
Thanks Craig

just had a look, what a great place to get bits and pieces
cheers
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:09 AM   #3385
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Thanks Craig

just had a look, what a great place to get bits and pieces
cheers
Thank JV, he put me onto them. They are really good my stuff came in 2 days.

Have you coned your diff shims?
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:02 AM   #3386
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Thank JV, he put me onto them. They are really good my stuff came in 2 days.

Have you coned your diff shims?
I pulled the diff to see about a leak, the shims appear flat (placed on trued machine block) BUT there feels like there there is a little bit of slop in the outdrives/housing and what appears to be a groove/dull patch on the outer most shim (from the pin), so was going to replace them and see if it leaks anymore.
Have looked at your "build a diff" info as well and will need to order some 0.5 shims to have a go at it
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:37 PM   #3387
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Having trouble with putting swaybar links together I have the grey ball cups on top but can't put the black part on the rear studs does it go the other way around?
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:48 PM   #3388
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Having trouble with putting swaybar links together I have the grey ball cups on top but can't put the black part on the rear studs does it go the other way around?
the rear uses the same 5mm ball cups, top and bottom part. both of them cut 5mm (i hate doing this lol) and make a hole in the top one. I made them 30mm long end to end. Only the front assembly is unique due to the 4mm ball built into the arm.
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Old 06-30-2012, 11:40 PM   #3389
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Have a TRF417, what is the fastest gear combo for a Team Powers 17.5 Plutonium with 12.5 rotor/ceramic bearings(shimmed rotor close to board), ORCA Vitra esc.

What is a good starting point for gearing? Spur??? Should I go big or go small on spur?
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:13 AM   #3390
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
the rear uses the same 5mm ball cups, top and bottom part. both of them cut 5mm (i hate doing this lol) and make a hole in the top one. I made them 30mm long end to end. Only the front assembly is unique due to the 4mm ball built into the arm.
Thank you
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