T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale
#1216
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
Body
Have a custom painted body for sale only for a Rebel 12
Early Christmas present for someone.....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ebel-12-a.html
Thanks
Early Christmas present for someone.....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ebel-12-a.html
Thanks
#1217
Hey guys,
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
#1218
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Hey guys,
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
That is pretty thick tube lube for mod. Can you really make eight minutes without losing rear side bite?
#1219
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Hey guys,
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
I am a noob to 12th scale racing here in Sydney. Running the Top and having a blast.
I do however need a little more high speed on power steering if anyone has some suggestions.
Below is my setup.
Med-large size med grip carpet track
Mod 4.0t
Ulti med f xmed rear
3.4mm f 3.6 r right height
kit front spring with 10k lube
gold center spring 600wt oil
40k side damper
1mm droop
Cheers,
Brett
#1220
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Anybody know the part number to these Top Rebel castor shims (see pic)
#1221
Tech Regular
iTrader: (41)
Currently out of stock at TQ Racing, but he should have then soon.
#1223
Sorry, CRC red side springs, 0 spacer for reactive caster and 1.5mm shim either side of the upper hinge pin. 1.5 camber. Also shock is in top hole on front mount.
I tried running all the shims at the front to increase caster and then started lifting the inside rear on switchbacks.
I found that I can make the 8mins with the Ulti tyres. Also tested with CRC which I cannot make the 8mins and maintain sidebite. Thanks for the tip on the lube. I will try a lighter one when running CRC blue/magenta.
Thanks for the help and doc chief1476!
Brett
#1224
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Thanks LloydLoar,
Sorry, CRC red side springs, 0 spacer for reactive caster and 1.5mm shim either side of the upper hinge pin. 1.5 camber. Also shock is in top hole on front mount.
I tried running all the shims at the front to increase caster and then started lifting the inside rear on switchbacks.
I found that I can make the 8mins with the Ulti tyres. Also tested with CRC which I cannot make the 8mins and maintain sidebite. Thanks for the tip on the lube. I will try a lighter one when running CRC blue/magenta.
Thanks for the help and doc chief1476!
Brett
Sorry, CRC red side springs, 0 spacer for reactive caster and 1.5mm shim either side of the upper hinge pin. 1.5 camber. Also shock is in top hole on front mount.
I tried running all the shims at the front to increase caster and then started lifting the inside rear on switchbacks.
I found that I can make the 8mins with the Ulti tyres. Also tested with CRC which I cannot make the 8mins and maintain sidebite. Thanks for the tip on the lube. I will try a lighter one when running CRC blue/magenta.
Thanks for the help and doc chief1476!
Brett
Overall, I would recommend the following (addressing some stuff other than just your original question):
- 15k in the tubes (I think everyone uses Kyosho)
- TOP black side springs
- You can also go down one hole on the forward shock mount, providing this won't cause your shock to hit the battery. This will help give you a bit more steering after the softening changes I mentioned above.
- Use a camber gauge (I use the Schumacher purple one) and check your caster. Set it to 4 degrees on both sides of the car. Note that the shims will probably not be the same from side to side in order to get the caster the same on both sides.
For what it is worth, the Ulti XM rears should be pretty close to a CRC or BSR Blue rear. I would really recommend softening the rear of the car, as above, since this should make the car easier to drive up front and also help you retain rear grip over the course of eight minutes. Why did you originally go to the stiffer side springs/tube lube?
Oh, if the car gets a little tippy don't forget that you can always move the battery forward and it should chill out a bit
#1225
Hi Brett. It sounds like you are running the rear of the car really stiff, as I think the CRC red side springs are somewhere in the middle of their line and are stiffer than the normal TOP black that we run on this car in mod (and a lot of other classes!)
Overall, I would recommend the following (addressing some stuff other than just your original question):
- 15k in the tubes (I think everyone uses Kyosho)
- TOP black side springs
- You can also go down one hole on the forward shock mount, providing this won't cause your shock to hit the battery. This will help give you a bit more steering after the softening changes I mentioned above.
- Use a camber gauge (I use the Schumacher purple one) and check your caster. Set it to 4 degrees on both sides of the car. Note that the shims will probably not be the same from side to side in order to get the caster the same on both sides.
For what it is worth, the Ulti XM rears should be pretty close to a CRC or BSR Blue rear. I would really recommend softening the rear of the car, as above, since this should make the car easier to drive up front and also help you retain rear grip over the course of eight minutes. Why did you originally go to the stiffer side springs/tube lube?
Oh, if the car gets a little tippy don't forget that you can always move the battery forward and it should chill out a bit
Overall, I would recommend the following (addressing some stuff other than just your original question):
- 15k in the tubes (I think everyone uses Kyosho)
- TOP black side springs
- You can also go down one hole on the forward shock mount, providing this won't cause your shock to hit the battery. This will help give you a bit more steering after the softening changes I mentioned above.
- Use a camber gauge (I use the Schumacher purple one) and check your caster. Set it to 4 degrees on both sides of the car. Note that the shims will probably not be the same from side to side in order to get the caster the same on both sides.
For what it is worth, the Ulti XM rears should be pretty close to a CRC or BSR Blue rear. I would really recommend softening the rear of the car, as above, since this should make the car easier to drive up front and also help you retain rear grip over the course of eight minutes. Why did you originally go to the stiffer side springs/tube lube?
Oh, if the car gets a little tippy don't forget that you can always move the battery forward and it should chill out a bit
Everything you say makes a lot of sense.
I purchased the car from a friend second hand so the stiffer rear end is how he liked it.
I will try this out next time I am at track.
Thanks again happy holidays.
Brett
#1226
Thanks for the help LloydLoar.
Got out for a quick practice today and was hitting my PB lap constantly. I was pretty happy with this as there were not many cars on track so it was not at it's fastest.
Now for some fine tuning.
Brett.
Got out for a quick practice today and was hitting my PB lap constantly. I was pretty happy with this as there were not many cars on track so it was not at it's fastest.
Now for some fine tuning.
Brett.
#1228
Had a run last night and managed to sneak away with the win.
I still think there is more in this car and in much more to be found in the driver.
I would like to ask your thoughts on this.
The car is lifting the inside front quite a bit on switchbacks and tighter transition turns if i am not super smooth. I am thinking of going to a slightly harder side spring. However you guys run the black spring exclusively i believe. (I tried the crc reds i had and it was inconsistent) Should I focus on smoothing out my driving or play a little more with caster/reactive caster or something else?
6d caster
high mount for reactive caster
3.5mm fr ride height
3.7mm rear ride height
0.1 pod sag
black side spring
15k damper tube
600wt copper spring shock
.5 spacer under shock on pod mount
top hole mound on front of shock
1mm droop
165mm front width
171mm rear width
Enjoy your testing.
Brett
Last edited by Dray01; 12-29-2014 at 01:52 PM. Reason: added setup info
#1229
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Cheers Chris!
Had a run last night and managed to sneak away with the win.
I still think there is more in this car and in much more to be found in the driver.
I would like to ask your thoughts on this.
The car is lifting the inside front quite a bit on switchbacks and tighter transition turns if i am not super smooth. I am thinking of going to a slightly harder side spring. However you guys run the black spring exclusively i believe. (I tried the crc reds i had and it was inconsistent) Should I focus on smoothing out my driving or play a little more with caster/reactive caster or something else?
6d caster
high mount for reactive caster
3.5mm fr ride height
3.7mm rear ride height
0.1 pod sag
black side spring
15k damper tube
600wt copper spring shock
.5 spacer under shock on pod mount
top hole mound on front of shock
1mm droop
165mm front width
171mm rear width
Enjoy your testing.
Brett
Had a run last night and managed to sneak away with the win.
I still think there is more in this car and in much more to be found in the driver.
I would like to ask your thoughts on this.
The car is lifting the inside front quite a bit on switchbacks and tighter transition turns if i am not super smooth. I am thinking of going to a slightly harder side spring. However you guys run the black spring exclusively i believe. (I tried the crc reds i had and it was inconsistent) Should I focus on smoothing out my driving or play a little more with caster/reactive caster or something else?
6d caster
high mount for reactive caster
3.5mm fr ride height
3.7mm rear ride height
0.1 pod sag
black side spring
15k damper tube
600wt copper spring shock
.5 spacer under shock on pod mount
top hole mound on front of shock
1mm droop
165mm front width
171mm rear width
Enjoy your testing.
Brett
I would try going a step stiffer on the front springs or add preload to the side springs, in that order. If you don't like those, try reducing caster (to five or four degrees.) Generally speaking, less caster will make the car more aggressive off center, but it will also give it a bit more on power steering and also keep the car level when it starts to hike.
I would also go to the middle hole for reactive caster. To each their own, but I find that I am consistently slower if I run a car with no reactive caster, as you are trying now.
Some things to try, if nothing else.
#1230
Thanks Chris,
I will try the front spring and caster settings next time I am out racing.
I currently have kit front springs. Sorry, I always forget to include something. Thanks for the help and happy new year!
Brett
I will try the front spring and caster settings next time I am out racing.
I currently have kit front springs. Sorry, I always forget to include something. Thanks for the help and happy new year!
Brett