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Old 06-17-2012, 05:00 AM   #3271
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Thank you Craig!
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:38 PM   #3272
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Thanks Craig, cant wait till tomorrow night to give it a run
only change made is 450 shock oil and ride red springs all round (what i was using on 416)
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:15 AM   #3273
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  1. set droop even both sides
  2. detach shocks
  3. flip car upside down
  4. hold one arm against the droop screw and the other side drop
  5. repeat holding the other arm against the droop screw
  6. if one arm drops more than the other then adjust the link until they are even - lengthen the side that drops more or shorten the side that drops less
Thank you. You have to do with the car wheels up? I always thought and I saw it with the chassis on the floor...
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:04 PM   #3274
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It's more accurate upside down because the droop screws remove any inconsistencies in travel. I take the wheels off btw.

Normally then I put the car on droop blocks and using the big side of the droop gauge I lever one arm up and keep sliding it further in on the arm until the other side lifts, then check the other side.

Your suspension needs to be 100% free or it won't work
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:25 AM   #3275
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For 17.5 blinky at my local outdoor asphalt track.... iv think i need to be shooting for an FDR of 3.6. would this be a good gear combo to start with? Will it fit properly? recommendations? (its been a while since iv run on-road)

94/50 = 3.65 fdr
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:23 PM   #3276
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For 17.5 blinky at my local outdoor asphalt track.... iv think i need to be shooting for an FDR of 3.6. would this be a good gear combo to start with? Will it fit properly? recommendations? (its been a while since iv run on-road)

94/50 = 3.65 fdr
I am running 49/103 which is a 4.0 fdr with a revtech and it fits just fine on a medium sized outdoor track. Comes off about 150 with a fan...and is pretty fast.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:00 PM   #3277
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I am running 49/103 which is a 4.0 fdr with a revtech and it fits just fine on a medium sized outdoor track. Comes off about 150 with a fan...and is pretty fast.
So you think closer to 4.0?
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #3278
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So you think closer to 4.0?
That is where I would start...watch your temps and then add gear as you need to.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:03 PM   #3279
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That is where I would start...watch your temps and then add gear as you need to.
Ok, thanks for the tip. Our outdoor track is going to be pretty large... the straight is going to be around 110 feet.

Another question, what fan are you running? I have been looking for a setup thats designed to just mount-and-go.. but can't find one. Suggestions?
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:18 PM   #3280
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Get a side piece racing Seis Fan and just tape it down to the chassis...they work very well. Remember to plug it directly into the receiver as it cannot handle the higher voltages.

http://www.sidepieceracing.com/products/seis/
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:31 PM   #3281
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I've been looking at multiple 417x setup sheets online trying to understand a few pro-setups and had a few questions.

What is the advantage of running the front C block with the front rear B blocks?

On the 416 it was normal to run 2mm for the front wheelbase. I noticed many of the 417x setups are using 1mm-0.5mm. What is the advantage of this?
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:34 PM   #3282
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Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3 View Post
I've been looking at multiple 417x setup sheets online trying to understand a few pro-setups and had a few questions.

What is the advantage of running the front C block with the front rear B blocks?

On the 416 it was normal to run 2mm for the front wheelbase. I noticed many of the 417x setups are using 1mm-0.5mm. What is the advantage of this?
C/B is 0.5 deg arm sweep, which increases castor as the car rolls giving you more mid corner steering

Shorter front wheelbase gives less entry steering but more exit steering. Most setups also use 3.5mm rear wheelbase, so the weight bias is shifted forward
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:02 PM   #3283
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C/B is 0.5 deg arm sweep, which increases castor as the car rolls giving you more mid corner steering

Shorter front wheelbase gives less entry steering but more exit steering. Most setups also use 3.5mm rear wheelbase, so the weight bias is shifted forward
That helps quite a bit. If I change the front wheelbase to be shorter, I should also correspondingly change the shims on the steering bellcranks as well to keep the geometry correct. My question is, what is the steering change from going to more or less shims in how it translates to driving on the track?
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:17 PM   #3284
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iv been slowly completing my 417x build, and now complete.... it seems the drivetrain is less than smooth... the front spool pully is almost square up against the rearward front suspension hanger...did I get something wrong?
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:54 PM   #3285
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Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3 View Post
That helps quite a bit. If I change the front wheelbase to be shorter, I should also correspondingly change the shims on the steering bellcranks as well to keep the geometry correct. My question is, what is the steering change from going to more or less shims in how it translates to driving on the track?
Yes you should adjust the ackerman shims too. Less ackerman shims give more toe out as lock increases so less aggressive steering. You need to find a balance with ackerman, too many shims and your car will be twitchy, too few and it will push mid corner.

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iv been slowly completing my 417x build, and now complete.... it seems the drivetrain is less than smooth... the front spool pully is almost square up against the rearward front suspension hanger...did I get something wrong?
Sounds like you have may have the eccentric bearing carriers around the wrong way. Maybe take a photo so we have a better idea what you mean
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