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Old 10-27-2014, 07:40 AM   #1201
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The speedo is screwed down through the chassis. The chassis is full 2.5mm where the screws run through. Also the speedo sits on top of the chassis, just where the internals hang below the aluminum case is where the chassis is pocketed. I run only the Lrp Flow which is what is in the pictures. Thanks Ea yes the D4 was not approved in time for the Worlds.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:41 AM   #1202
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Originally Posted by Donny Lia View Post
Hey yea guys the chassis was cut to replace the plastic bottom of the case. The pocket that the internals of the speedo sit in is about 2mm in depth. Flex analysis was almost identical to stock once the speedo was tightened down. It works well and the speedo ends up only being 11mm tall. I don't run a booster or Rx pack. Also, I use associated r5 steering blocks. Hope this helps. Any other questions just ask. Thanks
Donny,

What is needed to run the R5 steering blocks? So far on my car I have the T.O.P. stock steering with the optional threaded axle stubs. What is the advantage of the different steering blocks.

Also, to anyone in general, what size is the washers for the upper arm hinge pin and where do I get them? With just building this thing and setting it up on my table, I have had the little clips pop off more than once on me. I can't see them lasting long on the track.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:29 AM   #1203
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... a few front end changes -- adding 2.0mm to the inner upper camber/caster mount totally made the car turn around.
Mike, are you talking about the Upper Pin Holder Spacers, in effect making the top arm longer?
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Old 10-27-2014, 12:18 PM   #1204
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I run only the Lrp Flow which is what is in the pictures.
Hi Donny what Firmware do You run in the LRP Flow?
Thanks
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:13 PM   #1205
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...Also, to anyone in general, what size is the washers for the upper arm hinge pin and where do I get them? With just building this thing and setting it up on my table, I have had the little clips pop off more than once on me. I can't see them lasting long on the track.
Dubro #2107 - 2mm flat washers fit really nicely as castor shims instead of the small black plastic clips. 4 on each side and they come in a package of 8 for about $1. They are about .75mm thick.

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Old 10-27-2014, 08:08 PM   #1206
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Mike, are you talking about the Upper Pin Holder Spacers, in effect making the top arm longer?
nope
shimming up the metal caster block held on by 2x 3mm screws on each side.
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:06 PM   #1207
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Not to turn a TOP thread into an LRP thread, but this is where the convo started...

Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:

"1/12 driver that are using the LRP Flow can be looking forward to a first ever. There will be a class specific firmware for your fast and lightweight RC models in the future. In close cooperation with the drivers, we were able to work out the specifics and have tested the prototype version at the WC final. The availability of the new v2.2 Onroad 1/12 firmware is still to be determined. But the waiting will be worth it for sure."

I hope they release it! An integrated 1s ESC from LRP is a nice option.

And to haul it back to the TOP side, Donny's World's car from the PetitRC site. No setup sheet. Yet...

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/top/...mee2014100608/
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:10 PM   #1208
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Originally Posted by PutAwayWet View Post
Not to turn a TOP thread into an LRP thread, but this is where the convo started...

Donny, if you're willing to say, were you running prototype software on your FLOW that allowed you to forgo voltage boosting for the rest of the electronics? Per LRP's recent website post:
Hi Todd, not to speak for Donny, but you don't need to run a booster or rx pack with the LRP flow with 1s. I have done the exact same thing as Donny for about the past six months, and just run the Flow WT with no booster or rx pack in modified 12th. I haven't encountered any issues with it, and when I spoke to the LRP guys at Worlds, neither one of them was surprised or recommended otherwise.

I have done this with both the original 1.4 firmware as well as the newer 4.7 firmware, FYI. No issues with either.

EDIT: You can also look at pictures of Olly Jefferies 12th from Worlds and see the same thing: http://events.redrc.net/2014/10/chas...lly-jefferies/

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Last edited by LloydLoar; 10-28-2014 at 02:26 PM. Reason: said year when I meant six months, sorry
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:51 PM   #1209
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I was not using the prototype software at the Worlds, I have been running 4.0. I like it, but I plan on trying another version soon, probably the 12th scale specific one. I'm not sure but I think Olly Jefferies was running the new 12th scale version. As far as rx pack or booster, it is not recommended but it can be done. I have been running it this way for about 2 years now. I'll get my setup up there once I get a chance I'll summarize it below.

-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear

i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:57 AM   #1210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny Lia View Post
I was not using the prototype software at the Worlds, I have been running 4.0. I like it, but I plan on trying another version soon, probably the 12th scale specific one. I'm not sure but I think Olly Jefferies was running the new 12th scale version. As far as rx pack or booster, it is not recommended but it can be done. I have been running it this way for about 2 years now. I'll get my setup up there once I get a chance I'll summarize it below.

-1.5dg Camber
-6dg Caster
-3mm ride everywhere
-1.5mm pod droop above ride height
-asc. .020" front springs-neutral
-Top Black side springs barely touching
-15K Kyosho grease in tubes and front pins
-41mm front/42mm rear BSR blues (kinda big, low traction)
-50wt in shock/Top copper center
-165mm front width, 171mm rear

i'll get my speedo setup on here too when i get my hands on it. LMK if there anything else specific you need to know.
Hi Donny, what shims do you use above and below the r5 steering blocks?

It looks like the r5 steering blocks are 10 mm in height, which is the same overall height as the normal TOP steering blocks (6 mm) plus the 4 mm of shims recommended in the build (when using the TOP steering blocks.) However, the r5 blocks seem to bind on the upper and lower arms if I don't put any sort of shims underneath and above them. Should I not be worried?
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:17 PM   #1211
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Hey guys, new TOP rebel 12 owner here. I just picked up the car a few weeks ago, and ran it through a race at our Local club track. I'm completely new to pan cars, and I was wondering how are some of the methods you guys adjust the diff? I think I may have gone a bit too tight, I had a weird push on initial turn in off throttle, and the outside hub bearing facing the adjusting nut, is completely shot. Feels like a bearing cracked as it is gritty as hell and there is lots of slop. Most ball diffs I've encountered usually has some sort of spring and or thrust bearing for tension and side load. This car has neither and that diff adjusting nut puts tension on the inner race bearing. Something these bearing are not designed to do. I wonder if there is a tapered bearing this small........ that'd be cool.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:53 AM   #1212
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Hey guys, new TOP rebel 12 owner here. I just picked up the car a few weeks ago, and ran it through a race at our Local club track. I'm completely new to pan cars, and I was wondering how are some of the methods you guys adjust the diff? I think I may have gone a bit too tight, I had a weird push on initial turn in off throttle, and the outside hub bearing facing the adjusting nut, is completely shot. Feels like a bearing cracked as it is gritty as hell and there is lots of slop. Most ball diffs I've encountered usually has some sort of spring and or thrust bearing for tension and side load. This car has neither and that diff adjusting nut puts tension on the inner race bearing. Something these bearing are not designed to do. I wonder if there is a tapered bearing this small........ that'd be cool.
The thrust set up on the Rebel 12 is common to almost all 1/12th cars. While the bearing used as a thrust is not designed for that purpose it does the job well, but is easily damaged, especially if you take a side hit. To adjust the diff hold both wheels and push the spur with your thumb, it should take a fair amount of force to move it. You don't want it to slip when you hit the throttle from a stop. If your diff feels gritty it will never work properly. Most of the time it is damage to the thrust bearing that is the cause. Replacing it will restore the diff, if not new balls and rings are in order. If you are having trouble keeping the thrust bearing from damage you can try a Slapmaster or equivalent thrust set up. Those are super strong and last almost forever, if not quite as free and the stock set up
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:35 AM   #1213
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Cool! I think I really just tightened the diff too much. I'll recheck the diff using that method, and see what happens. thanks!
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:28 AM   #1214
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If anyone is interested I will have 2.5mm top rebel chassis ready to ship on Weds. These are a solid replacement chassis with no cut outs for the cells.

PM me or email me Red_mosquito7@rocketmail.com for details.

Monti
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:40 AM   #1215
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If anyone is interested I will have 2.5mm top rebel chassis ready to ship on Weds. These are a solid replacement chassis with no cut outs for the cells.

PM me or email me Red_mosquito7@rocketmail.com for details.

Monti
Sweet! Thanks Monti
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