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Old 01-22-2012, 05:06 PM   #2626
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Default Caster Blocks

Are 2 & 6 degree (stock 4 deg) caster blocks available for the 417?

If so, what are the P/N's?

Thx!!
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:44 PM   #2627
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Hi guys, any motor recommendation for boosted 10.5? Currently running 11.5 Orion but looking towards another brand, probably revtech or TP motors.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #2628
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Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy View Post
Hi guys, any motor recommendation for boosted 10.5? Currently running 11.5 Orion but looking towards another brand, probably revtech or TP motors.
thunder power or team powers
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:33 PM   #2629
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thunder power or team powers
Thanks, ordered thunder power
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #2630
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Do you have starting setup for rs pro with 10.5?
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:38 AM   #2631
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Hi,

Is it just me that is starting to notice increased wear on the blades when using the Tamiya Gear Diff Unit II instead of the Spec-R? Lately my blades have only lasted me 5 runs or so.

I am running 17.5T boosted and blinky - it is when I started practicing boosted for DHI Cup I noticed it. I raced mod all outdoor season with no issues at all (and a Spec-R diff).
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:27 AM   #2632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
Hi,

Is it just me that is starting to notice increased wear on the blades when using the Tamiya Gear Diff Unit II instead of the Spec-R? Lately my blades have only lasted me 5 runs or so.

I am running 17.5T boosted and blinky - it is when I started practicing boosted for DHI Cup I noticed it. I raced mod all outdoor season with no issues at all (and a Spec-R diff).
I wrote in page 161:

Finally, I found a solution to premature wear in diff caps. I know blades are a consumable, but not in two runs with new diff cups.

You need: mini drill, damaged diff cups, associated 3.5mm blades 31238 and 3.5mm diamond bite

First, take your damaged diff cups, a diamond bite of 3.5mm and make the groove more wider until asso blade fit good.

Second, make holes of blade little wider with a screw driver or something until move freely and put into shaft pin.

Enjoy your car for many many runs without thinking in shaft blades.

I can't put some pics because forum permissions, sorry.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:05 AM   #2633
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you can do the same dremel trick and use the new yokomo moulded delrin blades. The pin size is the same and the blades last basically forever.

Alternatively roche make hardened steel outdrives
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:03 AM   #2634
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Thanks guys!

Just wondering why I didn't have the problem in mod with the Spec-R diff. But the new Tamiya diff is a lot better IMO, so I will consider doing the dremel mod.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:32 AM   #2635
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Associated blades are stroger in the middle and fits good in shaft pin. Put the blade is not easy and plastic is more elastic, so you don't have fragile broken.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:38 AM   #2636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilson Picaldy View Post
Do you have starting setup for rs pro with 10.5?
got to tekin site and get hara 17.5t setting and work from there as i do not run tekin run hw and orca esc
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:44 AM   #2637
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@miguelfs14....Mail me the pic's and i will post them for you.

regards Roy
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:49 AM   #2638
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I use Spec-R blades that are a direct replacement. They are translucent and come in a pack of about 6-8. Not only are they cheaper than the Tamiya blades but they last a whole lot longer. The Tamiya blades are too brittle.

After destroying three sets of the tamiya blades, I put in the Spec R blades. They've been holding up well even with damaged diff outdrives(caused by running after the tamiya blades destroyed themselves).
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:13 AM   #2639
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Running modified (Nosram 4.5T octa), with new diff cups (Tamiya diff v2) and new spec-r 3mm blades for Tamiya, broken in two runs. Yes TWO runs (5-6 minutes run) and diff cups wear.

With 3.5mm Associated TC-6 blades, there is no trouble, but is necessary some work (little work). You can take worn diff cups to make it of 3.5mm.
I have Spec-r 3.5mm blades for Yokomo still not tested, that fits good and maybe work.

Diff with poor "machined" recycled cups:




Associated TC-6 blades in tamiya shaft after 10 runs (rear):




Now you can see how it fits:





Today, after 20 runs, still works. Now you can see that a poor mod with damaged diff cups runs good. Actually I'm running with stock front pulley and alu shafts rear (with 3.5mm tc-6 blades)

Last edited by miguelfs14; 01-23-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:08 PM   #2640
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Default Suspension arms

When new, I found that the suspension arms didn't rotate freely within their suspension mounts. Obviously, I could swivel them up and down, but they would not go back down on their own (gravity) when lifted.

The instructions state to shave the suspension arms should they not move freely, thus, that's exactly what I did. After a couple of weekends of racing, I now find that there is way too much front to back play.

Should I have left the suspension arms alone and installed them without shaving?

Has anyone else experienced this?
Do the suspension arms bind at first? and do they free themselves up after time?
Suspension arms that have too much play can't be too good for handling.

Appreciate!!
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