Tamiya TRF417
#2191
Tech Master
yup, I have never had a leaking TRF shock so I wouldn't bother.
#2192
Tech Master
Quick question, is there a way to remove the Aluminium Spool cups without having to cut the ends off the plastic cups?
#2193
Tech Addict
Pull very hard or use a screwdriver behind it, to try to push it off. But I admit, it can be really difficult, and the easy solution is to cut the ends off.
#2194
Tech Initiate
know when will be available the 417X
#2195
#2196
Tech Addict
Mid-november in Denmark.
#2200
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Just wanted to provide some input about some changes that I have made to my 417 and the results. I have been looking to make the car more aggressive and as such have been messing with the car flex to pull this off. The first change I made was to move from 450 CST to 400 CST in the front shocks and this did help get some more steering on corner entry. After that I started in on flex changes in the chassis.
First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!
Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!
All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.
I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.
Until next time!
First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!
Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!
All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.
I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.
Until next time!
#2201
Tech Apprentice
Round the edge on the spool that keeps the aluminium cup in place by cutting the edge. Then put a 5 mm screwdriver behind the aluminium cup and twist the screwdriver and the cup will easily slide over the edge if you did round it off.
#2202
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Just wanted to provide some input about some changes that I have made to my 417 and the results. I have been looking to make the car more aggressive and as such have been messing with the car flex to pull this off. The first change I made was to move from 450 CST to 400 CST in the front shocks and this did help get some more steering on corner entry. After that I started in on flex changes in the chassis.
First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!
Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!
All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.
I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.
Until next time!
First I removed the steering brace and installed split blocks front and rear. This did not make as big of a difference as I thought it might. I was surprised to notice that for some reason it made the car push a little. Which surprised me!
Second, I cut the top deck in the front, This made a huge difference in how the car reacted and really made the car feel more aggressive. It helped not only initiate the corner better, but also allows the car to finish the corner very nicely. I picked up at least 2 tenths on hot lap and 1 tenth on average lap. That is a huge difference!
All of this was done on med bite carpet with a 17.5 motor...so yes it makes a difference regardless of motor.
I think I will stay away from cutting the motor mount and leave the car the way it is, but I will tell you that these changes have made a significant difference.
Until next time!
#2203
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Remember do at your own risk...
#2204
Tech Master
Cheers for the tips, I will have a go tomorrow.
Also for flex, I have gone for cut top deck, spilt blocks and put my uncut mount back on. The car is quicker for me (13.5t) as the cut mount makes the back too stable, slowing my rotation in the corners.
Also fitting the stiff roll bar on the front has transformed the left-right transition speed.
Also for flex, I have gone for cut top deck, spilt blocks and put my uncut mount back on. The car is quicker for me (13.5t) as the cut mount makes the back too stable, slowing my rotation in the corners.
Also fitting the stiff roll bar on the front has transformed the left-right transition speed.
#2205
Hi Guys!
I'm running in mod and tamiya drive shaft blades are really bad, because get fragile broken and the lost makes wear in diff cups. If you put a couple of new, the next new blades maybe broke in two mains because wear in diff cups. So you may change diff cups too.
I tryed spec-r and maybe works best, but not for a long time, maybe 4 mains.
I'll try to test 3.5mm spec-r for yokomo, making diff cups for this.
Anyone who solved wearing in drive shaft blades?
Thanks!!
I'm running in mod and tamiya drive shaft blades are really bad, because get fragile broken and the lost makes wear in diff cups. If you put a couple of new, the next new blades maybe broke in two mains because wear in diff cups. So you may change diff cups too.
I tryed spec-r and maybe works best, but not for a long time, maybe 4 mains.
I'll try to test 3.5mm spec-r for yokomo, making diff cups for this.
Anyone who solved wearing in drive shaft blades?
Thanks!!