4LikesTamiya TRF417
05-28-2011, 02:29 PM
#1486
Tech Addict
Aaah flipping like that. I thought you were going to swap the belts around, so the front belt was on the electronics' side and the rear belt on the battery side.
05-30-2011, 02:01 AM
#1487
TA06 gear diffs but the 417 one will be very similar, just 37T instead of 39T.
05-30-2011, 08:32 AM
#1488
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
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Need some help here with 17.5 blinky no boost what would be the best or a very good starting point for gearing a D3 17.5. Thanks George
05-30-2011, 08:38 AM
#1489
05-30-2011, 08:44 AM
#1490
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
Yeah i was there also. What was your temp.
05-31-2011, 09:06 AM
#1492
George - 3.35 - 3.45 FDR would be a good starting point. My temps after each run was in the 145 - 155 range using the same motor (D3). I didn't lack any speed down the straight and had decent punch in the infield. Along with chassis setup, I plan on testing different gearing and physical timing on the motor the next time I make it out to Jacksons. Hopefully, I'll see you on the 18th.
05-31-2011, 02:21 PM
#1493
05-31-2011, 05:30 PM
#1494
Tech Regular
Spec-R Gear Diff Build Question
Guys:
How important is it to ensure that the tabs on the diff housing are aligned?
First gear diff was a Tamiya one and the instructions did not specify to ensure that the tabs are aligned, whereas the spec R diff instructions specify it.
Would the diff be more prone to leakage if not aligned? any experience would be appreciated.
Thx!!
How important is it to ensure that the tabs on the diff housing are aligned?
First gear diff was a Tamiya one and the instructions did not specify to ensure that the tabs are aligned, whereas the spec R diff instructions specify it.
Would the diff be more prone to leakage if not aligned? any experience would be appreciated.
Thx!!
05-31-2011, 10:25 PM
#1496
06-01-2011, 05:06 AM
#1497
so... got my 417 tonite (*super duper price).
took about 10 hours. and still not complete but got about 80% done.
now, about the steering. looking at the manual, step 8 page 7.
1. shims are silver and spacers are blue anodized, right?
2. right now, without a servo and just moving the steering by hand, the 2 screws BA1 that goes into steering bridge BB20 will loosen up after a few cranks. if i tighten them down, it binds. it seems that there needs to be a shim on the top, not just a the bottom of BB20... right?
thanks... now for sleep... lol...
one more thing... no other way to mount the battery besides using tape (either double sided or actual batt tape)???
took about 10 hours. and still not complete but got about 80% done.
now, about the steering. looking at the manual, step 8 page 7.
1. shims are silver and spacers are blue anodized, right?
2. right now, without a servo and just moving the steering by hand, the 2 screws BA1 that goes into steering bridge BB20 will loosen up after a few cranks. if i tighten them down, it binds. it seems that there needs to be a shim on the top, not just a the bottom of BB20... right?
thanks... now for sleep... lol...
one more thing... no other way to mount the battery besides using tape (either double sided or actual batt tape)???
06-01-2011, 10:35 AM
#1499
Tech Master
They're cars were box stock with exception of hpi silvers all the way around and double gear diffs. Victor told me 500,000 front and never asked for the rear diff oil.
06-01-2011, 10:56 AM
#1500
