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Old 10-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #2086
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The video probably isn't the best example, as it is at very little throttle. When applying more throttle, it starts at around 50% steering.

I will take a look at it this weekend, and try some of the suggestions in here. Thank you all so far for taking the time to help out. If I can't fix it this weekend, I will make a new video with more throttle applied, so that it is hopefully easier to see the problem.
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:41 PM   #2087
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
The video probably isn't the best example, as it is at very little throttle. When applying more throttle, it starts at around 50% steering.

I will take a look at it this weekend, and try some of the suggestions in here. Thank you all so far for taking the time to help out. If I can't fix it this weekend, I will make a new video with more throttle applied, so that it is hopefully easier to see the problem.
I ran into this same problem on my TA-05 ver.2 Pro. After awhile and I noticed that there was bit of play between the hingepin, and the A-arm. When I installed a fresh A-arm it improved noticeably. I think this occurs because of play either between that pin and the A-arm or somehow the C-Hub is interacting with the two (I'm not sure how).
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:55 PM   #2088
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[QUOTE=Nilks;9805405]Update:
I tried some different driveshafts and even tried putting the rear driveshafts in the front, with no success at all.

I really don't know what is wrong, but this isn't just normal wheel-chatter. At the end of the straight at my home-track, we have a left sweeper. When I apply steering at the end of the straight, I can feel the car "jumping" (due to vibrations in the front) so it won't steer in properly and it won't brake.

I am about to give up. The car is un-driveable, and I can't figure out why. I wanted to buy the 417X, but that car is probably 2 months away (if we should believe the rumours).[/QUOTE)


Seems normal to me also...

Lift the suspension arm up so as you simulate the arm position at ride height to its position on the track.
The extra droop without the weight of the car on the tires will make the chatter worse...
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:57 PM   #2089
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Seems normal to me also...

Lift the suspension arm up so as you simulate the arm position at ride height to its position on the track.
The extra droop without the weight of the car on the tires will make the chatter worse...
Tried that - didn't change anything. Plus the problem is also there on the track.

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Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
I ran into this same problem on my TA-05 ver.2 Pro. After awhile and I noticed that there was bit of play between the hingepin, and the A-arm. When I installed a fresh A-arm it improved noticeably. I think this occurs because of play either between that pin and the A-arm or somehow the C-Hub is interacting with the two (I'm not sure how).
I will probably try new A-arms this weekend. There isn't a lot of play, but I will see if it helps.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:09 AM   #2090
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
The video probably isn't the best example, as it is at very little throttle. When applying more throttle, it starts at around 50% steering.

I will take a look at it this weekend, and try some of the suggestions in here. Thank you all so far for taking the time to help out. If I can't fix it this weekend, I will make a new video with more throttle applied, so that it is hopefully easier to see the problem.
I read about someone having a similar problem in the rear of a 511 and it ended up being a cracked diff bearing holder which is hard to notice. So check the bearing holders that they are in one piece.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:16 AM   #2091
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Tried that - didn't change anything. Plus the problem is also there on the track.



I will probably try new A-arms this weekend. There isn't a lot of play, but I will see if it helps.
What is your setup on the front of the car?

If it is narrow/1B and you run longer bones/46mm with alot of camber the bone may be bottoming in the spool cup!
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:56 AM   #2092
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I read about someone having a similar problem in the rear of a 511 and it ended up being a cracked diff bearing holder which is hard to notice. So check the bearing holders that they are in one piece.
I also though about the bearing holders, so I tried different holders, with same result.

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What is your setup on the front of the car?

If it is narrow/1B and you run longer bones/46mm with alot of camber the bone may be bottoming in the spool cup!
I run 1C/1C with 44mm. My first thought was exactly camber, but I have tried detaching the camber-link and manually (by hand) adjust the camber, and try different camber settings. That didn't do the trick.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:34 AM   #2093
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Hy there!

A short question for building up dampers. Is it still so that the tamiya team uses the 1mm hole in the cap only on asphalt and not on carpet?

Greetings Blueman
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:16 PM   #2094
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Default gear diff....

my gear diff always leaking......how to solve this?
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:19 PM   #2095
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Your 417? or other?

regards Roy

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my gear diff always leaking......how to solve this?
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:36 PM   #2096
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44mm.
The problem didn't go away with a gear-diff.
It first appeared on my 4th run of the indoor-season. There was nothing in the first 3 runs, but on the 4th it started making some grinding noices. I took it in immediatly, and then I noticed the extreme vibrations.
I had the same problem, and believe it or not it was the rims, they were hitting the arms at full steering, so check the rims, if you removed them and turned the steering and it still does that, then like every one else has suggested replace the front pieces, and see if it is shimed correctly with nothing binding
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:19 PM   #2097
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Originally Posted by wandiez1019 View Post
my gear diff always leaking......how to solve this?
Is it a Tamiya or SPec. R?
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:25 PM   #2098
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Talking Leaking GEAR DIFF.

You can do two things or both.
First you can change the o-ring to a tighter one. Some are using the clear or the blue o-ring that goes inside the Tamiya shocks, and last put that green-slime on the o-ring and outdrive shaft and that should help also. I also put a very thin coat of silicone sealer on the gasket also.
Try these it just might do the trick!
Just my 2$
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:08 PM   #2099
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[QUOTE=maxepower;9813336]You can do two things or both.
First you can change the o-ring to a tighter one. Some are using the clear or the blue o-ring that goes inside the Tamiya shocks, and last put that green-slime on the o-ring and outdrive shaft and that should help also. I also put a very thin coat of silicone sealer on the gasket also.
Try these it just might do the trick!
Just my 2$[/QUOT

mine is 417......other things like blue o-ring n silicon sealer i can find but that green slime things......i really don't know what is that......is that also silicon sealer?......thanks in advance for all of the advise.....
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:13 AM   #2100
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[QUOTE=wandiez1019;9813801]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
You can do two things or both.
First you can change the o-ring to a tighter one. Some are using the clear or the blue o-ring that goes inside the Tamiya shocks, and last put that green-slime on the o-ring and outdrive shaft and that should help also. I also put a very thin coat of silicone sealer on the gasket also.
Try these it just might do the trick!
Just my 2$[/QUOT

mine is 417......other things like blue o-ring n silicon sealer i can find but that green slime things......i really don't know what is that......is that also silicon sealer?......thanks in advance for all of the advise.....
Its the famous and magical Associated Green slime. I use it on shocks and Gear diff as maxpower, and works very well.
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