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Old 05-03-2012, 04:42 AM   #3061
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Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

Anybody tried the CSO lower decks wich are available for the 417?

They look like the 417x lower decks, but are nearly half the price.
So how is the quality of them compared to the Tamiya original ?

Greetings Rainer
I got one and it fuc#ing nasty, really bad finish with pin holes and dull! don't think I will ever put it near my car! Don't even think its Carbon Fibre!

Smokem chassis is way nicer than this!

Keith
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:00 AM   #3062
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her is mine. still gotta add some stuff to the body, but I am very happy with the car so far.
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Tamiya TRF417-tc-body.jpg  
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:24 AM   #3063
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What tires are better: soft, medium or hard? Muchmore Racing are good?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUDL2&P=7

Thanks. Best Regards.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:15 AM   #3064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdempsey View Post
I got one and it fuc#ing nasty, really bad finish with pin holes and dull! don't think I will ever put it near my car! Don't even think its Carbon Fibre!

Smokem chassis is way nicer than this!

Keith
Thanks for the Info. Thats what i have expected.....

Greetings Rainer
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:20 PM   #3065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Hy there!

Anybody tried the CSO lower decks wich are available for the 417?

They look like the 417x lower decks, but are nearly half the price.
So how is the quality of them compared to the Tamiya original ?

Greetings Rainer
I run with the CSO chasis plate and top plate and there is no
difference with the original only the price tag

Thanks

Ed
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:24 PM   #3066
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Originally Posted by Guillermito View Post
What tires are better: soft, medium or hard? Muchmore Racing are good?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUDL2&P=7

Thanks. Best Regards.
I run these for parking lot racing. The 28's are the best all around. If it's cool outside use the 24's. I've used the 28's with 120 degree track temps and loved them.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:53 PM   #3067
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Iv just picked up a 417x its still boxed and im going to build it up later this week, iv always run associateds but feel the 417x is the best car on the market. As this is my first Tamiya kit What does everybody suggest i do straight off the bat? I know the outdrives arent the best but what else.
I run 17.5 boosted in a big flowing outdoor track with a tight infield as well as indoor
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:39 AM   #3068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svndayNZ View Post
Iv just picked up a 417x its still boxed and im going to build it up later this week, iv always run associateds but feel the 417x is the best car on the market. As this is my first Tamiya kit What does everybody suggest i do straight off the bat? I know the outdrives arent the best but what else.
I run 17.5 boosted in a big flowing outdoor track with a tight infield as well as indoor
Steel outdrives
HPI springs
Split suspension blocks
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:06 AM   #3069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svndayNZ View Post
Iv just picked up a 417x its still boxed and im going to build it up later this week, iv always run associateds but feel the 417x is the best car on the market. As this is my first Tamiya kit What does everybody suggest i do straight off the bat? I know the outdrives arent the best but what else.
I run 17.5 boosted in a big flowing outdoor track with a tight infield as well as indoor

If you plan to run the spool in front I would suggest 46mm Steel Front CVAs or the new steel 44mm DCJs. I would switch all of my turnbuckles out for Titanium. I would have a set of aluminum C-Hubs in m pit box in case you run at a tougher track. I would also have split blocks as an option as well. The car is really good and I think you will see a big improvement over any AE car currently available.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:54 AM   #3070
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Steel outdrives
HPI springs
Split suspension blocks
Thanks mate, iv checked out your blog. Good reading.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:09 AM   #3071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
If you plan to run the spool in front I would suggest 46mm Steel Front CVAs or the new steel 44mm DCJs. I would switch all of my turnbuckles out for Titanium. I would have a set of aluminum C-Hubs in m pit box in case you run at a tougher track. I would also have split blocks as an option as well. The car is really good and I think you will see a big improvement over any AE car currently available.
Thanks bud, ill check this all out. I ran a TC3 10 years ago and all i did was replace springs and actively tune my suspension and wheel geometry and the car was amazing. Had a bit of a heavy feel to it but getting back into it now 10 years later people seem to take these carbon based kits seriously in terms of numerous top plates and even more chassis plates. A lot of it suits driver style and track but your opinions on the kit are a help so thanks for taking the time to help me out.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:07 AM   #3072
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Is the Anti-Wear grease on the thrust bearing of the ball diff build in the manual a typo or real?
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:11 AM   #3073
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its real, just keeps it smooth and slows down wear.

I ran front and rear 417 balls diffs (I race my 417 on foams and carpet.. probably the only person on here that does) and they didnt need rebuilding after 9 months of weekly racing (only 13.5t though).

I currently run Gear diffs... I dont know if they really give me any advantage (Although the lack of slip helps away from the line) but I miss the ability to make small quick adjustments...
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:21 PM   #3074
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I would have thought that how thick it is would have caused the diff to loosen it self since the thrust bearing is meant to allow the bolt to turn during diff action so as not to undo or tighten the diff bolt and nut while driving.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:40 AM   #3075
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
I would have thought that how thick it is would have caused the diff to loosen it self since the thrust bearing is meant to allow the bolt to turn during diff action so as not to undo or tighten the diff bolt and nut while driving.
Its best to dab some threadlock on the diff nut, but I've never had a ball diff loosen off. You should use a graphite grease of some sort on all thrust bearings.

I all seriousness though, chuck the ball diff in the bin and get a gear diff
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