R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #3211
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,311
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by svndayNZ View Post
I was wondering if somebody could help me I just bought some 1XA split suspension blocks, since I've installed them there is a lot of bind in the right hand side, the left is free flowing and fine. I can't get the sway bar to lift the right hand side, I've isolated the bind to these blocks. Since they are the same angle as the kit I didn't think I'd be having these issues
Not my make of car, but we use a similar system, something that will also help the bind issue, is to put a small dab of the tamiya silver grease on the ball, so it doesn't bind in the cup of the brace, the lube will let it float a little better and center itself to the angle of the toe setting so it should free up the arms a little bit.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 12:25 PM   #3212
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,303
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Not my make of car, but we use a similar system, something that will also help the bind issue, is to put a small dab of the tamiya silver grease on the ball, so it doesn't bind in the cup of the brace, the lube will let it float a little better and center itself to the angle of the toe setting so it should free up the arms a little bit.
the grease does help. But aren't you supposed to ream the arms out so it pivots freely there instead of the sus ball?
redbones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #3213
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,311
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
the grease does help. But aren't you supposed to ream the arms out so it pivots freely there instead of the sus ball?
A reduction in shim thickness should be used to float the pin.The greased ball is to help in the final assembly as the steel ball can seize in the aluminum mount and if off slightly can put slightly more pressure on the arms shims and then the arms won't drop correctly. The free movement of the arms should be checked on final assembly without anything else mounted to them, they should free drop, the slightest bind can make the car act erratic, its very important, and thats for any car out there.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS

Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 06-11-2012 at 03:04 PM. Reason: edited due to mis-information, my bad.
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 01:06 PM   #3214
Tech Fanatic
 
kentech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 849
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Absolutely, reaming the arms is a must, once done they should float on the pin with no bind. The greased ball is to help in the final assembly as the steel ball can seize in the aluminum mount and if off slightly can put slightly more pressure on the arms shims and then the arms won't drop correctly. The frre movement of the arms should be checked on final assembly without anything else mounted to them, they should free drop, the slightest bind can make the car act erratic, its very important, and thats for any car out there.
This is totally wrong.
The TRF is designed so that the arm do not move around the pin, but the pin is solid in the arm and the only pivot points are the pin inside the suspension balls. This gives much less friction (especially under load) and more precision compared to if the whole arm pivoted around the pin, like on some other cars. This is one important feature which stands out on the leading TC's (same system used by Yokomo and HB for example).
__________________
kentech.wordpress.com
kentech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #3215
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 10
Default

To remove arm binding replace a 0.5 shim with 0.3 from the 3mm shim set. Then it will have a little play.

This method is comparable to jilles's build method, of replacing a 1mm shim with a 0.75mm (the one from the c hub).

Do not ream the arms like kentech states, that is totally wrong and gives too much play (sideways).

BR, Steffan
Steffanchr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 02:32 PM   #3216
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,311
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kentech View Post
This is totally wrong.
The TRF is designed so that the arm do not move around the pin, but the pin is solid in the arm and the only pivot points are the pin inside the suspension balls. This gives much less friction (especially under load) and more precision compared to if the whole arm pivoted around the pin, like on some other cars. This is one important feature which stands out on the leading TC's (same system used by Yokomo and HB for example).
I stand corrected. Edited mis-information.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS

Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 06-11-2012 at 03:05 PM.
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2012, 02:35 PM   #3217
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

It takes some time to get the arms to rotate freely and also takes some patience. Jilles method is really good and works very well, but a little trial and error goes a long way. I constantly have to readjust the blocks to ensure that they are not bound up, but also to ensure there is not too much play. On the Tamiya...you never reem the arms out like Kentech posted.

Everything on the car should rotate or move freely and if it is not the car will be inconsistent. when I am unsure if I have a problem I take everything off the chassis and start my build over. This ensures that everything is straight and moving freely.
__________________
Xray | Hudy | Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | Protoform | Proline | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 05:13 AM   #3218
Tech Regular
 
svndayNZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auckland
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for all the advice guys, I seem to have figured it out, some tuning tweaking and jilles on YouTube helped a lot. These separate blocks need more fine tuning than the one piece that's defnately something I've found.

First race outing in ten years coming up on Sunday. Things have changed since my P2K powered TC3 and when 2800mah nimhs were massive!

I'm only 26, making myself sound old.

Thanks again gents
svndayNZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:13 AM   #3219
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,078
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

I have my 417x on order, and am excited to get back onto the tarmac... but, I am a little worried about parts. I thought I would have no problems, but I think being new to the brand is confusing me a bit... I was planning on doing all my parts shopping at speedtechrc, but a) 75% of their parts are out of stock for this car, of parts that show up under a search are actually for a different car (example, TB03 arms show up for the 417).

Could you guys point me towards the following? Im looking for spare:

front/rear suspension arms
c-hub carriers
steering blocks
rear hubs
spur gears

thanks for the info guys!

-Cpt.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:27 AM   #3220
Tech Master
 
John.C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Track
Posts: 1,290
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I have my 417x on order, and am excited to get back onto the tarmac... but, I am a little worried about parts. I thought I would have no problems, but I think being new to the brand is confusing me a bit... I was planning on doing all my parts shopping at speedtechrc, but a) 75% of their parts are out of stock for this car, of parts that show up under a search are actually for a different car (example, TB03 arms show up for the 417).

Could you guys point me towards the following? Im looking for spare:

front/rear suspension arms
c-hub carriers
steering blocks
rear hubs
spur gears

thanks for the info guys!

-Cpt.
Build items
Tamiya TRF417x (TAM42205)
Tamiya Aluminum Horn (TAM54121)
Tamiya Air Duct (TAM3454480)
Tamiya Double Cardan Joint Shaft Kit (TAM32216)
Tamiya TA05 V2 Separate Suspension Mount 1A/1XA (TAM54172)
Tamiya TA05 V2 Separate Suspension Mount 1C/1XC (TAM54174)
Parma/PSE T2 Ultimate bumper

Spares/tuning items
Tamiya 5x9 Ball Hex Connector (TAM9804381)
Tamiya 4.5x4.7 Flanged Tube (TAM9804396)
Tamiya 4.5x3.5 Flanged Tube (TAM9804382)
Tamiya 3x0.7mm spacer (TAM9805645)
Tamiya TRF416 Derlin Direct Cup (TAM9804388)
Tamiya TRF416 Front Uprights (TAM51332)
Tamiya TRF416 Rear Uprights (TAM51333)
Tamiya TRF416 Front C-Hubs (TAM54031)
Tamiya Short Reversible Suspension Arm X2 (TAM53928)
Tamiya 46mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft (TAM53851)
Tamiya 416TB03 Alum Suspension Mount 1E (TAM54073)
Tamiya TRF Damper Large Diameter Retainer (TAM42192)
HPI Option Springs (Blue) X2 (HP6542)
HPI Option Springs (Silver) X2 (HP6543)

This spares/tuning list is a good starting point. Depending on your driving style, class, and track you may need additional spares/tuning items. If you don't go with the DCJs you'll want to pickup the 46mm steel shafts for the front.
__________________
- Middle River Hobbies - The Track -
John.C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:34 AM   #3221
Tech Master
 
John.C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Track
Posts: 1,290
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default Spur gears

I'm currently using this spur gear.


I have these on order.


A third option from SpeedtechRC.
__________________
- Middle River Hobbies - The Track -
John.C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:39 AM   #3222
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,078
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the fantastic reply... much appreciated!!
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #3223
Tech Regular
 
tr1kstanc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 357
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Depending on the track you race at I would also look at the softer plastic C-hubs as they have more give to them.

TAM51293 Tamiya TA05-IFS F Parts (Hub Carrier, 4 degrees)
__________________
☆ Joe Tran ☆
tr1kstanc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 04:08 PM   #3224
Tech Adept
 
OI82lose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 195
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Green slime

I use green slime from Team Associated to seal my shocks and gear diffs.
Is this the same product as "Slime" which is green and sold to repair tires and tubes?
Any information would be great.

Thanks
OI82lose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2012, 04:11 PM   #3225
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OI82lose View Post
I use green slime from Team Associated to seal my shocks and gear diffs.
Is this the same product as "Slime" which is green and sold to repair tires and tubes?
Any information would be great.

Thanks
No. The one for tired solidifies.
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saudi Arabia RC Club grizzle Manila Racers 6558 01-06-2017 09:50 AM
Tamiya TRF415 JDM_DOHC_SiR Electric On-Road 21094 03-10-2016 12:02 PM
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X academygaz Electric On-Road 10619 01-01-2015 04:36 PM
Tamiya TA05 IFS rcforum Electric On-Road 1132 12-18-2014 06:19 AM
"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors JGH Electric On-Road 1996 05-27-2014 07:28 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0