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Old 03-21-2012, 04:56 AM   #2911
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Hey guys!
Since I have my 417X, I'm having problems with three items.
- Leaks of silicone througt short differential joint.
- Short and long aluminium differential joint take plays in to quickly and broke to many blades.
- CVD (TA-51445) take plays to quickly also.

aluminium Differential joints are changed to a steel one and hope this resolv blade and joint problems, but what about CVD?

Last Andalusian (Spain) Regional, I must change two times to reduce play.
I'd bought new Tamiya double from CVD.
Are this stronger than simple CVD?

Do you know how to reduce leaks from differential version II? Why from shot differential joint?

King regards from Spain!
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:28 AM   #2912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banquer View Post
Hey guys!
Since I have my 417X, I'm having problems with three items.
- Leaks of silicone througt short differential joint.
- Short and long aluminium differential joint take plays in to quickly and broke to many blades.
- CVD (TA-51445) take plays to quickly also.

aluminium Differential joints are changed to a steel one and hope this resolv blade and joint problems, but what about CVD?

Last Andalusian (Spain) Regional, I must change two times to reduce play.
I'd bought new Tamiya double from CVD.
Are this stronger than simple CVD?

Do you know how to reduce leaks from differential version II? Why from shot differential joint?

King regards from Spain!
Hi Banker,

I have never reduced to zero the leak of the differential, but mounting it whith grease like jilles groskamp says in his tutorials helps a lot.

I have replaced the original aluminium joints with steel made by Roche and solved the problem.

The original CVD axles are quite strong and reliable, never had a problem with them, do you keep them greassed and clean?

Cheers!
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:49 AM   #2913
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Originally Posted by Guillermito View Post
Thank you! Somewhere in the USA?

Best Regards.
I always go through speedtech and ampdraw. They might not have it in stock but if you give them a part number they can get it quick
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:15 AM   #2914
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Originally Posted by columbia-mk2 View Post
Hi Banker,

I have never reduced to zero the leak of the differential, but mounting it whith grease like jilles groskamp says in his tutorials helps a lot.

I have replaced the original aluminium joints with steel made by Roche and solved the problem.

The original CVD axles are quite strong and reliable, never had a problem with them, do you keep them greassed and clean?

Cheers!
Thanks Columbia.
I've done Mr. Groskamp tutorial, but steel leaking silicone. Do anybody knows if are optional o'rings better for tamiya diff gear?
Roche joints are in the way to my car ...
I'l try to keep my CVD cleans and greassed too!

Thanks a lot and king regards. I hope my next post will be about first position for our Regionals!
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:11 AM   #2915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banquer View Post
Thanks Columbia.
I've done Mr. Groskamp tutorial, but steel leaking silicone. Do anybody knows if are optional o'rings better for tamiya diff gear?
Roche joints are in the way to my car ...
I'l try to keep my CVD cleans and greassed too!

Thanks a lot and king regards. I hope my next post will be about first position for our Regionals!
I had a similar problem until I loosened the screws holding the sides together and tightened them evenly, slowly, and without much torque. While mine isn't 100% leak-free, I'd say a solid 90%. Jilles makes a point to mention the tightening of those screws.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:13 AM   #2916
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hotdognobun and CraigM, Thank you very much for the information!!

This set of titanium bolts you can put the TRF417X?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXANNE&P=7

Because only offer it as an option for TRF417...

Thanks. Best Regards.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #2917
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Originally Posted by Guillermito View Post
hotdognobun and CraigM, Thank you very much for the information!!

This set of titanium bolts you can put the TRF417X?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXANNE&P=7

Because only offer it as an option for TRF417...

Thanks. Best Regards.
yes that is the one i used. I got mine off ebay for $44.00 and got it in less than 2 weeks. I stop ordering from Towers cause they take forever to ship and price is higher than most sites.
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:06 PM   #2918
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Kyosho make a red oring for the v1rrr that will stop the diff leaking, I don't have a part # sorry
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:34 PM   #2919
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Some pointers I've come up with when building the gear diffs
- only sand the back of the bevel gears enough to remove the plastic burrs...keep them as thick as possible
- ditch the shims the diff came with... get a pack of 5mm shims from tamiya (.1, .2, .3mm thickness)
- .4mm goes behind the crown gear
- shim on the outside until you get little to no side to side play from the outdrives (i have .1 on the short outdrive and .2 on the long one).

basically the idea is to shim internally for mesh, then shim on the outside to reduce/remove play.

so far no leaks on my units since i've done this.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by VooDooPH; 03-21-2012 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:45 PM   #2920
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Are you running mod? I've gone back to kit shims because the little ones kept collapsing into the oring
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:48 PM   #2921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Are you running mod? I've gone back to kit shims because the little ones kept collapsing into the oring
yes. 7.5T with boost. so far so good... the shims seem to hold up. i think its the slop that kills the gears and causes the leaks...

hated the kit shims because the cone after a few laps and made the diff run stiffer in the middle of the heat.
for insurance i have 2 spare built diffs in the bag aside from the one installed in the car.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:28 AM   #2922
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I had coning at TITC with the outside shimmed, then I had the small shims collapse with the outside shimmed back home in lower grip, so I started building them how kiyo said and it's been ok since. I think they will cone again but so far so good, running 4.5t btw.

My friend modded the gears to take a 10mm pin and that's solved the problem completely so I'll do that if they cone again
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:04 AM   #2923
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Still a 2mm pin? because I tried a 3x10mm and the gear broke
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:22 PM   #2924
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Still a 2mm pin? because I tried a 3x10mm and the gear broke
Yep same diameter just longer, so under load it presses on the case and not the oring
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:53 PM   #2925
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1.5mm pin x10mm long
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