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Old 07-31-2011, 07:19 PM   #1756
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Doe anyone know what type of inner forward arm mounts those are on marcs car? my car comes std with a single 1xa mount rather than two single peices.


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tamiya # 54171, 54172, 54173, 54174, 54175
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:20 PM   #1757
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TA05 2pc mounts. The part numbers were linked a page or two back.

I've got a couple of nearly unusable gear diffs 'cause the blades break so easily and destroy the outdrives.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:38 PM   #1758
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TA05 2pc mounts. The part numbers were linked a page or two back.

I've got a couple of nearly unusable gear diffs 'cause the blades break so easily and destroy the outdrives.
Hmm..

Do they break in a crash? I've run the Spec-R and Tamiya gear diffs and haven't broken a single blade. They're definitely not the strongest, but under normal conditions, they shouldn't be breaking. Maybe something is binding on your car.

- Jose
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:02 AM   #1759
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Honestly, they just wear out. They rub very thin where the pins are and then start scoring the outdrives.

Now that you mention it, I think maybe I've got 44mm steel in the rear. I bet 42mm aluminum would be a better choice.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:36 AM   #1760
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Honestly, they just wear out. They rub very thin where the pins are and then start scoring the outdrives.

Now that you mention it, I think maybe I've got 44mm steel in the rear. I bet 42mm aluminum would be a better choice.

Gotcha ... I did have that happen on my TA05 outdrives before. The blades seemed to be made of a softer material back then. I threw them out and stuck with the 416 and up blades and haven't had the problem since.

Anyone try the 3Racing blades?
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:56 AM   #1761
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My Diff >>> 125000cc oil diff
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:12 AM   #1762
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With a little trimming, the XRAY ones work well and are more durable.
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:13 PM   #1763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Gotcha ... I did have that happen on my TA05 outdrives before. The blades seemed to be made of a softer material back then. I threw them out and stuck with the 416 and up blades and haven't had the problem since.

Anyone try the 3Racing blades?
i'm running spec-r since i can't get hold of the Tamiya's. it holds little bit longer than the originals.
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:29 PM   #1764
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The XRay gear diff fits? Is the pulley right? That's SUPER tempting, especially if you can use XRay blades.

I've got the Spec-R's back in my car for tonight to see if the blades hold up any better. I don't remember breaking nearly as many.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:12 PM   #1765
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Tbh, I've only had an issue with the blades when I hit something! Last weekend kept rubbing the outside wall onto the straight, and had to replace the left rear blade twice during the day.
Otherwise, my Spec-R diffs are working fine, with 1000wt in the rear (which in all honesty needs topping up once a day or so), and 500K in the front. Then again, at the moment, I've got my car setup for a HUGE amount of steering!

I went to the high traction indoor track last weekend and ran through another boat load of settings. I won't bore you all (this time ) with all the details, but some findings were;
  • 1D/1B on the front helps to give more steering versus 1C/1B, but wants to carry on turning on exit. 0.5mm anti dive helped to stop this (and make the car better on the brakes!)
  • Played around with the steering brace again... went 0.3s a lap quicker on old boots when I took it off at the end of the day, and the car felt smooth to drive. I think it's down to now running the brace on the split front blocks (picture attached), where before without that brace, I always preferred with the steering brace..
  • Wanted to get more rotation out of the car in the middle of the corner, so I tried going to 2.5mm on the rear wheelbase.. won't be trying that again in a hurry! Might try moving all weight back a little (1.5/2.5), or just lengthen the front... but shortening the rear was scary!
  • More rear droop - More steering, and more stable on the quick left/right flicks
  • Losi 45wt all round is spot on for that track.. 0.5s quicker than 50wt
  • Front shock out one hole on the tower was better on old tyres, so will hold that in reserve for racing this weekend.
  • I wish every company would pre-glue tyres, I suck at it...

Anyway, race day is tomorrow... very happy with how the car is, and pretty sure I'll be able to put it on the track and drive the wheels off it. Was less than 0.2s off my fastest lap so far at that track, and it was nowhere as good condition as before. I know for sure two guys who beat me last time won't be there, so a podium is a definite possibility.

Attached the setup sheet for anyone interested

Cheers
Ed
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File Type: pdf EC - RCI - 310711.pdf (247.1 KB, 217 views)
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:03 AM   #1766
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Hey Ed what do you use for shims under the split blocks.

Rhys
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:00 AM   #1767
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I'm thinking about buying the new 417 with gear diff & was wondering if anyone can tell me which online shop has the best price?
Also is the 417 made in Japan or in China like most other kits?

Cheers Azza..
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:02 AM   #1768
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Why is it so difficult to find Tamiya parts online? Demand?Supply?
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:03 AM   #1769
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Thats easy Speedtech ask for Jeff or albert 626-237-0807
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:05 AM   #1770
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Just call Speedtech they have most of the parts you are looking for. If they don't have it today they will get it in a few days shipping is the best. They don't play around over there. Ask me I should know I'm always on the phone with them. Shipping from Cali. to NY 2-3 days the most..
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