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Old 06-13-2011, 07:03 AM   #1576
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The new white gear dif is already on it's way to me.
Now i have to check and expect it to fail?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

regards Roy
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:16 AM   #1577
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
The new white gear dif is already on it's way to me.
Now i have to check and explect it to fail?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

regards Roy
No, Jilles has already said in his thread that he made a mistake with his shimming. If your running stock motors I wouldn't worry in the slightest!
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:34 AM   #1578
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Originally Posted by Rogier View Post
He also told us (I was there this weekend) that soon there will be a new gear from Tamiya.... Also soon there will be Roche spool-outdrives.
Did you get any body off pictures of Jilles car??
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:36 AM   #1579
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Talking mini's

hey dale how much for those mini's:
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:54 AM   #1580
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Did you get any body off pictures of Jilles car??
Nope. sorry. But he wasn't using the diff mentioned...
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:14 PM   #1581
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Exclamation TRF 417

I know this isn't the right place to ask but I'm looking for a used 417. Reasonably priced would be nice. I'm in So. Cal.
Thanks in advance
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:20 AM   #1582
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Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
I didn't hear of any failures for Reinhard or Wilck at the Reedy, Groskamp has already posted that he shimmed the diff incorrectly at the ETS which caused the failure.
Marc's also failed in Q2, RedRC didn't state what caused it...

Q2 top qualifier Marc Rheinard, who is set to lose his title to Volker at the end of the 2010/11 season, failed to finish the heat after the geardiff in his Tamiya broke.
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:54 AM   #1583
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Hello everyone,

For those who will get the Tamiya geardiff soon, here some tips how to build it.
At the ETS we were not informed how to shim the geardiffs as we just got them for the race. After the race I have checked all diffs and tried to find the best solution.

First use sandpaper ( 500 ) for all gears and sand them down till it touch the whole surface. Then use 3 x 0.1 shim each side.
When close the diff, don't tight the screws too much.
At first the diff feels little bit tight but just run it in, inside the car, same as a ball diff.

Let me know how things are working out,

Thank you,
Jilles
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:36 AM   #1584
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Thanks Jilles

This how i build my gear diffs always.
Whatever make they are
Besides the shimming,as this is brand specific
Untill now i never had a failure,only leaking and this was due to it being a build gear dif from some one else who used the wrong outdrive rubber seals
Got a Spec-R diff(the one that was leaking) and 3 3Racing diffs and now waiting on the new White TRF gear diff

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Hello everyone,

For those who will get the Tamiya geardiff soon, here some tips how to build it.
At the ETS we were not informed how to shim the geardiffs as we just got them for the race. After the race I have checked all diffs and tried to find the best solution.

First use sandpaper ( 500 ) for all gears and sand them down till it touch the whole surface. Then use 3 x 0.1 shim each side.
When close the diff, don't tight the screws too much.
At first the diff feels little bit tight but just run it in, inside the car, same as a ball diff.

Let me know how things are working out,

Thank you,
Jilles
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:59 AM   #1585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Hello everyone,

For those who will get the Tamiya geardiff soon, here some tips how to build it.
At the ETS we were not informed how to shim the geardiffs as we just got them for the race. After the race I have checked all diffs and tried to find the best solution.

First use sandpaper ( 500 ) for all gears and sand them down till it touch the whole surface. Then use 3 x 0.1 shim each side.
When close the diff, don't tight the screws too much.
At first the diff feels little bit tight but just run it in, inside the car, same as a ball diff.

Let me know how things are working out,

Thank you,
Jilles
What oil are you running in them?
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:52 AM   #1586
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Whilst I'm lying here on my couch recovering from a back spasm (nice!), thought I'd just jot down some notes from the testing I did last weekend.

At the moment, I've been making big changes to my car, from the standard default setup I originally go with. Now, most recently i had been running on a large 1:8th gas track, which was low-mid grip levels, so generally tended to reward lots of corner speed, and a stable car.
Over the past few weeks however, I've been running on a much smaller indoor asphalt track, with very good and consistent grip levels. I have also been getting more and more used to the new handset, which i honestly believe has had a positive impact on my driving.

Anyway, just going to run through the changes and justifications below.

Rear gear dff; 2000wt to 1000wt, Car was rotating too much on power on exit, so dropping the oil helped to reduce this. Also positive of more steering into the turns.

Front blocks: 1C/1C to 1D/1B, gives 1 of arm sweep, whilst keeping the track width the same. Took away a little initial, but helped from middle to exit of the corner. Also removed all the 0.5mm anti-dive shims, as stability on the brakes isn't a big deal, and the extra castor helps in the middle.

Front wheelbase shims: 2mm to 1mm. Simply more weight forward, more steering! The new track really is all about steering.

Steering ackerman shim: 3mm to 2mm. Did this in compensation for the shorter wheelbase and arm sweep, to keep the links in the right place.

Steering brace; Brace on to removed. Again, seemed to give a bit more overall steering, albeit with a slightly more numb steering feel. Little change to the tranny expo helped to solve that.

Inner camber links; Hole 3 (longest) to hole 2 (middle), 4F/3R to 5F/4R shims. Just gave overall less roll, quicker reaction, and more grip. Instantly went 0.1s faster a lap doing this change.
(I did try in the last run of the day using less shims again (4F/3R) to get quicker reaction into the corners. Although whilst I did actually set consistently my fastest laps of the day, I had also forgotten to attach the rear roll bar following changing a rear am Meant the car was good on the front into the turns, but then refused to rotate! So I'm leaving that on the car for this weekend to do my assessment on that change.)

Front dogbones: 46mm to 44mm. Shorter bones was a suprising change, as it really helped to keep the car hooked into the middle of the corner. With the 46mm bones, the car would hit the middle of the turn, then wash out a little. Putting that down to a little binding due to the tightness of the corners, the 44mm lost that, and the car didn't wash. I made this change with the spool in the car, expect that it would have less of an effect with a diff (see below)

Front drive; Spool to Gear Diff (500K Oil) Wanted to try and keep the mid corner up even more, as still felt the car was doing funny things on power, due to the spool. With steering being king (as the list is probably highlighting!), this again also worked really well. It's the first time I've tried a gear diff in the front, and it did a couple of things. Firstly upped the mid corner speed, and secondly made the car more consistent. However, it is a LOT heavier than a spool, and can feel the car isn't quite as responsive to the throttle. Does it mean I would use it everywhere from now on? no, probably not, just given the grip level and tightness of the track, it works better than a spool at the moment.

The pretty much covers all the changes... and the car is fast. Let down a little by my thumbs, although I am creeping closer and closer to the ultimate pace. There's a race on at the track this weekend, and with a few more changes should be in with a shout of a podium spot, if I can get with 0.5s of the fastest lap then I'll be very happy (currently a 12.9, my fastest is a 13.7), given that the fastest driver won the TITC 11.5 class this year, and qualified in the mod A the previous year... a very fast yardstick

Changes I want to try in practise are;
Rear gear diff with Losi 80wt oil, see if it can't get a little more steering in
All weight forward even further, as looking at Marc's car from the ETS, he was running 0.5mm behind the front arm, and 3.5mm in front of the rear arm, keeping the wheelbase the same, but static weight all moved forward.
1.5mm steering ackerman shim. Want to try this both with the front wheel base as now on the car (1mm shim behind the arm), and with the weight shifted forward.

Actually got a bit of Mojo back now... waned a bit for a while, but a few key equipment changes (aforementioned new radio, ESC etc) have really helped me to up my game, and generally just feel like I'm driving faster, not just better! The exceelent new facility also helps a lot, its genuinely enjoyable to run, well thought out and good facilities.

Regards
Ed

Link to setup
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Last edited by TryHard; 06-14-2011 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:32 AM   #1587
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Did you get any body off pictures of Jilles car??
guess his car like which ? MR or John ?
is standard 417 kit comes seperate front/rear blocks like MR's car?
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:39 AM   #1588
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Thanks TryHard for your post ! very interesting.
I drive on a technical, small track too, but with medium grip.

I'll post my setup soon, I have a race on sunday.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:39 AM   #1589
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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
guess his car like which ? MR or John ?
is standard 417 kit comes seperate front/rear blocks like MR's car?
The 42184 kit only comes with the one piece blocks front and rear.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:49 AM   #1590
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Is that a mod done with the motor screws
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Last edited by GeorgePravata; 06-14-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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