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Old 07-25-2012, 11:02 AM   #841
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I appreciate your help! Do those tires need to be glued to the rim with CA glue? Sorry for the stupid questions, I own a stampede 4x4 so that's what I'm used to doing on my off-road truck.
Yes, they need to be glued.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:43 AM   #842
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Hi Raman, do you use the N type in the rear only or N type in both front and rear? I ask because on the link you showed me they recommend SB type in the front and N type in the rear.

Should I glue the tires on the rim before I paint them or after?

Do you know of any tires that are more scaler looking, I am trying to build a scale BMW 2002 turbo with real street looking tires.

Thank you
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:18 PM   #843
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Originally Posted by DBFIU View Post
Hi Raman, do you use the N type in the rear only or N type in both front and rear? I ask because on the link you showed me they recommend SB type in the front and N type in the rear.

Should I glue the tires on the rim before I paint them or after?

Do you know of any tires that are more scaler looking, I am trying to build a scale BMW 2002 turbo with real street looking tires.

Thank you
The SB type is for a front wheel drive car. I ran 4 of N type.

The stock tyres that come with the M06 are fairly scale. You can try to fit them to the ABC rims.. they should fit...

Paint rims first, then glue tyres
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:26 PM   #844
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Thanks Raman!
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:03 AM   #845
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Default Rear toe-in

Is the rear toe-in generated by the suspension mount on the chassis or the rearhub alone, or both?

Thanks!
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:03 AM   #846
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Is the rear toe-in generated by the suspension mount on the chassis or the rearhub alone, or both?

Thanks!
Rear hub
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:29 AM   #847
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Rear hub
Thanks, Raman
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:08 PM   #848
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Rear hub
I think it's both as a stock M06 has about 3.5° rear toe and the hub has 2°.

Martin Paradis
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:20 AM   #849
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I think it's both as a stock M06 has about 3.5° rear toe and the hub has 2°.

Martin Paradis
Thank you Martin for pointed that out.

From the manual, the chassis part A11, and the (CAD) image on page 7 (at the bottom) I can see that the rear suspension arms does have a small degree of toe-in - roughly 1.5 degree I dare say

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Old 08-22-2012, 05:44 AM   #850
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Default Once again setup...

Hi Guys,

i started with my M-06 pro just a few weeks ago.
and , as you can imagine, i am struggling with a specific set-up.

at first: i really found a good one for outdoor asphalt tracks.
I more or less used the Basic damper Set-up but leave the rings of damper adjustment off to get it lower.
also i build the dampers with rebound.

i used S-Grip in the rear , an M-Grip in the front. M-grip tires have been treated with CS tire grip and been heated several times to improve the grip of M-Grip tires in general before doing the first lap...

So this works more or less fine and makes a lot of fun.

BUT:
my big Problem is: starting in Tamiya Cup, only Type A tires are permitted. Using Type A tires i do have to less grip on the rear. (or to much on the front wheels) What is the outcome?-> in curves it is not possible to pass through or speed up in the end of the curve without getting the car spinning around...
btw: The same happens if using S-grip all around.

I already am using 2degree toe ins in the rear, and also tried a stabilizer in the rear. And only a sport tuned brushed motor...

So sorry for my stupid question but what would be your general recommendation for improving grip on the rear.
in special for the M-06

so i have heard about:
-) higher the ground clearence in the rear.
-) more toe in in the rear (which is not possible) less in the front.

but what about springs ? harder rear ? softer front ? a.s.o.
what about the stabilizer, does this help?
shall the Damper oil (now the kit oil is in the dampers) be softer?

thanks for your suggestions!

If any other information is needed to provide a proper Feedback please let me know..

Thanks
Flo
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:52 AM   #851
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Hi Guys,

i started with my M-06 pro just a few weeks ago.
and , as you can imagine, i am struggling with a specific set-up.

at first: i really found a good one for outdoor asphalt tracks.
I more or less used the Basic damper Set-up but leave the rings of damper adjustment off to get it lower.
also i build the dampers with rebound.

i used S-Grip in the rear , an M-Grip in the front. M-grip tires have been treated with CS tire grip and been heated several times to improve the grip of M-Grip tires in general before doing the first lap...

So this works more or less fine and makes a lot of fun.

BUT:
my big Problem is: starting in Tamiya Cup, only Type A tires are permitted. Using Type A tires i do have to less grip on the rear. (or to much on the front wheels) What is the outcome?-> in curves it is not possible to pass through or speed up in the end of the curve without getting the car spinning around...
btw: The same happens if using S-grip all around.

I already am using 2degree toe ins in the rear, and also tried a stabilizer in the rear. And only a sport tuned brushed motor...

So sorry for my stupid question but what would be your general recommendation for improving grip on the rear.
in special for the M-06

so i have heard about:
-) higher the ground clearence in the rear.
-) more toe in in the rear (which is not possible) less in the front.

but what about springs ? harder rear ? softer front ? a.s.o.
what about the stabilizer, does this help?
shall the Damper oil (now the kit oil is in the dampers) be softer?

thanks for your suggestions!

If any other information is needed to provide a proper Feedback please let me know..

Thanks
Flo
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:20 AM   #852
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I think you are going about your mini setup in the wrong direction.

If you are having trouble with traction on one end, you want to maximize the traction on that end before you start taking traction away from the stable end.

With that said, the key to getting an MO6 to handle well, at least in my own testing, is to have the Tamiya Ball Diff #54194. The advantage to this over the geared diff is that you can set it up to slip slightly if needed so you car is not spinning out under throttle. Set up correctly, this will solve 70% of your problems.

When running the M06 with similar compound front rear tires, you always want to have the rear softer than the front, that's with springs, shock oil, and stabilizer bars. I can't really tell you what spring/oil/stabilizer to use, but use this guideline as a starting point--rear always softer than the front (most real racing cars regardless of drive configuration are setup this way as well).

Ride height: Rear should be lower than the front.

Also, move the battery to the rear most position.

Start with full compound on the rear tires, none on the front.

While you are doing this, also remember that the key is balance. You don't want to have soft (red) springs on the rear and extra firm (white) springs on the front--you typically don't want to skip more than one step in either spring rate, oil, or stabilizer rates.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:09 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoWheel View Post
I think you are going about your mini setup in the wrong direction.

If you are having trouble with traction on one end, you want to maximize the traction on that end before you start taking traction away from the stable end.

With that said, the key to getting an MO6 to handle well, at least in my own testing, is to have the Tamiya Ball Diff #54194. The advantage to this over the geared diff is that you can set it up to slip slightly if needed so you car is not spinning out under throttle. Set up correctly, this will solve 70% of your problems.

When running the M06 with similar compound front rear tires, you always want to have the rear softer than the front, that's with springs, shock oil, and stabilizer bars. I can't really tell you what spring/oil/stabilizer to use, but use this guideline as a starting point--rear always softer than the front (most real racing cars regardless of drive configuration are setup this way as well).

Ride height: Rear should be lower than the front.

Also, move the battery to the rear most position.

Start with full compound on the rear tires, none on the front.

While you are doing this, also remember that the key is balance. You don't want to have soft (red) springs on the rear and extra firm (white) springs on the front--you typically don't want to skip more than one step in either spring rate, oil, or stabilizer rates.
+1

Additionally, keep this in mind with your set up. Rear wheel drive car wants to oversteer. Your set up goal is to minimise this and ultimately have it understeer.

Hence the reasoning for lower rear ride height, battery in back position. You want to reduce the weight transfer to front wheels when your entering, mid or exiting a turn.

Also check your front camber setting. I usually run 0 or + 1.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:53 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoWheel View Post
I think you are going about your mini setup in the wrong direction.

If you are having trouble with traction on one end, you want to maximize the traction on that end before you start taking traction away from the stable end.

With that said, the key to getting an MO6 to handle well, at least in my own testing, is to have the Tamiya Ball Diff #54194. The advantage to this over the geared diff is that you can set it up to slip slightly if needed so you car is not spinning out under throttle. Set up correctly, this will solve 70% of your problems.

When running the M06 with similar compound front rear tires, you always want to have the rear softer than the front, that's with springs, shock oil, and stabilizer bars. I can't really tell you what spring/oil/stabilizer to use, but use this guideline as a starting point--rear always softer than the front (most real racing cars regardless of drive configuration are setup this way as well).

Ride height: Rear should be lower than the front.

Also, move the battery to the rear most position.

Start with full compound on the rear tires, none on the front.

While you are doing this, also remember that the key is balance. You don't want to have soft (red) springs on the rear and extra firm (white) springs on the front--you typically don't want to skip more than one step in either spring rate, oil, or stabilizer rates.
Thank you for your feedback, i have already thought about a balldiff, but did not know the output of it..
so but the one thing i read in this thread is that some drivers use the ta03 balldiff, what is the difference to the original M-06 balldiff?

needs the balldiff to be readjusted after some time ?

so for me this means, that i will order a balldiff, and will try out the difference for + will test your suggestions about, dampers, ride height a.s.o

due to the fact, that this all will take time (ordering + testing) , i keep you updated about my tests with your input in about 2-3 weeks....

thank you once again and cheers
Flo
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:07 PM   #855
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I have found the easiest way to get my M06 to run consistently was to go back to my M05.
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