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Old 07-16-2011, 05:39 PM   #1726
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Can somebody tell me what weight oil come in the tamiya geared diff.v2
Thanks
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Old 07-16-2011, 10:38 PM   #1727
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900.
It has been mentioned before here

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
Can somebody tell me what weight oil come in the tamiya geared diff.v2
Thanks
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:08 AM   #1728
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Thumbs up Tamiya TRF417 Ceramic Bearings

We have released our Tamiya TRF 417 Ceramic Ball Bearing Kit. Higher speeds, greater snap, and greater durability. $99.99 with FREE shipping worldwide.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:44 AM   #1729
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What do you guys do for your foam bumper? The Tamiya one is really too soft to protect the front end. I've been using the Parma T2 bumpers, but they tend to rub on the edges and upset the car in the sweeper. I'm constantly trimming them to keep the rub at a minimum.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:04 AM   #1730
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Stop hitting things??
Just kidding

Don't have any problems with the stock Tamiya foam bumpers

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
What do you guys do for your foam bumper? The Tamiya one is really too soft to protect the front end. I've been using the Parma T2 bumpers, but they tend to rub on the edges and upset the car in the sweeper. I'm constantly trimming them to keep the rub at a minimum.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:26 AM   #1731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
What do you guys do for your foam bumper? The Tamiya one is really too soft to protect the front end. I've been using the Parma T2 bumpers, but they tend to rub on the edges and upset the car in the sweeper. I'm constantly trimming them to keep the rub at a minimum.
I've been using a combination of the SQUARE's hard plastic guard and the Parma's T2 foam bumper with great success. The SQUARE guard is a direct fit with no need for modification. It'll remedy your issue of the foam edges rubbing on sweepers/turns and will keep suspension breakage to a minimum as the plastic guard sticks out further.

The edges of the plastic guard with bend down over time (due to hitting the curbs). Just flip it over when this happens and you'll be good to go.

The item can be found here.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:10 AM   #1732
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Originally Posted by acerracing View Post
We have released our Tamiya TRF 417 Ceramic Ball Bearing Kit. Higher speeds, greater snap, and greater durability. $99.99 with FREE shipping worldwide.
Greater Snap WTF lol! Oh and a lighter wallet!
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Old 07-23-2011, 10:52 PM   #1733
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Is there a better driveshaft blade that can be used on the 417 shafts? The Tamiya ones are soft and wear too quickly.

Has anyone used xray blades? Maybe you have to dremel the outdrives to fit them but maybe a better option??
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:43 PM   #1734
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Perhaps the 3Racing blades are a option??
If you use the Xray, you need to dremel out the outdrives to get them to fit.

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by Tron View Post
Is there a better driveshaft blade that can be used on the 417 shafts? The Tamiya ones are soft and wear too quickly.

Has anyone used xray blades? Maybe you have to dremel the outdrives to fit them but maybe a better option??
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:35 AM   #1735
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I never had trouble with the Tamiya blades until we started using gear diffs. Now they seem to get beat up pretty bad, especially in the front. I've got a couple of outdrives that are tore up. Hopefully they start selling those separately.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:41 AM   #1736
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What about specR's ones ? Better ? someone tried it ?
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:04 AM   #1737
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Hey All,

Well just had two weekends of decent practise, at two completely different tracks. Now pretty happy with how I've got the 7 dialled, although still struggle a little to decide which way to go on the camber links at one of the tracks... anyway.

First up, went to the big 8th gas track not far from Downtown shanghai. Track temp was well above 65C, so it was hooooot (i was melting in the pits!). Anyway, ran through a program of testing stuff like cut top deck, back-backs on bodyshell, camber link positions, and also wheelbase. Struggled all day to stop the rears overheating after about 3mins, but that is mostly down to running Powers36's when I really should have found some 40's!

Anyway some thoughts after that day...
Thicker shock oil is massively the way forward in that heat (ok, duh, but it's nice to prove the theory ). Switched out the shocks from MM500 to Losi50, and it even only using the calibrated hand could I tell the tyres weren't heating up as much after a run, and the performance was simply better throughout the run.

Trying the cut top deck was a bit more interesting. I was expecting quite a big change to how the car was performing, but actually it was more subtle. The car had a little more rear bite (so perfect to help when the tyres got hot), and overall a little more all-round grip... but it didn't turn into the flopy unresponsive monster I was expecting! For that track, I'll certainly be using that deck as my base setup for the future.

I did also again try the steering brace out, seems to work better in combination with the cut top deck. Before I've never liked it as I personally think it gives a wooley feel to the steering, and seems inconsistent to drive. However that didn't appear to happen with the cut deck (or maybe I'm just imagining things! )

Last thing I did try was moving the whole wheelbase back 0.5mm (so 0.5 behind front arm, 3.5 in front of rear, and 1.5mm on the ackerman), and this also had a good positive effect, seemingly making the car a bit more stable.

Didn't get round to trying the spilt blocks, or the front gear diff (simply ran out of time, and can't find a split 1XA anywhere!), but quite happy with how the car was going on a lowish traction, very hot track.

Now this past weekend I went to the very high traction, indoor asphalt track which I had struggled at last time with traction rolling.

Anyway, started out with the same setup as before (D/B up front, gear diff, standard wheelbase, standard top deck), with the exception of keeping the Losi50wt in the shocks. Overall the car was good, over-rotating a bit on the exit as previously, but a lot more settled (although the traction wasn't as high)... i guess another "dur" moment there.

Still tried out a little less front sweep, going from D/B to C/B and that helped to stop the exit overrotation. The front end also felt a bit more planted and in the long left hander in the middle, was much more consistent, hitting the apex much more regularly. Tick the box for an improvement...

Next up I wanted to try the cut top deck again, and see how it felt on a much higher traction surface. As previously, gained rear end traction, but this time the car had become much harder to drive consistently, with the feeling it was to hook in one lap, and washing wide the next. Also felt that the car was more unresponsive too... or in other words, as you would expect ("dur" no3 ). Laptimes showed that, as the consistency dropped, although the fastest was similar.

Anyway, I did run out of time to test much more stuff, apart from trying the standard top deck with no steering brace (still not convinced) as I switched my attention to testing out a prototype motor for the rest of the day.

I did notice that the was steadily moving towards increased rear traction on entry the whole time I was motor testing, and I'm putting that down to old tyres/changing track, but I have some ideas of how to sort this.

Apologies for the long and rambling post, but well... I'm bored in the office, and it's 36C outside, so there's no way I'm leaving it anytime soon

HiH
Ed
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:09 AM   #1738
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Actually... I forgot to add something...

I've been trying out the Tune-Up RC steel outdrives on my spool, and well, at the moment, not so impressed.
The set I've been running were brand new, and after one day with a 4.5t, already are notched bad enough that I had to sand them down to slide the bearing off!

I am using steel 44mm driveshafts, but given they were lubed up before use, thats not brilliant wear!

I'll be looking to get some Roche ones and see how they compare instead...
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:22 AM   #1739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hey All,

Well just had two weekends of decent practise, at two completely different tracks. Now pretty happy with how I've got the 7 dialled, although still struggle a little to decide which way to go on the camber links at one of the tracks... anyway.

First up, went to the big 8th gas track not far from Downtown shanghai. Track temp was well above 65C, so it was hooooot (i was melting in the pits!). Anyway, ran through a program of testing stuff like cut top deck, back-backs on bodyshell, camber link positions, and also wheelbase. Struggled all day to stop the rears overheating after about 3mins, but that is mostly down to running Powers36's when I really should have found some 40's!

Anyway some thoughts after that day...
Thicker shock oil is massively the way forward in that heat (ok, duh, but it's nice to prove the theory ). Switched out the shocks from MM500 to Losi50, and it even only using the calibrated hand could I tell the tyres weren't heating up as much after a run, and the performance was simply better throughout the run.

Trying the cut top deck was a bit more interesting. I was expecting quite a big change to how the car was performing, but actually it was more subtle. The car had a little more rear bite (so perfect to help when the tyres got hot), and overall a little more all-round grip... but it didn't turn into the flopy unresponsive monster I was expecting! For that track, I'll certainly be using that deck as my base setup for the future.

I did also again try the steering brace out, seems to work better in combination with the cut top deck. Before I've never liked it as I personally think it gives a wooley feel to the steering, and seems inconsistent to drive. However that didn't appear to happen with the cut deck (or maybe I'm just imagining things! )

Last thing I did try was moving the whole wheelbase back 0.5mm (so 0.5 behind front arm, 3.5 in front of rear, and 1.5mm on the ackerman), and this also had a good positive effect, seemingly making the car a bit more stable.

Didn't get round to trying the spilt blocks, or the front gear diff (simply ran out of time, and can't find a split 1XA anywhere!), but quite happy with how the car was going on a lowish traction, very hot track.

Now this past weekend I went to the very high traction, indoor asphalt track which I had struggled at last time with traction rolling.

Anyway, started out with the same setup as before (D/B up front, gear diff, standard wheelbase, standard top deck), with the exception of keeping the Losi50wt in the shocks. Overall the car was good, over-rotating a bit on the exit as previously, but a lot more settled (although the traction wasn't as high)... i guess another "dur" moment there.

Still tried out a little less front sweep, going from D/B to C/B and that helped to stop the exit overrotation. The front end also felt a bit more planted and in the long left hander in the middle, was much more consistent, hitting the apex much more regularly. Tick the box for an improvement...

Next up I wanted to try the cut top deck again, and see how it felt on a much higher traction surface. As previously, gained rear end traction, but this time the car had become much harder to drive consistently, with the feeling it was to hook in one lap, and washing wide the next. Also felt that the car was more unresponsive too... or in other words, as you would expect ("dur" no3 ). Laptimes showed that, as the consistency dropped, although the fastest was similar.

Anyway, I did run out of time to test much more stuff, apart from trying the standard top deck with no steering brace (still not convinced) as I switched my attention to testing out a prototype motor for the rest of the day.

I did notice that the was steadily moving towards increased rear traction on entry the whole time I was motor testing, and I'm putting that down to old tyres/changing track, but I have some ideas of how to sort this.

Apologies for the long and rambling post, but well... I'm bored in the office, and it's 36C outside, so there's no way I'm leaving it anytime soon

HiH
Ed
Hi Ed, Let me know if you still need the split 1XA I have a new set knocking around in my box that I have no use for currently
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:14 AM   #1740
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To adjust rear toe, which block do I need to change? I see that different combinations can give the same toe but different track widths. I'm thinking, to keep it more simple, is to adjust width with hexes and shims and to use the blocks just for toe adjustment. Right now I'm running 1XA and 1E in the rear.
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