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Old 06-23-2011, 02:11 AM   #1636
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Yeah, I know it's not exactly the same, but these are nearly green. My other titanium ones are just about spot on, it's jus these new ones.. They are still listed as 42120 so I hope they are not all going to be green from now on
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:49 AM   #1637
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
It's a very nice car, and has the predictable, stable feel on the track the Tamiya sometimes lacks. But right now, it's slower. I'm going to put some time in trying out some other setup ideas next week.

In the meantime, the 417 is behaving well enough if I make it push a little and steer with some throttle/brake.
I have both cars also and I must say I agree with you. Quite different personalities. I'd say the cars even need to be driven differently to make the most out of each. Right now my Xray is faster, but last week it was the other way around.

Learning a lot by attempting to tune both cars driving them back to back, looking at laptime, and trying to figure out where and how the time was lost or gained.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:20 AM   #1638
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Little bit random, but I got my titanium turnbuckles today (TRF official ones) and they look green not blue! Anyone else had that? Or are they greeny blue nowadays? (looks aweful on the car.. Shallow I know)
Well over cleaner works well to get the green paint off if you like. Goes silver but will suit better against the blue.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:26 AM   #1639
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So, as in one of my previous posts, I thought I'd try making up a brace to match the stiffness of the one-piece suspension mounts, when using the split suspension mounts.

Thankfully I had a damaged 417 chassis plate that I could use, and cut a thin strip of carbon from it (making it orientated longitudinally for stiffness), drilling a couple of holes using a one-piece mount as a guide. Then using some longer screws on the inner positions, a couple of 0.5mm spacers for belt clearance, bolted it all together.

Only other thing I did was sand some of the corners slightly to a curve, so as to not touch the block and introduce tweak into the chassis.

It's a bit rough and ready, but should do the trick to try and see if I can feel any difference next time out If it works well enough, I'll make one up for the rear of the car as well. I should mention that it does make changing the roll centres a bit of a pain, as you need to use on the flat tamiya nut wrenches to undo the bolts without taking the bulkheads off (they block a nut driver getting in).

Also attaching a picture of my car from last weekend
Interesting idea.... hope to hear from you soon on the response.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:06 PM   #1640
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Just got in more HPI spring sets and a few new Tamiya white gear diffs (Quantities limited!)
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:38 PM   #1641
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
So, as in one of my previous posts, I thought I'd try making up a brace to match the stiffness of the one-piece suspension mounts, when using the split suspension mounts.

Thankfully I had a damaged 417 chassis plate that I could use, and cut a thin strip of carbon from it (making it orientated longitudinally for stiffness), drilling a couple of holes using a one-piece mount as a guide. Then using some longer screws on the inner positions, a couple of 0.5mm spacers for belt clearance, bolted it all together.

Only other thing I did was sand some of the corners slightly to a curve, so as to not touch the block and introduce tweak into the chassis.

It's a bit rough and ready, but should do the trick to try and see if I can feel any difference next time out If it works well enough, I'll make one up for the rear of the car as well. I should mention that it does make changing the roll centres a bit of a pain, as you need to use on the flat tamiya nut wrenches to undo the bolts without taking the bulkheads off (they block a nut driver getting in).

Also attaching a picture of my car from last weekend
Can I ask what is the benefit of using this brace and split blocks over just using the standard 1 piece?
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #1642
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The new gear diff seems pretty great. It's so... white. The plastic they used for the housing is unusual. I built it like Jilles suggested, with 3 shims and the crown gears filed down flat. No issues in 17.5. I'll test it out with some mod next week.
Did you notice any performance or feel difference between the 42197 whitey clear gear diff and the Spec-R??

-Brett (who is also slower with his xray)
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:40 PM   #1643
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Originally Posted by FunkyDunky View Post
Can I ask what is the benefit of using this brace and split blocks over just using the standard 1 piece?
The one-piece is meant to give a little less chassis flex over the two piece ones, however previously I've never noticed a difference (probably more down to driver than anything else!), and given I still have the occasional tendency to hit things very hard, the split blocks are just a lot more reliable as they don't bend like the one-piece ones do.

Anyway, if I can run the split ones with the same stiffness as the one-piece (and I notice a difference this time around!), then winner, certainly for the local track

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Old 06-23-2011, 09:09 PM   #1644
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Did you notice any performance or feel difference between the 42197 whitey clear gear diff and the Spec-R??

-Brett (who is also slower with his xray)
It's definitely NOT clear. Whatever plastic they were using for prototyping isn't anything like the production piece. It's bright, solid white. Someone said it looks like it was made from toothpaste.

Performance seemed the same. I don't know if it leaks, I had oil everywhere from the spec-r and didn't have time to clean it up.
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:20 AM   #1645
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Looking at the Ta06 it seems like the pulleys should fit into the 417. would there be any benefit from running 39t diff pulleys? The IR would be 2.05 as opposed to 1.94 which it is now.

Would it ensure the belts have more to hold on Mod?
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Last edited by Qatmix; 06-24-2011 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:56 AM   #1646
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we received 3 but are down to 2 instock
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:23 AM   #1647
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Today I tried to keep off the steering brace. I gain a lot of steering, but I dont loose grip on the rear end.
That was on a small medium speed track, medium grip.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:31 AM   #1648
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This weekend I raced on a low-grip track, and just wanted to let you know how it went.

Because of the low-grip, I couldn't get enough steering in the corner, and the car started sliding on the way out. I usually run without the carbon-brace on the steering, without the spacers at the hex in the front, and split-blocks in the front (rest it kit-setup, with gear-diff in the rear (1000cst) and HPI Silver springs).
This wasn't quite enough.

I added another 1mm under the quick-roll-center camber-link. The car somehow got more stable, but a bit more pushy. I then removed the spacer under the 1C-blok in the front, creating anti-dive. That combined with a gear-diff in the front (with 500.000 oil) really did the trick. The car was stable and had plenty of steering.

I used LRP Asphalt additive, with warmers for 40 minutes.

Now I need a bit help from you. The first 5-6 minutes, my car is good and stable, but it does start sliding a bit entering the corner, after that. Any ideas what to try next?
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:53 AM   #1649
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This weekend I raced on a low-grip track, and just wanted to let you know how it went.

Because of the low-grip, I couldn't get enough steering in the corner, and the car started sliding on the way out. I usually run without the carbon-brace on the steering, without the spacers at the hex in the front, and split-blocks in the front (rest it kit-setup, with gear-diff in the rear (1000cst) and HPI Silver springs).
This wasn't quite enough.

I added another 1mm under the quick-roll-center camber-link. The car somehow got more stable, but a bit more pushy. I then removed the spacer under the 1C-blok in the front, creating anti-dive. That combined with a gear-diff in the front (with 500.000 oil) really did the trick. The car was stable and had plenty of steering.

I used LRP Asphalt additive, with warmers for 40 minutes.

Now I need a bit help from you. The first 5-6 minutes, my car is good and stable, but it does start sliding a bit entering the corner, after that. Any ideas what to try next?
If the weather or the track was hot, that's may your tires wich became too hot and slip. Or maybe the 500 000 oil in the front diff became to thin.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #1650
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If the weather or the track was hot, that's may your tires wich became too hot and slip. Or maybe the 500 000 oil in the front diff became to thin.
+1

I never run more than 6 min ˇˇˇ The motor runs hotter and for lipo don´t good.
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