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Old 08-22-2011, 12:28 AM   #1831
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I use the square 416 bumper guard on my car (tight indoor carpet track). Its pretty good at stopping and breakages at the front end.

The ta05 plastic hubs are ok if you are running 13.5t or below you just wont get the speed necessary to incur flex. I have used both and not noticed any difference in lap times.
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:36 AM   #1832
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
So you guys won't run aluminum c-hubs 'cause you're scared they might bend, but you're okay running the rubber TA05 bits that flex 20 degrees with no load at all?
Absolutely! at least I know there flexing ... whereas with the alloy, I have had it before where it's been bloody difficult to see any bend until stripping them off the car.
At least with a plastic, if it's broke, you know about it

Having said that, never tried the Parma T2 bumper solution, although the carbon c-hubs are a lot more beefy than they used to be as well, so probably the bumper would be fine.

Anyway, on another point, I've finally got round to updating the 417 things to know list on my massively neglected site... I promise I'm going to try and keep it a bit more updated, I've got plenty of setups I need to put up there as well! If anyone's got any other tips, feel free to add them in!

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Last edited by TryHard; 08-22-2011 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:48 AM   #1833
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I would be happy with something in the middle of the stock reinforced piece and the way too flexible piece. Since that is not available, I am open to ideas. Where can I find the "Square aluminum c-hubs" from? I thought the front bumper was already hard compared to my previous experience with the hard front bumper I had on my t3'11s, but I will go ahead an pick up a Parma bumper and try it out. Maybe the harder bumper is all that is needed?
earlier in this thread i posted up my findings running EVO hub carriers, which are made from a less fragile plastic, but much beefier in design so they dont flex.

i had to remove .7mm of material at the top under side and run the king pin/spacer different to factory to correct roll centre.

the EVO hubs are like 3 bux and are very durable. i modded 3 pairs but have yet to go thru the first pair. I also ran them with modded 416 knuckles, i had to dremel them out to accept the 417 clip pin cvd's. ended up with a cheap as chips setup that doesnt flex and carry on and its tuff.
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Old 08-23-2011, 02:06 PM   #1834
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417 w/gear diffs back in stock!
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:17 PM   #1835
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417 gear diff pulley cases and outdrives too....
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:35 AM   #1836
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Thank you for posting this however it seems the setup doesn't include all the information? Shocks and such aren't filled out?
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:50 AM   #1837
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Thank you for posting this however it seems the setup doesn't include all the information? Shocks and such aren't filled out?
+1
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:20 AM   #1838
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Thank you for posting this however it seems the setup doesn't include all the information? Shocks and such aren't filled out?
The linked pdf does seem strange, you have to click on some areas to dislpay the hidden text. I would instead go to http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/set...gory/34-trf417 and select the 5th one down 'TRF417_JGroskamp Snowbirds'.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:38 AM   #1839
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Hi all

When servicing my car I noticed the end of the pulley plate (blue disc) had become detached from the pulley and was just wobbling around on the layshaft.

When I built the car I did shim it differently to the instructions(the pulleys rubbed on the top deck if I did that) anyone else had this problem? Or not shimmed the pulleys like the instructions.

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Old 08-29-2011, 09:18 AM   #1840
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Hi just had the same "problem" on last saturday. I built the car like the instruction said.

I just rebuilt the blue pulley for now, I see if it's enough during the next sunday as I have a race.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:52 AM   #1841
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thanks for that, hopefully our fixes will work

I reheated the disc over a stove and then fitted it back on the pulley so it contracted against the pulley.

Its wierd as the rest of the car looks almost new including the drive shaft protectors as we are running 13.5 blinky at our club now.
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:25 AM   #1842
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please can someone tell me if the first generation 417(ball diff gen) uses 46 or 44mm driveshafts? i started building a second gen 417 and it has 44mm driveshafts. i thought that gen 1 has 46mm.
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:42 AM   #1843
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please can someone tell me if the first generation 417(ball diff gen) uses 46 or 44mm driveshafts? i started building a second gen 417 and it has 44mm driveshafts. i thought that gen 1 has 46mm.
The '1st release' 417 comes with 44mm shafts front & rear.

If using the front spool, 46mm steel shafts are a recommended upgrade, but I found that 46mm shafts are bit tight when using a gear diff (front or rear), so use 44mm.
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:42 AM   #1844
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please can someone tell me if the first generation 417(ball diff gen) uses 46 or 44mm driveshafts? i started building a second gen 417 and it has 44mm driveshafts. i thought that gen 1 has 46mm.
TRF417 uses all 44mm driveshafts. Only the older TRF416 uses 46mm driveshafts.
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:33 AM   #1845
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The '1st release' 417 comes with 44mm shafts front & rear.

If using the front spool, 46mm steel shafts are a recommended upgrade, but I found that 46mm shafts are bit tight when using a gear diff (front or rear), so use 44mm.
+1

I always use 46mm on the front with a spool, much more reliable
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