Originally Posted by vagnik
I have but I can not find that specific information!
1,2 and 4 are specific to our car...
and as for rollout perhaps someone could make a starting rollout diagram with ie motor turns and track style (only diagrams that calculate rollout I have found, but not starting points)
Okay, I'll try to help...
1.) Flipped side links are to avoid the spring binding or "clicking" in the molded-in spring cup. I've never run them not flipped, so I don't know how bad it really is, but it works fine flipped. Literally, just pop them on the pivot balls upside down.
2.) King pin spacing will all change depending on what springs you use and if your using the stock TOP knuckle or the AE knuckle. I'm using the AE knuckle and CRC springs. I think I have 3x .5mm shims under the spring. This pre-loads the spring just a tiny bit which is a common way to run them. This is sort-of a tuning item - Some people like more pre-load, some less.
3.) Sorry, I can't help you here
I don't run mod. Perhaps someone else could chime in...
4.) On the Rebel, reactive caster is set by moving the screw at the front of the caster block up or down in the block. This changes the incline of the upper hinge pin. More caster, in general, will reduce initial steering but increase steering from the center to exit of a corner. Less caster will increase initial steering and can make the car twitchy. Reactive caster controls the amount of caster change under suspension compression. By increasing the incline of the upper hinge pin (moving the screw down in the block), it should cause the king pin to become more vertical under compression and thus reduce caster angle. This should increase steering, but I think the effect is pretty small. I usually use the center position and only tune static caster with shims.
Hope this helps!