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Tamiya TRF417

Old 11-06-2011, 01:28 AM
  #2191  
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yup, I have never had a leaking TRF shock so I wouldn't bother.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:22 AM
  #2192  
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Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:00 AM
  #2193  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
Pull very hard or use a screwdriver behind it, to try to push it off. But I admit, it can be really difficult, and the easy solution is to cut the ends off.
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:46 AM
  #2194  
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know when will be available the 417X
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by oscargonzalez
know when will be available the 417X
In Italy probably next week, I'm waiting.......
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:45 AM
  #2196  
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Mid-november in Denmark.
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:21 PM
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When shimming underneath the rear suspension blocks, do you also have to raise the layshaft holders and motor mount by the same amount?
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
Find a tube with the same inner diameter as the spool sleeve. I use an old set of spool.sleeves for a T2 from TiR. Mount it at the end to squeeze the cup's ends together then pull quickly. Still hard fo tome but way easier than without.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dane
When shimming underneath the rear suspension blocks, do you also have to raise the layshaft holders and motor mount by the same amount?
No, just raise the blocks.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:41 AM
  #2200  
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Just wanted to provide some input about some changes that I have made to my 417 and the results. I have been looking to make the car more aggressive and as such have been messing with the car flex to pull this off. The first change I made was to move from 450 CST to 400 CST in the front shocks and this did help get some more steering on corner entry. After that I started in on flex changes in the chassis.

First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!

Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!

All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.

I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.

Until next time!
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:42 AM
  #2201  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
Round the edge on the spool that keeps the aluminium cup in place by cutting the edge. Then put a 5 mm screwdriver behind the aluminium cup and twist the screwdriver and the cup will easily slide over the edge if you did round it off.
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:47 AM
  #2202  
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Originally Posted by artwork
Just wanted to provide some input about some changes that I have made to my 417 and the results. I have been looking to make the car more aggressive and as such have been messing with the car flex to pull this off. The first change I made was to move from 450 CST to 400 CST in the front shocks and this did help get some more steering on corner entry. After that I started in on flex changes in the chassis.

First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!

Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!

All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.

I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.

Until next time!
"Team Associated"?
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:22 PM
  #2203  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
There is no easy way to do it, but there is a way if you are very careful and patient. Take a flat head screw driver and place it under the plastic eccentric (thing that holds the bearing in place). Then squeeze the out tip of the spool cup with a pair of needle nose pliers. At the same time you are squeezing the plastic spool cup, pry with the screwdriver and the aluminum sleeve should pop up past the tip of the spool cup. You have to be very careful not to damage any of the aluminum, but it is possible and I have done it many many times.

Remember do at your own risk...
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:45 PM
  #2204  
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Cheers for the tips, I will have a go tomorrow.

Also for flex, I have gone for cut top deck, spilt blocks and put my uncut mount back on. The car is quicker for me (13.5t) as the cut mount makes the back too stable, slowing my rotation in the corners.

Also fitting the stiff roll bar on the front has transformed the left-right transition speed.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:51 PM
  #2205  
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Hi Guys!
I'm running in mod and tamiya drive shaft blades are really bad, because get fragile broken and the lost makes wear in diff cups. If you put a couple of new, the next new blades maybe broke in two mains because wear in diff cups. So you may change diff cups too.
I tryed spec-r and maybe works best, but not for a long time, maybe 4 mains.

I'll try to test 3.5mm spec-r for yokomo, making diff cups for this.

Anyone who solved wearing in drive shaft blades?

Thanks!!
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