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Old 09-18-2012, 05:25 PM   #871
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Originally Posted by Fabricio View Post
Guys I am going to get on for my B-day this month.
What are the must have hopups for this car?
Sorry to ask, but no time to read the whole thing.
Regards.
Fabricio,

Assuming you are buying the Pro, Here are my recommendations.

Must: Front and rear carbon shock towers, Plus TRF dampers, carbon hollow shaft for gear box (same as m03/m04), CVD.

Secondary: Alu racing steering (shows up under M05 options, it's identical for M06), carbon battery brace and stainless steal suspension shafts (M03,M04)

The rest in my opinion is for looks and not necessary. I bought my car used and it came with Alu front and rear hubs, I removed them and webt back to plastic.. Plastic flexes and breaks and is cheap to replace. Alu bends and is expensive to replace. I'm sure you know this, you have a TRF417!

Ps: did you receive the TRF416 top deck I sent you?
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:05 AM   #872
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What is the easiest way to get to the diff of a M-06. How much do you have to disassemble and what parts should be removed first? I want to take the diff out to see if I can make it slightly stickier with shims or with different grease.

At first glance it looks like the whole rear end needs to be disassembled...
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:21 PM   #873
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At first glance it looks like the whole rear end needs to be disassembled...
Youīre quite right, Diff removing needs some time. Take off the rear gear box and split it.

Good luck from Germany,
Matthias
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:52 AM   #874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Fabricio,

Assuming you are buying the Pro, Here are my recommendations.

Must: Front and rear carbon shock towers, Plus TRF dampers, carbon hollow shaft for gear box (same as m03/m04), CVD.

Secondary: Alu racing steering (shows up under M05 options, it's identical for M06), carbon battery brace and stainless steal suspension shafts (M03,M04)

The rest in my opinion is for looks and not necessary. I bought my car used and it came with Alu front and rear hubs, I removed them and webt back to plastic.. Plastic flexes and breaks and is cheap to replace. Alu bends and is expensive to replace. I'm sure you know this, you have a TRF417!

Ps: did you receive the TRF416 top deck I sent you?
Raman, thanks a lot, and yes I received and already sold the car!!!
Thanks oncemore.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:58 PM   #875
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Default Damper help

I haven't raced Mini's for some time, I now have the m06 pro....question, i am running on ozite with Tamiya specific tires/orca combo control class, the question is around overall damper length or amount of shims to put on the shaft before assembly to control the droop (3 racing damper set).

I used to limit the travel substantially on the M03 I ran way back when!!!

Any help would be appreciated

Roy
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:33 AM   #876
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I had a tonne of issues with pushing, loose rear end on throttle ,and too much steering off throttle .Finally went back to kit setup (everything from oils to tires )tightened up the rear end and Voila ! It now runs like a charm .On throttle it feels like power is planted to rear wheels and much more driveable.
If anyone has problems setting up this car ,go back to kit settings.

Btw a better servo and servo saver helps too
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:43 PM   #877
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Page 21 of the manual, options section says Use kit-included piston rod on TRF dampers. Anyone know why?
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:27 PM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Page 21 of the manual, options section says Use kit-included piston rod on TRF dampers. Anyone know why?
Not sure but length maybe .i know that pistons are different size holes .The trf is smaller holes than stock pistons of same amount of holes.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:54 PM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyAfrica View Post
Not sure but length maybe .i know that pistons are different size holes .The trf is smaller holes than stock pistons of same amount of holes.
The kit comes with plastic pistons that have 1, 2 or 3 hole. The TRF pistons come with 2 or 3 nylon pistons. So maybe they are suggesting to use the plastic 1 hole ones

The length of piston shaft is the same.. I had them side by side when I was rebuilding my shocks.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:20 AM   #880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
The kit comes with plastic pistons that have 1, 2 or 3 hole. The TRF pistons come with 2 or 3 nylon pistons. So maybe they are suggesting to use the plastic 1 hole ones

The length of piston shaft is the same.. I had them side by side when I was rebuilding my shocks.
That makes the most sense to me
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:05 AM   #881
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The length of piston shaft is the same.. I had them side by side when I was rebuilding my shocks.
Hi Raman, donīt know if youīre talking about the Pro kit,
but the clear cva shocks in my prokit have 2mm longer piston rods in rear.
Thatīs why the manual at that time recommends using the piston rods again when turning to TRF-dampers, to get the same droop as the kit setup.

Now with the whole new carbon damper plates (2nd edition, 4 holes) item 54362, the damper body sits deeper in the chassis and you can use original TRF piston rods in the car.
I really donīt know, why they did it that complicated.
Iīll try in Decembre in my next race, which length setup works best for me with all the possible combinations...

BR,
Matthias

P.S. Actually, I only know the kit setup from the Pro. Does anybody know the std. setup of a normal kit?
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #882
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Quote:
Now with the whole new carbon damper plates (2nd edition, 4 holes) item 54362, the damper body sits deeper in the chassis and you can use original TRF piston rods in the car.
Sorry, this I said not good: What I noticed is, that the mounting holes are slightly higher up than with the old Tamiya carbon damper stay in rear, so that the downside travel of the rear suspension is reduced.
The manual for that even recommends when using the 4th outside hole to use the classic mounting hole on the wishbone, not with the special axl with ball pin used on the M06 normally...
And there is no hint on a special length for the dampers in this manual.

So for me Tamiya never gives a clear statement about the shock length for the new stay. Iīm keen on how it will be on the M06R, with even a new lower mounting hole position...

BR,
Matthias
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:00 PM   #883
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Interesting...

Mine is an M06 Pro.. I have a set of M chassis TRF dampers, have not installed them yet.. I will have to check the rear piston lengths again.

I have the original carbon front and rear damper stays.. Are they newer ones an improvement?

Looking at the M06R.. it seems that the rear damper bodies are short and being used with the standard touring springs (as write up states). If you look closely, you can see that the lower part of damper, connects to an adapter that attaches to a arm. This lowers the connection point.

Also clamp type upright weights? I guess to add more weight to rear for traction.

I had mine on a track Thursday.. its very consistent.. lots of understeer... I have a lot of work to do to make it competitive with M05... Rear is very stable... I don't feel that I need weight.... Intact I need more steering
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Last edited by Raman; 11-12-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:11 AM   #884
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Hey all, I bought a used M06 a while back and have been racing it as is. It has quite a few hop-ups including aluminum steering knuckles and the Mini shocks.

However it also has a TON of weight added under the battery. It has like an entire layer of lead in the battery compartment. I think the thing weighs like 1450 grams and it only has to weigh 1250 right?

I have no idea what original owner was thinking, but the car was fast and won races, so it wasn't bad. But I'm thinking that extra weight is crazy? Should I remove it?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:27 AM   #885
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My M06, all stock, weighed in at 1141 grams with ESC Castle SV2, Silver Can, Specktrum Receiver and a Reedy Wolf 3000ma Lipo. Sweep 33's and no body. Adding the body took me to 1301. Car handled awesome and was very fast down the straights compared to some of the M03/05's. I wouldn't worry about the weight some much if you are competitive. With that said I would remove it and place it where it was needed or if needed as all. Whenever I have purchased a preowned RC, I always take it back to a stock kit build and tune from there. My M06 was a new Pro Kit build so it is all stock. Using stock oil, blues in front, yellows in the rear. Running -1 Camber. No traction rolls and I am pushing it hard through the corners. running it tonight for the first time in a club race, I am curious to see how it does in a pack of M03/05's. I am thinking it might get turned a lot.
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