the greek

only in the 1st gen 417. 2nd gen doesn't include them.

Starteur

iTrader: (1)

I had a little mishap with the boards, bent my 1XA block
Can I run split 1XA blocks in the front portion of the rear of the car?

I know some guys run them in the rear portion of the front of the car for strenght but I would like to do the same for the rear.

Thanks

CL

iTrader: (34)

Yes.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

I was told by a reliable source that using split blocks in the back will increase rear grip because the split blocks allow the chassis to flex more in the back! FYI

Just my 2$

transplantlife

iTrader: (47)

+1 i use split blocks in front and felt it gave the car more steering

Qatmix

I have moved across to using split blocks in the front and rear (1C and 1XA) and the car felt much better with foams on carpet. So good in fact that I won the A final.

Starteur

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot guys .

I'll be runing them front and back!

Regards

halayli

Hi there,

I finished assembling my new trf417 and I have few questions:

1. Regarding the steering, even though I adjusted the adjustment rod to the exact same measurements, I can still see that the right wheel is a little bit more to the right than the left wheel. Has anyone had the same issue and had to make one rod longer to fix it? Also, even though the servo was exactly at neutral at the time I installed the handle but i still had to trim a lot for the wheels to point straight, and again that was following the manual's measurements. Is that normal?

2. I noticed that the rear wheels wiggle a little bit, I am not sure if it's the wheel itself that is not a perfect disk or something else. Should I worry about?

3. Finally, I had to install around 3 0.1mm shims on the rear wheels because the axis was playing a it, I was able to wiggle it in and out without the shims. Should I keep them?

Sorry my questions are basic, but I am relatively new to this hobby.

rcnewb2004

Hi Halayli,

I am not an expert here and haven't built a trf417 before (i have built a 3 tamiya cars before though), anyways here are my suggestions (please correct me if i am wrong other more knowledgeable forum members):

1. Use calipers to check that your rods are the same length from center of the ball cup to center of the ball cup. Sometimes I also check by eye, but quickly counting the threads (if there are not too many) u should be within 1 thread.

2. I do not know how much wriggle there is based on ur description but a bit of "wriggle room" is always designed in RC cars because it allows the parts to give a little when under a crash. If there is no give, parts could break more easily. Check the manual if u have forgotten any parts if there is too much play and ofcourse you can progressively shim more and more until you feel the car responds well to your shimming.

3. I am not too sure what you are describing here, but make sure that the "hexagon" indent at the center of the wheel fits perfectly over the hexagon hub and that you have tightened the nut (which holds the wheel against the hub) properly.

if you are referring to the axles themselves having a tiny bit of play longitudinally, they are suppose to allow for suspension travel. The axles may "tilt" to compensate.

(I hope I am being clear... but I am running on 3 hrs of sleep).

Hope that helps.

halayli

Thanks for your detailed response!

1. Yes I used calipers to check the length. I am measuring from the inner edge of each adjuster, according to the picture, the gap between the adjusters should be 28.3mm but the only way I got the two wheels to point at the same angle was to have one at 28.3 and the other at 30.8. Which is odd.

2. It's a little bit of wriggle I guess I can ignore it for now as you said a bit of wriggle room is intentional.

3. Yes, I made sure the hexagon indent at the center of the wheel, but I think the wheels are not 100% perfectly circled. On the other hand, I had to add more shims than mentioned in the manual between the small shaft and the wheel axle so that the wheel axle doesn't move in and out a lot.

Basically, I don't know if my adjustments outside of whats mentioned in the manual is normal thing to do when setting up the car (like in 1.)

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi Halayi,
In response to your questions;

Personally, I ignore the instructions when it comes to setting up the steering, more than anything because some servo's put the spline further away from the centre of the car than others, meaning the link will always be off. I also cant the horn over more than the manual says, so to make the horn and link at a perpendicular angle when in the centre. This (if i recall rightly) makes the link a lot shorter, so much so trimming the ball cups is needed, but does give equal L-R steering. Takes a bit of time to setup, but once done, the EPA's on the handset rarely need more than a few % difference.
Don't worry about using a lot of trim to get it right (as long as it is sub-trim), IMO it's more important to get the locks right side to side, and this will require some fiddling with the links and sub trim to get right.

I'll try and hunt down the post somewhere of the method I use... thought I had it too hand, but it might be in the 416 thread tbh, need to go looking!

Pretty normal, I wouldn't worry too much unless it's causing a very big vibration at speed.

If I remember right, I use 0.2mm shims on the axles to help reduce play. But you don't want to shim all the play out, as that can cause binding as well... a bit of play means it's free, which also means it's fast (to a point obviously!)

No problem at all, it's what we're here for

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Couldn't find my old post on here... so put one up on my site instead, least will make it easier to remember where it is!!

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=464

Regards
Ed

halayli

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation and the link, very helpful ... I'll follow the instructions and let you know if it didn't work out

halayli

Ok so here's the problem I am facing, no matter what I do, unless I change the link attachment on the right to be longer, the right wheel will always point outward more than the left as shown in the picture attached.

I am 100% sure that the link attachments are exactly the same length as I have measured them several times using a caliper and I also tried to swap them with no difference.

Logically the link attachments must be the same length. Any suggestions to solve this issue?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Firstly... put the links on the rear holes on the hubs... this will make the steering better, trust me

Next, with the links the same lengths... adjust your servo sub-trim on your transmitter so the steering is in the middle. If the horn cants more towards the centre of the car, don't worry.
The other option is to length the link between the servo horn and the steering, so it becomes more central.

You can actually see in that shot that the bell-cranks are pointing to the left of the car, hence why it looks like the right wheel is steering more to the right.

Just have a play around with it, and get a feel for what adjusting each thing does to the steering.

This weekend I'm on holiday, so I'll try and add some pics to the guide to help.

Regards
Ed