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Old 01-23-2012, 06:21 PM   #2641
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When new, I found that the suspension arms didn't rotate freely within their suspension mounts. Obviously, I could swivel them up and down, but they would not go back down on their own (gravity) when lifted.

The instructions state to shave the suspension arms should they not move freely, thus, that's exactly what I did. After a couple of weekends of racing, I now find that there is way too much front to back play.

Should I have left the suspension arms alone and installed them without shaving?

Has anyone else experienced this?
Do the suspension arms bind at first? and do they free themselves up after time?
Suspension arms that have too much play can't be too good for handling.

Appreciate!!
After some stress and crashes, the suspension mounts will move. You can loosen the suspension mount screws, re-adjust the tolerance for the suspension arm movement, and then re-tighten them again.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:21 PM   #2642
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i went with Boca ceramic orange seal. It cost almost half of cars price! i feal no advantage over stock! we ll see after a long run how it last? stick with stock and if anyone is looking i have the 417x teflon sealed bearings for sale
Those ones are maintenance free, correct?

Since they will still get dirty on the outside, how do you clean them without removing the internal grease?
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:24 PM   #2643
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After some stress and crashes, the suspension mounts will move. You can loosen the suspension mount screws, re-adjust the tolerance for the suspension arm movement, and then re-tighten them again.
I see....but are they tight at first for you as well?
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:28 PM   #2644
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I see....but are they tight at first for you as well?
Without sanding down the arms, yes, they are tight in the beginning. There's two way you can do this, use 0.5mm less shim without sanding down the arms. Or sand it until the movement is small and free.

You can also use the tiny 0.1-0.3 shim to shim out unwanted plays (also for accidentally removing too much material on the arms). But try the method I mentioned earlier first, then add more shims if the play is still too much.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:35 PM   #2645
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I see....but are they tight at first for you as well?
Yes, they were tight. I actually swapped the 1mm shim for a 0.7mm shim, for a total of 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm. That helped. I had a race meet over the weekend and haven't checked it over yet, but I will check the play when I get a chance.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:45 PM   #2646
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i use the 0.7 shim as well. Also i ran a 3mm reamer through the arm, just one or two swipes, just takes any casting burs of the ends of the arm to enable to to be free on the shaft.

nice a free
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #2647
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Those ones are maintenance free, correct?

Since they will still get dirty on the outside, how do you clean them without removing the internal grease?
i have yet to maintence/clean my bearings after 12 pack because my lap time has not dropped so they are still running strong! the seals are getting visually dirty but i just compress air it. to be honest i have never maintenance or replace any ceramic bearing from boca to acer! my yokomo r12 after 30+packs still spins freely forever!
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:05 PM   #2648
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Yes, they were tight. I actually swapped the 1mm shim for a 0.7mm shim, for a total of 1.2mm instead of 1.5mm. That helped. I had a race meet over the weekend and haven't checked it over yet, but I will check the play when I get a chance.
Also how Jilles does it, .75mm shim instead of 1mm. Takeoff (and others) make them

If you have excess play you have probably bent a suspension mount
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:29 AM   #2649
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Hi Guys,
I have just got a 417 and i am looking for a link to some setups for carpet with rubber tyres
Many thanks
i43.tinypic.com/eijz0i.jpg

this was my set up for ETS rd 2 in Italy first in I Main

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Old 01-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #2650
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greetings all,

I want to get a gear diff for my 414. Can anyone tell me what the measurement is between the rear bulkhead diff bearings of the 417, or the measurement of the tamiya gear diff II is from side to side where the the bulkhead bearings are?

Cheers
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:05 PM   #2651
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i43.tinypic.com/eijz0i.jpg

this was my set up for ETS rd 2 in Italy first in I Main
Thank you
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #2652
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greetings all,

I want to get a gear diff for my 414. Can anyone tell me what the measurement is between the rear bulkhead diff bearings of the 417, or the measurement of the tamiya gear diff II is from side to side where the the bulkhead bearings are?

Cheers
go onto the Tamiya 415 forum and the last 5 pages has the instructions for fitting a gear diff into the 415, what spacers required and what belts to use for the different pulley sizes.

not sure of the difference between the 414 and 415 bulkheads so it may not be exactly correct, but a lot more info on that thread that will help you out
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:01 AM   #2653
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I have just fitted a gear diff to a 415, I will have a go to see if it fits on the 414 this weekend.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:17 AM   #2654
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greetings all,

I want to get a gear diff for my 414. Can anyone tell me what the measurement is between the rear bulkhead diff bearings of the 417, or the measurement of the tamiya gear diff II is from side to side where the the bulkhead bearings are?

Cheers
The real problem your going to have mounting a gear different in the 414 is pulley size.The closest size I can find is a 34T from spec r. It'll fit, the belts will be too tight. I've used a gear diff from top racing for 2 years now. Not the best, but in my car I've never been off pace. Won the roar nats last year with it and nearly won reedy with it. Just mount your standard 414 one-way gear on it. I have never rebuilt it. I filled it with black AE grease and drove it. It will brake in nicely after about 2 to 3 packs. If you find a way to mount a better brand please pm me. Thanks

Last edited by Juan Aveytia; 01-25-2012 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:46 AM   #2655
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Thanks everyone for your input. Very appreciated. Juan, see you at Norcal!
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