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Old 02-24-2012, 11:48 PM   #916
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I think I got all the info needed for the car setup. Special thanks to everyone who helped.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:02 AM   #917
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Hi Infinite 12th,

Thanks for the info. So basically the front droop is mainly by feeling and eyeballing only.

I like to measure front droop two different ways.

The first way is the easiest, and it is what I do when Im at the track and fussing around with the car. First, I will pull off the front bumper and plastic brace thingy, so that I have easy access to the chassis centerline hole.... and so that I see exactly what the ride height is. I use the Hudy pan car gauge with the .2mm increments(it ranges from 2mm to 5mm or so, so it works perfectly for 12ths).

Poke down on your rollover antenna a few times and then roll the car back and forth on the setup board. Compress the suspension again once more, for good measure. Then measure the front ride height with the Hudy gauge. It is important that you are using the gauge with the .2mm increments, otherwise the following process will not work.

As I measure the front ride height, I find exactly where the car sits at static height on the gauge. Then I slowly push the gauge farther under the car, one .2mm step at a time. Lean down to board/car level, and watch as you do this. Continue pushing the gauge under the car, until you see the front tires just start to lift from the ground. Ideally, your car will be tweaked correctly at this point, so both front tires will lift from the ground at the same time.

Take the static front chassis ride height measurement and subtract it from the measurement where the car is currently sitting on the gauge. That will tell you your front droop. Normally, I tend to run .2-.4mm of droop at our local carpet track. So, for example, I will measure the front ride height at 3.4mm with the Hudy gauge. Then I push the gauge under the car little by little, until the front tires lift. The gauge is measuring 3.8mm at this point. So, the front droop is: 3.8 - 3.4 = .4mm.....

It's a pretty simple process really.

The second way I measure droop is by measuring the actual front axle height from the ground. I only do this when I am rebuilding/tweaking the car at home, usually. As a side note, when you assemble and set up the car (and between each race weekend/meeting), you should always be checking that the front axle height matches left to right on the car. If it does not, that is a surefire way to introduce tweak to your chassis.

Just put the car on a totally flat surface, I usually also put it on droop blocks. Then measure the distance from the ground to the very inner part of the front axle... on both sides of the car. You need a set of digital calipers for this. I try to get the front axles equal to within a tenth of a millimeter. Next, jiggle the front steering block until you find the spot where the spring begins introducing resistance. This should be easy to find, but you need to make sure you aren't actually compressing the spring, otherwise your measurements will be off. Raise your calipers from the static height until you feel that initial resistance... the delta between the two measurements is your front droop value.

This way is a little more accurate, but is much more time consuming and more difficult to get correct. I like this method because you ensure that both sides of the car have the same amount of front droop. But, again, I only take these measurements when I have plenty of time to kill at home prepping the car. I generally don't get this involved at the track, unless I had a wreck where I broke some front end pieces... or I suspect I have a collapsed front spring.

Hope this helps a bit.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:40 AM   #918
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Hi James,

thanks for the sharing on the front droop measurement.

Just to double check with you, if let say I want .5mm rear droop, I just take the reading straight from the gauge right? There is no math involve like the front droop measurement.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:51 PM   #919
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Hi James,

thanks for the sharing on the front droop measurement.

Just to double check with you, if let say I want .5mm rear droop, I just take the reading straight from the gauge right? There is no math involve like the front droop measurement.
Yep, just like that. Just adjust the length of the center shock so that the edge of the rear pod is smack between the -1mm and 0mm steps on the droop gauge.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:49 PM   #920
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HI James,

thank you very much for all the detailed explanation. I have benefited from it and I'm sure many others will too.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:29 PM   #921
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Run the setup that Hanulec posted. I ran just about that exact setup this weekend at Middle River Hobbies and the car was pretty much untouchable. Please if you have this car and run anything but mod try that setup exactly.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:08 AM   #922
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Run the setup that Hanulec posted. I ran just about that exact setup this weekend at Middle River Hobbies and the car was pretty much untouchable. Please if you have this car and run anything but mod try that setup exactly.
Larry, do you generally run the middle setting for reactive caster(5*, I believe)? Or is this class and surface dependent?

My buddy and I have been working on our setup for 17.5 blinky and have been running a similar setup to Hanulec's, except we're using 10* RC, slightly stiffer on the side springs, and more pod droop.

Im curious as to what RC setting you would recommend for stock 12th in particular... Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:09 AM   #923
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Hi,

after reading the racer log, I have a question regarding the body shell. I see that the recommended body shell for modified class is the Protoform AMR 12. Is there a reason why this shell is recommended for the modified race? How is it different from Speed 12?
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:12 AM   #924
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Hi,

after reading the racer log, I have a question regarding the body shell. I see that the recommended body shell for modified class is the Protoform AMR 12. Is there a reason why this shell is recommended for the modified race? How is it different from Speed 12?
Speed12 hasn't been popular in competition - no matter the chassis since lipo 1s. It doesn't provide the stability.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #925
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Ok. I already tried the AMR 12. Will try out the other recommended shell soon
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:16 AM   #926
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Just finished up the Rebel 12 I am going to be running @ the Carpet Nats... wrapped up the wiring and electronic installation last night. Thought I would share a few pics. It isn't anything to write home about, but Im excited to get this car on the track for some testing and shakedown this weekend:





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Old 03-09-2012, 07:32 AM   #927
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Nice ride
Good luck at the Nats
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:13 AM   #928
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Looks nice
if your running 17.5 blinky u will need a small spur and that one looks big..
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:18 AM   #929
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@JamesL_71

Looks really nice James

Lets us know how your doing in qualifying at the nat's
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:09 PM   #930
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Thanks fellas.

The spur is a Kimbrough 76t... what Ive always used for 17.5 non-timing.
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