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Old 07-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #1741
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To adjust rear toe, which block do I need to change? I see that different combinations can give the same toe but different track widths. I'm thinking, to keep it more simple, is to adjust width with hexes and shims and to use the blocks just for toe adjustment. Right now I'm running 1XA and 1E in the rear.
The thing to remember is that if you adjust the width with shims and so on, you also change the offset of the wheels to the hub.. so it's not quite as simple.

It does depend on how much toe you want to take out of the car... if it's a full degree, it's quite easy (go 1X/1D for 2). If you only want to adjust the toe a little, then just try a 1D block on the rear, and leave everything else as is. That will give 2.5.

If I'm adjusting toe, I'll do the rear block first, then the front. Thats mainly because the rear block is easier to change!

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Old 07-26-2011, 07:39 AM   #1742
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The thing to remember is that if you adjust the width with shims and so on, you also change the offset of the wheels to the hub.. so it's not quite as simple.

It does depend on how much toe you want to take out of the car... if it's a full degree, it's quite easy (go 1X/1D for 2). If you only want to adjust the toe a little, then just try a 1D block on the rear, and leave everything else as is. That will give 2.5.

If I'm adjusting toe, I'll do the rear block first, then the front. Thats mainly because the rear block is easier to change!

HiH
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I'm so confused. 1X/1D has 2 of toe out according to the chart on your site. On the other side, 1XA/1D = 2.5 toe out? Why couldn't I just keep my 1XA front block and just change the rear accordingly?

Also, what is the typical range for rear and front track widths? I'm using Jilles 2010 Snowbirds setup if that helps...
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:36 AM   #1743
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I'm so confused. 1X/1D has 2 of toe out according to the chart on your site. On the other side, 1XA/1D = 2.5 toe out? Why couldn't I just keep my 1XA front block and just change the rear accordingly?

Also, what is the typical range for rear and front track widths? I'm using Jilles 2010 Snowbirds setup if that helps...
Hi Dane,

If you go 1X/1D you keep the car the same width as the 1XA/1E combo, but with a degree less toe. Think of it of taking half a degree out of each end.
If you went to a 1XA/1C combo (again, 2 toe), the rear track would be about (I think!) 1mm or so narrower than the 1XA/1E, which can also affect how the car grips and rotates at the rear (I always found a narrower rear end to be more unstable on entry, quick rotation middle, but then push more on exit)

My personal preference would be to try and keep it the same as the kit settings, but if you have the time, could be worth testing which suits you better

HiH
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:00 AM   #1744
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Ran my 417 for the first time last night and was happy with its first outing.

A little loose mid or exit on slow corners but fast sweepers were great.

I did notice on full lock it was very chattery in the front shafts, has anybody else noticed this?
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:07 AM   #1745
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All cars that i have driven using a spool up front are chattery when on full lock.
When using a one way or diff you don't have it.
Nature of the design i believe.

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
Ran my 417 for the first time last night and was happy with its first outing.

A little loose mid or exit on slow corners but fast sweepers were great.

I did notice on full lock it was very chattery in the front shafts, has anybody else noticed this?
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:43 PM   #1746
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Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
Ran my 417 for the first time last night and was happy with its first outing.

A little loose mid or exit on slow corners but fast sweepers were great.

I did notice on full lock it was very chattery in the front shafts, has anybody else noticed this?
As mentioned, all cars with spool (unless they use something like the Xray ECS driveshafts) will have chatter. But I think the chatter is much less in the Tamiya, compared to Xray with standard driveshafts.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:26 PM   #1747
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thanks for the feedback about the shafts, just didnt notice it on my 416, thats why i asked

but very happy with its first outing, just have to play with setup a little compared to my 416.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:34 PM   #1748
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intersting bits from 3Racing XI... wondering if they'll fit in the 417...

roll center adjusters...


vertical motor mount...
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:18 AM   #1749
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I always found a narrower rear end to be more unstable on entry, quick rotation middle, but then push more on exit
That's interesting, on the old car I always found X looser through the whole corner than XA regardless of the rear block
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:59 PM   #1750
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Originally Posted by Tron View Post
Is there a better driveshaft blade that can be used on the 417 shafts? The Tamiya ones are soft and wear too quickly.

Has anyone used xray blades? Maybe you have to dremel the outdrives to fit them but maybe a better option??
How about these:

http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=8992

I think the stock plastic blades are too brittle. They snapped when you hit something hard.
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Old 07-30-2011, 12:48 AM   #1751
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I have been getting mine to work as a foam car indoors, I wont lie its been a little bit of a struggle and I got close to thinking about either getting a 3.5mm chassis made from Fibrelyte or just selling it. I cant believe how soft the car is!

However I dont give up easily, and its really starting to get there now, this week the car was amazing and it was only my thumbs that were letting me down from winning every heat.

I have a few more tweaks, and then I should be able to post a foam indoor set-up.
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Old 07-30-2011, 02:12 AM   #1752
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Hi guys,

Quick question. I know on the 416 that it was necessary to use shims in between the upper and lower bulkheads. Is it still necessary in the 417? I have done it so far, but they are a pain in the butt
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:35 AM   #1753
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
Hi guys,

Quick question. I know on the 416 that it was necessary to use shims in between the upper and lower bulkheads. Is it still necessary in the 417? I have done it so far, but they are a pain in the butt
To be honest, I don't think they are. I started out using them on the 7, but then have stopped, and I can still move the bearing holder a little. I guess the tolerances between the upper and lower were revised slightly.

HiH
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:56 AM   #1754
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Anyone know where the gear diff version of the kit can be bought from at the moment? They appear out of stock almost everywhere.
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:57 PM   #1755
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Originally Posted by Smartypants View Post
from ets Apeldoorn showing cut top deck at rear also.

Doe anyone know what type of inner forward arm mounts those are on marcs car? my car comes std with a single 1xa mount rather than two single peices.
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