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Old 09-30-2011, 12:54 AM   #1951
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Hi Guys, i always like to see pics of other guys cars so i thought i would post a couple of mine.
As you can see i have done the chassis mods (well most any way) also cut the top deck, motor mount, running split blocks, theres a lot of weight on the car as the weight limit for the event was 1450g , i was running the Arrowmax drive shafts but the grub screws come out twice so i put them away for another day, also to make the car look a bit different i put on white wire and ball cups.
The biggest problem i seem to be having is with the Tamiya V2 diff, the 3 shims in the diff start to cone where the gears start to push the shims against the o ring and in turn starts to make the diff feel notchy, and its hard to try to buy the shims.

Rhys
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:01 AM   #1952
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Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
Hi Guys, i always like to see pics of other guys cars so i thought i would post a couple of mine.
As you can see i have done the chassis mods (well most any way) also cut the top deck, motor mount, running split blocks, theres a lot of weight on the car as the weight limit for the event was 1450g , i was running the Arrowmax drive shafts but the grub screws come out twice so i put them away for another day, also to make the car look a bit different i put on white wire and ball cups.
The biggest problem i seem to be having is with the Tamiya V2 diff, the 3 shims in the diff start to cone where the gears start to push the shims against the o ring and in turn starts to make the diff feel notchy, and its hard to try to buy the shims.

Rhys
Have you been sanding the back surface of the gears as well, until all flat? Thats the advise Jilles gave... and I'll be trying out for myself soon.

Actually got a bit of an abundance of diff's at the momenet, as two v2's turned up today (although sure I only ordered one!), to go with the three I have from Spec-R! oops!
Oh well, will be good to have a comparison, I've got the Spec-r's running pretty well

Ed
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:42 AM   #1953
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Hey Ed, Yeah i sand the gears, but you use 3 x.1mm shims on each side behind the gears, and when the gears are running they push towards the out drives and tend to cone the washers, i spose the best thing to do is run yours for a day then take it apart and check the shims, im sure you will find they are coned slightly, more so the shim next to the O ring.
I have run the Spec R diffs with no probs except for a bit of oil leaking out.
The new Spec R drive shafts look good with the clips instead of the grub screws.

Rhys
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:25 AM   #1954
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So... also looks like you can run a jointed and cut motor mount by removing the insert (look closely at pics on Kentech's blog)... Like it, will be a new car for me soon then!

Ed
Had to look very closely. Looks like it screws in from underneath. That is a really clever, neat solution.

It'd be great to get the new car, of course, but

with a little handy Dremel work and purchasing only the new mount (+ poss shock towers) its viable to upgrade the old car without breaking the bank
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:34 AM   #1955
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Had to look very closely. Looks like it screws in from underneath. That is a really clever, neat solution.

It'd be great to get the new car, of course, but

with a little handy Dremel work and purchasing only the new mount (+ poss shock towers) its viable to upgrade the old car without breaking the bank
Yup, compare that to the new Xray 2012 that's just been announced....
NEW chassis designs
NEW redesigned top deck
NEW front shock tower
NEW rear shock tower
NEW upper bulkheads
NEW gear differential
NEW steering blocks
NEW servo saver
NEW ball joints
NEW servo position
NEW optimized shock positions
NEW optimized chassis flex
NEW roll center positions

After all those years of "optimising" still not managed it....
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:58 AM   #1956
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Yup, compare that to the new Xray 2012 that's just been announced....
NEW chassis designs
NEW redesigned top deck
NEW front shock tower
NEW rear shock tower
NEW upper bulkheads
NEW gear differential
NEW steering blocks
NEW servo saver
NEW ball joints
NEW servo position
NEW optimized shock positions
NEW optimized chassis flex
NEW roll center positions

After all those years of "optimising" still not managed it....
So basically, for more money, (+60GBP alloy shocks eh?) you can have a copy of a Tamiya
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:01 AM   #1957
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Cant wait for the new mount, will help with achieving the right FDR for 21.5 blinky i am running. Cant get it with the current mount without modifying.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:34 AM   #1958
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yup it looks like it would be cheap to upgrade. The motor mount isnt really needed for anyone who has found a cut mount to be better and doenst need to adjust it to run a different gear range (why would you run it locked, if after you had cut one it ran better). Although if you travel tolots of circuits it is great to be able to choose if you want it split or not.

The other upgrades are very minor, I already have a cut top deck.

Its a nice set of refinements, and if a part breaks etc I will update to the newer parts, just goes to show how good the car is already.
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:22 PM   #1959
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i'm sorry guys, i must be a little slow. i've looked & looked but can't find any pictures of the cut motor mount,steering rack ,etc. can someone please put it up here so i can just click on it. thanks
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:59 PM   #1960
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in 3-6 months xray will have another new car out. still with plastic shocks
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Old 10-01-2011, 04:56 AM   #1961
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Here's some pics of my steering setup.

First two pictures show how much servo horn cant I use... a fair bit more than the manual 5. Also shows that I move the servo 1mm forward (shims between the servo and servo mounts second picture), and I also push the ball joint on the servo horn forward an extra 1mm. This helps to make the drag link straight at full lock, for a little better resolution of the steering.
Under the ball joint on the steering cross brace, I use a 2mm shim (different to the manual 1mm), as this means you can get full lock on the steering, as the ball joint doesn't protrude underneath the cross brace, hitting the bell cranks at full lock.

Next two pics show the link lengths I use. The drag link length is from the middle of the ball joints, as I've had to trim the ball cups.

Last picture shows the angle of the steering using the setup gauges. Just push the toe-plate all the right. Using the previous method for setting up the steering, I get 25 showing on the plate each side. Because the toe plate isn't perpendicular to the car, that translates into much more real overall wheel angle.

HiH
Ed
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Tamiya TRF417-overall-steering.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-overall-steering-2.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-toe-link-length.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-drag-link-length.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-steering-angle-setting.jpg  

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Old 10-01-2011, 11:30 AM   #1962
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Ed,

Do you have any issue with the shocks?

The piston on mine needs to be replaced quite often (2 race old)... otherwise it run out of shape.... and my spool cup too.....needs to be replaced frequently. though running on 10.5t only.
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:41 PM   #1963
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tryhard, thanks a ton.very cool, great pictures,descriptions. funny how a picture tells a thousand words. anyone got something on the motor mount?
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:55 PM   #1964
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Here's some pics of my steering setup.

First two pictures show how much servo horn cant I use... a fair bit more than the manual 5. Also shows that I move the servo 1mm forward (shims between the servo and servo mounts second picture), and I also push the ball joint on the servo horn forward an extra 1mm. This helps to make the drag link straight at full lock, for a little better resolution of the steering.
Under the ball joint on the steering cross brace, I use a 2mm shim (different to the manual 1mm), as this means you can get full lock on the steering, as the ball joint doesn't protrude underneath the cross brace, hitting the bell cranks at full lock.

Next two pics show the link lengths I use. The drag link length is from the middle of the ball joints, as I've had to trim the ball cups.

Last picture shows the angle of the steering using the setup gauges. Just push the toe-plate all the right. Using the previous method for setting up the steering, I get 25 showing on the plate each side. Because the toe plate isn't perpendicular to the car, that translates into much more real overall wheel angle.

HiH
Ed
Cheers Ed

This is great and very helpful, also also have the same issue with uneven steering lock and this will help resolve me issues!!

Cheers
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:16 AM   #1965
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Ed,

Do you have any issue with the shocks?

The piston on mine needs to be replaced quite often (2 race old)... otherwise it run out of shape.... and my spool cup too.....needs to be replaced frequently. though running on 10.5t only.
Spool cups... Ditch the plastic ones and get hold of a set of Roche spring steel ones. I've been running them for a while now, and even having been running only modified, they have zero wear. Very impressed.

As for the pistons... Don't push too hard on them when you put the c-clip on. There ain't a huge amount of material outside the holes, so very easy too deform them if you press down on the piston trying to squeeze on the clip
Otherwise, stop hitting stuff
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