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Old 11-12-2013, 10:47 AM   #1351
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Ok, never messed with a M06, but I just bought the "R" model and need to know about shock length. It's going to be used on high traction carpet and I know about the oring trick for the other minis, but this R has be baffeled. I know it has the two different length shocks for front and back, but the rear hop up mounts makes be wonder if I change any length. So can I get some thought on it? Thank you.

Fuzz
I have the M06-R and I just built my shocks per the instructions. I even use the kit oil in them and mine handles well.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:07 AM   #1352
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Come on Tamiya, time for the new M07 to roll out here. M05 has been out for a long while now. The M06 can stay for a little longer.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:34 PM   #1353
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What do you mean by hop up mounts? Are you referring to the carbon shock towers?

If so there are 2 versions. One for m chassis short dampers and second for regular touring dampers. I would only recommend the m chassis carbon tower for the R spec
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:59 PM   #1354
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What do you mean by hop up mounts?
I would assume that they are talking about these red anodized lower shock mounts.

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Old 11-12-2013, 04:23 PM   #1355
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I would assume that they are talking about these red anodized lower shock mounts.

Bingo!! Alot of times we always put orings in the dampers in the M05, M03 cars and what I'm wondering is do we do the same thing in the "R" version? I know they are longer for the rear and didn't know if it's the same principle. Any help would be appreciated.

This car will be used on high traction carpet and using a silver can motor.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:40 PM   #1356
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Bingo!! Alot of times we always put orings in the dampers in the M05, M03 cars and what I'm wondering is do we do the same thing in the "R" version? I know they are longer for the rear and didn't know if it's the same principle. Any help would be appreciated.

This car will be used on high traction carpet and using a silver can motor.
Build as per manual.. Which I believe is without any o-rings.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:16 AM   #1357
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I have the M06-R and I just built my shocks per the instructions. I even use the kit oil in them and mine handles well.
Jim,

Stan from Madison, Wisconxin...met you at HobbyPlex during the TCS race.

Do you guys run silver can during the rest of the year as well?
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:23 AM   #1358
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Jim,

Stan from Madison, Wisconxin...met you at HobbyPlex during the TCS race.

Do you guys run silver can during the rest of the year as well?
Hey, I hope you can make it again in February!

Shortly after the TCS race we switched to 21.5 brushless in Mini. Tim is hoping that the TCS rules change to 21.5 also. They're slower than the silver cans, but you don't have to worry about teching motors for RPM range, etc.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:47 AM   #1359
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
Do you guys run silver can during the rest of the year as well?
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Originally Posted by kwkride View Post
Shortly after the TCS race we switched to 21.5 brushless in Mini. Tim is hoping that the TCS rules change to 21.5 also. They're slower than the silver cans, but you don't have to worry about teching motors for RPM range, etc.
Omaha allows either 21.5 or silver can. If you run 21.5, make sure you get a motor that allows a bunch of timing advance. I'm still running brushed, and I'm running over most of the 21.5 cars on the straight.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:48 AM   #1360
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Hey, I hope you can make it again in February!

Shortly after the TCS race we switched to 21.5 brushless in Mini. Tim is hoping that the TCS rules change to 21.5 also. They're slower than the silver cans, but you don't have to worry about teching motors for RPM range, etc.
Vue and I both plan to make it down along with seven to eight others we've introduced to the best racing RC has to offer!

Interesting...

We've had a number of guys say that they dig the mini's, but would like the ease and long run times of brushless. many hate the idea of tweaking motors. We allowed 21.5 and that almost killed the class. Guys were cranking up the timing more and more to the point that there was a huge discrepancy in the competitors speed, that it destroyed the quality of racing - no two cars on the track had even close to similar speeds. Most of the guys just quit because of it. Guys were going so fast, they couldn't drive it or worse yet, they would collect three racers in the sweeper and take them off the track!

The short of it is;

We desperatly want to allow brushless for all the obvious reasons, but need some help / advice in how to maintain the qaulity of racing silver cans offer. Looking for ideas from anyone...I suspect we will have to deal with the brushless question sooner than later.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:02 AM   #1361
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Just to clarify, I race in Omaha every Wednesday evening.
For those races, we run 21.5 brushless. Blinky ESCs and and the motor timing must be left at the factory out-of-the-box setting. It's very close racing and a lot of fun. We don't send someone home if they show up with a silver can, but we encourage them to change if they plan to run weekly.

For the "HobbyPLEX Winter Carpet Onroad Series" (which is a series of 5 races over the winter) Tim is allowing silver cans as well as 21.5. This must be where howardcano ran last weekend.

Since I don't run in that series, I don't know what Tim's going to do to even out the playing field.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:04 AM   #1362
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Omaha allows either 21.5 or silver can. If you run 21.5, make sure you get a motor that allows a bunch of timing advance. I'm still running brushed, and I'm running over most of the 21.5 cars on the straight.
What motor do you like?

I think guys were cranking the timing past the factory maximum - they were pretty fast.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:31 AM   #1363
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I run a ballistic 21.5. You can comfortably advance the timing past the 15 degree hash marks without a problem.. My motor never even became warm.

Also they now have high rpm stators.. Which give you more top end, so you can choose that route as well to be competitive with silvercans
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:39 AM   #1364
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I run a ballistic 21.5. You can comfortably advance the timing past the 15 degree hash marks without a problem.. My motor never even became warm.

Also they now have high rpm stators.. Which give you more top end, so you can choose that route as well to be competitive with silvercans
Don't the solder tabs give clearance issues?
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:59 AM   #1365
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Don't the solder tabs give clearance issues?
Yes and no. I countersunk the back plate (D4) where it secures D2/D12 (sway bar mount) and used a counter sunk screw, this way the tabs can not short out.

Another option would be straighten out the tabs. This would be the best option if you end up using the Alu hop up trans mount.

Not the best pict.. but the only one I have at hand
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