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Old 10-26-2011, 12:47 PM   #2131
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Originally Posted by Bad-Andy View Post
A lot of time racing on high grip carpet vs asphalt I'd stick w/ the 417. The deep cut outs in the chassis are going to keep me from upgrading mine to an X version since I race on the rug. It just seems like it would flex too much.
I race exclusively on medium/high grip carpet with a 417, as was thinking about upgrading to the 417X when it's available, but I'm also wondering if it's going to flex too much for carpet racing.

There were a few other Tamiya racers at my local club, but they have all now moved to other manufacturers chassis' (Xray/Schumacher/HotBodies). The Schumacher Mi4CX seems to be the car to beat at the moment, but with no other Tamiya racers to share setup with, I'n not sure if I should go the 417X route anymore...
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:10 PM   #2132
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Originally Posted by sprintcarracer View Post
I looked at the arrow max drive shafts and they look the same as the spec-r shafts. Does anyone have any feedback on these.

Very different to the spec-r.

The spec-r shafts are not as strong, they bend considerably easier than the Arrowmax.

The Arrowmax are very good however, at present there is a batch that have the incorrect wheel axle on them. I am currently waiting for replacement axle's and it is quite frustrating to have several of these cvd's that are unusable as they foul on the c-hubs...

My older Arrowmax cvd's (with correct wheel axle's) last quite a long time, clean them out every race day and re-lube.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:19 PM   #2133
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Originally Posted by bjspinner View Post
Very different to the spec-r.

The spec-r shafts are not as strong, they bend considerably easier than the Arrowmax.

The Arrowmax are very good however, at present there is a batch that have the incorrect wheel axle on them. I am currently waiting for replacement axle's and it is quite frustrating to have several of these cvd's that are unusable as they foul on the c-hubs...

My older Arrowmax cvd's (with correct wheel axle's) last quite a long time, clean them out every race day and re-lube.
Thanks a bunch. Now where is a good place to buy the arrow max from. I found them at rc market. Is there a place in the US that carries them.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:51 PM   #2134
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Just a thought here, if there is a grinding sound, as you clearly have, something has to be grinding. The should be some sign of wear... Anno wearing off, plastic parts shaving, small bits of metal, somewhere.

I am late to this discussion, but have you swapped out the front CVD's maybe with some from another racer at your track. So you can take your parts out of the equation. Try shorter CVD's just to see if that helps..Maybe pop the shocks off, and run the suspension through it's full stroke,without turning the wheels.. does that cause the chatter too ? Maybe pop the steering linkage off and try steering it manually. Just isolate it down to the smallest denominators.
I had the exactly same though about the grinding sound, so I actually put it back onto the track (after "giving up" finding the cause), just so it could wear out the place where it is happening. Nothing weared out, melted down or anything

I have tried with the rear CVD's in the front and I have tried some CVD's from a 416X, with no success. I don't have access to shorter CVD's (I am using 44mm).

I have tried with the shocks off, but have not tried it together with the suspension at full stroke though. I can try that tomorrow at the track.

I have tried disconnecting the steering and operate the steering knuckles manually. No success.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:57 PM   #2135
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
I had the exactly same though about the grinding sound, so I actually put it back onto the track (after "giving up" finding the cause), just so it could wear out the place where it is happening. Nothing weared out, melted down or anything

I have tried with the rear CVD's in the front and I have tried some CVD's from a 416X, with no success. I don't have access to shorter CVD's (I am using 44mm).

I have tried with the shocks off, but have not tried it together with the suspension at full stroke though. I can try that tomorrow at the track.

I have tried disconnecting the steering and operate the steering knuckles manually. No success.
As mentioned several several times already, put on a set of DCJ's. If after you put on the DCJ's it still has the problem then you know at least the universals were not at fault.
Look familiar?
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:33 PM   #2136
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Originally Posted by Toon View Post
I race exclusively on medium/high grip carpet with a 417, as was thinking about upgrading to the 417X when it's available, but I'm also wondering if it's going to flex too much for carpet racing.

There were a few other Tamiya racers at my local club, but they have all now moved to other manufacturers chassis' (Xray/Schumacher/HotBodies). The Schumacher Mi4CX seems to be the car to beat at the moment, but with no other Tamiya racers to share setup with, I'n not sure if I should go the 417X route anymore...
The Xray has a different kind of flex than the Tamiya. I've had both for a year. Just because the deck is thicker on the Xray doesn't matter, the carbon lay up/type is totally different, feels totally different, I reckon the Xray is far better on the rug. Its total BS that you need a stiffer plate for carpet, I found the more flex I put on the 417 the faster it became on both carpet and asphalt..even (particularly) in extreme high traction situations. I modded my 417 to be like 417X and it was again faster. I found also that increasing the flex on the Xray by using the Zeppin Chassis made it even faster in every situation I've been in so far. Perhaps its due to driving style, I'm sure many will disagree but its just my experience.

Keep the 417, get the softer 417X plate, cut the top deck, AND get the t3 2012. And please let us know what you think..
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:14 PM   #2137
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
As mentioned several several times already, put on a set of DCJ's. If after you put on the DCJ's it still has the problem then you know at least the universals were not at fault.
Look familiar?
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I can see your point, but then what I don't get, is why it starts after a complete season without these noises and vibrations, and then all of the sudden starts? Plus why no other 417 in my area does it?

But I have one question though: Is it normal for the same grinding noises to be there on the track as well?
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:36 PM   #2138
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Should I get the 417 now or wait for the 417X? I will be racing indoor asphalt and carpet. Need a good all around car but not sure if the new chassis will help or impair me.

What should I do?

Based on what I am seeing I think the 417X will be a more aggressive car and if I was going to primarily run outside or on a paved surface I would personally wait for the X to come out, however I think both cars will be far better then most other cars outside. The nice thing is that Tamiya is backwards compatible with a lot of their parts so if you need a stiffer car it is just a chassis or top deck away.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:31 PM   #2139
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Hi Guys.

Can anyone confirm the part number for the "D" toe plate for the rear of the 417.

the kit comes with the E plate.. but i would like to run the same as a couple of setups i have seen here.

Josh
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:35 PM   #2140
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Hi Guys.

Can anyone confirm the part number for the "D" toe plate for the rear of the 417.

the kit comes with the E plate.. but i would like to run the same as a couple of setups i have seen here.

Josh
54072 for a 1D block
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:30 AM   #2141
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:46 AM   #2142
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
I can see your point, but then what I don't get, is why it starts after a complete season without these noises and vibrations, and then all of the sudden starts? Plus why no other 417 in my area does it?

But I have one question though: Is it normal for the same grinding noises to be there on the track as well?

Hi,
Yeah you will be able to notice grinding noises on the track , this is normal with the single joint type driveshaft

The grinding will be more noticeable on Carpet tracks but also is noticeable on Tarmac tracks

Hope this helps
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:11 PM   #2143
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Originally Posted by Elliott Harper View Post
Hi,
Yeah you will be able to notice grinding noises on the track , this is normal with the single joint type driveshaft

The grinding will be more noticeable on Carpet tracks but also is noticeable on Tarmac tracks

Hope this helps
Elliott
Hi,

Thanks for your help (and all of the other people helping me out!). I tried some Litemodz CVS in the front, and the chatter went away completely. It is apparently just the standard Tamiya CVD that starts doing it after a while.

I hope Tamiya comes out with some Xray ECS-like CVDs in the near future.

Thank you all!

Best regards,
Niklas Hansen
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:11 PM   #2144
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Sorry for a 416X question but I did not want to look for the 415/416 thread.

My 416x has a issue on a tight carpet track. The dogbone pins are bending. The dogbones are stock and the outdrives are stock. Is there a stronger or better dogbone?
(Just for more info. the pin that is coming out of the dogbone is just behind the wheel).
Also what do you recommend for spool outdrives?

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Old 10-31-2011, 10:22 AM   #2145
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Absolutely! at least I know there flexing ... whereas with the alloy, I have had it before where it's been bloody difficult to see any bend until stripping them off the car.
At least with a plastic, if it's broke, you know about it

Having said that, never tried the Parma T2 bumper solution, although the carbon c-hubs are a lot more beefy than they used to be as well, so probably the bumper would be fine.

Anyway, on another point, I've finally got round to updating the 417 things to know list on my massively neglected site... I promise I'm going to try and keep it a bit more updated, I've got plenty of setups I need to put up there as well! If anyone's got any other tips, feel free to add them in!

Regards
Ed
For a med/high bite indoor carpet track, do we want maximum chassis flex or not? Just wondering whether I should give the split blocks a try.

Bummer that this information is not provided on the setup sheets (split blocks or standard).
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