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Old 06-28-2012, 01:01 AM   #3361
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho View Post
do anyone have the table for reference regarding the HINGE BLOCKS, SPLIT FOR TRF 417, and they may be assembled in both side how do I know which side is correct.

thank you.
The marks on the split block should face inside for the right combo, fx u have a xa-a split block and want xa block in the rear front position, then u place xa facing inbound that gives u a xa block in the rear front position.

Here is a chart over the block.

Hope this helps

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...art/index.html
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:35 AM   #3362
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Which xrings do i use for the shock, 50 or 70 Durometers?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:43 AM   #3363
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Which xrings do i use for the shock, 50 or 70 Durometers?
50
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:44 AM   #3364
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:26 AM   #3365
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"Looking at this picture here, does anybody know where I can get this Tamiya logo in vector? or know what font this is?"

PM him here @ FWM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:22 PM   #3366
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for the 417X
do you guys run the original alu/blue 44 shaft or the steel 44 or 46?
plan to run spool
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:35 PM   #3367
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for the 417X
do you guys run the original alu/blue 44 shaft or the steel 44 or 46?
plan to run spool
run the 46mm steel in front for smoother steering run the 44mm in the rear
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:09 PM   #3368
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DCJs front and rear
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:10 PM   #3369
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DCJs front and rear
What would be the reason to run DCJ's in the rear...?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:43 PM   #3370
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i use 44mm back and front , i had a problem with the front steering upright breaking when i had the 46mm shafts in. It only stopped happening when i changed to the 44's.
With the standard plastic outdrives the 46mm was fine.The problem started when i fitted steel spool outdrives.
Also has anyone got any feedback on the mr33 red springs, ive had good results from using blue f blue R, but im going to try the reds tommorow.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:23 PM   #3371
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What would be the reason to run DCJ's in the rear...?
I don't know how it works, but there have been reports that you get more rear traction with dcj's. Tamiya magic at work here?

edit: did a little more reading on this, and what people have been saying is that the rear became more planted and the car turned better. Felt more like "on the rail" feeling. Times improved .2-.3 sec, etc.
anyone noticed that?
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Last edited by inpuressa; 06-28-2012 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:37 PM   #3372
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when i use to my 417 about a year ago, I never used anything but cvd's. I had steel 46's in the front and kept right up with cars that had ecs's in them. Keep them clean and they stay nice and smooth for the life of the car, thats tamiya magic at work might have something to do with the way the suspension is designed on that car as well.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:44 PM   #3373
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
I don't know how it works, but there have been reports that you get more rear traction with dcj's. Tamiya magic at work here?

edit: did a little more reading on this, and what people have been saying is that the rear became more planted and the car turned better. Felt more like "on the rail" feeling. Times improved .2-.3 sec, etc.
anyone noticed that?
I wish!

They give more on power grip and a bit more rotation. They don't wear as much either
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:50 PM   #3374
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Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
when i use to my 417 about a year ago, I never used anything but cvd's. I had steel 46's in the front and kept right up with cars that had ecs's in them. Keep them clean and they stay nice and smooth for the life of the car, thats tamiya magic at work might have something to do with the way the suspension is designed on that car as well.
The car is much smoother to drive with DCJs in the front at least. It might not be much faster but it's definitely better
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:38 AM   #3375
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The car is much smoother to drive with DCJs in the front at least. It might not be much faster but it's definitely better
craig how do you like the dcj in the rear
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