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Old 12-30-2012, 10:53 AM   #1006
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Hey Guy's even though Im running a different car I agree with what Mike says about the Top Rebel.It a 2 year Old car and Still remains Very competitive on all Levels. He put up and very impressive race we had at least 6+ min's of battling. One of the best races I had.

If you get an opportunity to purchase one you wont be disappointed with the car.


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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Gotta just say how much I still like this nearly 2 year old car. I rebuilt my oldest car to club race in 13.5 blinky. Although I missed he mark on my motor program I was able to put up a great fight for the lead with our local 1/12th fanatic mike ivy who's car looked like a rocket ship compared to mine..

What I call a rebuild was-
New front arms (1 pack)
New front upper arms (2 packs)
New center pivot plastic (1 piece)
New center pivot set screw/Teflon shim
New asc front steering blocks

Previously this car was rebuilt a year ago for 13.5 boosted in prep for snowbirds
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:24 AM   #1007
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How often are you guys replacing the metal front suspension pivot balls?
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:29 PM   #1008
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How often are you guys replacing the metal front suspension pivot balls?
Never did, that last four years....

Regards Robert
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:02 PM   #1009
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what do you guys think about this for a first on road car
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:02 AM   #1010
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Quote:
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Never did, that last four years....

Regards Robert
i agree.. they seem to hold up very well...

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what do you guys think about this for a first on road car
any 1/12th scale as a first on-road car will be challenging. they require a significant attention to detail. i'd probably recommend finding the "fast" guys at your local track and buy what they are running [this is what i did ]
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:15 AM   #1011
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Hi

Will also second what Hanulec says. I have raced this car all winter the last 2 years and only thing I change are the front spring. And not because they are collapsed but just because they are so cheap and I know the is all straight.

And I do make some small mistakes and the car is still straight , not bended or twisted.

This is the best 1/12 car on the market
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:45 PM   #1012
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Hi Guys,

A few weeks ago I made some changes to my Rebel 12 car.

Changed the steering with a middle servo horn. All parts used are original T.O.P. racing parts!

Attached you will find a picture. Drove with it, the last 2 races, and it works perfectly.

Regards,

J
Attached Thumbnails
T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-dsc06788.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:50 AM   #1013
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hey
have made ​​myself, or come by the Racing TOP

Mike



Quote:
Originally Posted by lenaers View Post
Hi Guys,

A few weeks ago I made some changes to my Rebel 12 car.

Changed the steering with a middle servo horn. All parts used are original T.O.P. racing parts!

Attached you will find a picture. Drove with it, the last 2 races, and it works perfectly.

Regards,

J
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:05 AM   #1014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenaers View Post
Hi Guys,

A few weeks ago I made some changes to my Rebel 12 car.

Changed the steering with a middle servo horn. All parts used are original T.O.P. racing parts!

Attached you will find a picture. Drove with it, the last 2 races, and it works perfectly.

Regards,

J
Nice job with the Sabre parts ;- )

On my Sabre I never understood why this steering bellcrank doesn't form a right angle. I mean the angle between the arm linked to the servo and the arm where the steering links are attached. It seem like it creates an asymmetric steering. I still have to play a little with the servo linkage and servo placement but I'm seriously contemplating cutting a new CF plate with a right angle.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:48 AM   #1015
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Nice job with the Sabre parts ;- )

On my Sabre I never understood why this steering bellcrank doesn't form a right angle. I mean the angle between the arm linked to the servo and the arm where the steering links are attached. It seem like it creates an asymmetric steering. I still have to play a little with the servo linkage and servo placement but I'm seriously contemplating cutting a new CF plate with a right angle.
It looks like you just need to shim the ball stud on the servo saver to get the angle right to the crank arm.
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:14 AM   #1016
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nah, I suppose you are talking about the angle of the rods viewed from the sides of from the front/back.

I was talking about the angle "built in" the CF part, viewed from above. It's more of a 80 degree angle than a 90 degree angle. I never measured it but it's quite visible even on the picture above.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:48 AM   #1017
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hey,

my new car.
TOp Racing Rebel 12 is ready.

Below some pictures!

MSMike
Attached Thumbnails
T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-009.jpg   T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-012.jpg   T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-014.jpg   T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-016.jpg   T.O.P Racing's Rebel 1/12th scale-018.jpg  

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Old 02-09-2013, 02:28 PM   #1018
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Thought I would post this for everyone...Maybe someones done it already but...

I found that if you drill an additional hole, CRC fine ride height adjusters can be made to work on the rebel front end. This is really nice for fine tuning ride height, especially since the rebel only has 1 and .5mm spacers available.



And for posterity, a shot of my Rebel Ready for the ROAR Region 5 race in a couple weeks.

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Old 02-09-2013, 02:33 PM   #1019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Stew View Post
Thought I would post this for everyone...Maybe someones done it already but...

I found that if you drill an additional hole, CRC fine ride height adjusters can be made to work on the rebel front end. This is really nice for fine tuning ride height, especially since the rebel only has 1 and .5mm spacers available.



And for posterity, a shot of my Rebel Ready for the ROAR Region 5 race in a couple weeks.


Is that setup for stock though?
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:33 PM   #1020
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Quote:
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Is that setup for stock though?
Yeah, thats my old D3.
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