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Old 01-22-2012, 09:49 PM   #751
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I'm in the final stages of completing the build and noticed something. Though I haven't mounted the wheels and tires yet, the front end seems to have a lot of positive camber. I put on the turnbuckle ends at 4;5 mm spacing in between as the manual says. Is this normal? The back end seems pretty flat.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:29 AM   #752
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Hi,

maybe you forgot to cut the frontball heads, each should be shortened 2 mm.
You can find it in the manual step17!
Best way is to check the actual camber in the end, and adjust it. Cutting is not so exact, so the 4,5mm gap isnīt either...
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:00 PM   #753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glinx111 View Post
I'm in the final stages of completing the build and noticed something. Though I haven't mounted the wheels and tires yet, the front end seems to have a lot of positive camber. I put on the turnbuckle ends at 4;5 mm spacing in between as the manual says. Is this normal? The back end seems pretty flat.
I actually run mine with 1 deg positive camber in front and 1 deg negative camber in rear. This enables the car to push more versus oversteer..

I bought my car used, so not sure what the manual has as its base settings.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:45 PM   #754
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
Hi,

maybe you forgot to cut the frontball heads, each should be shortened 2 mm.
You can find it in the manual step17!
Best way is to check the actual camber in the end, and adjust it. Cutting is not so exact, so the 4,5mm gap isnīt either...
Thank you. Totally missed that part in the instruction. Now it makes sense
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:27 PM   #755
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Quote:
Thank you. Totally missed that part in the instruction. Now it makes sense
No problem, youīre never experienced enough to make a failure,
I had it on my TB03 recently, claiming the steering.
Afterwards noticed to have switched the front uprights...

BR,
Matthias
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:29 PM   #756
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Sorry,
switched the C-hubs, not the uprights. No good idea with built in 4°Caster...
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #757
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In Japan, most of the setup sheets I've seen, they use the M05 ball diff for the M06. So far I've run gear diff, will be trying the M05 ball diff this weekend.
None used the TA03 balldiff.

Oil seems to average around 200 - 300wt front, 400 - 500wt rear. Tires were mostly same front and rear. Either Tamiya type b, m, s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
That sounds interesting,
should control my actual camber again.

At themoment Iīm overthinking rear drive train on my car again,
Iīm still in doubts what is better: M03 balldiff, or my 3 Racing gear diff,
which I built very smooth for RWD.

Does anybody have some experience to share?

BR,
Matthias
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:57 PM   #758
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Quote:
In Japan, most of the setup sheets I've seen, they use the M05 ball diff for the M06. So far I've run gear diff, will be trying the M05 ball diff this weekend.
None used the TA03 balldiff.

Oil seems to average around 200 - 300wt front, 400 - 500wt rear. Tires were mostly same front and rear. Either Tamiya type b, m, s.
Thanks for the infos!
I heard that the M05 Ball diff has some week points (which can be solved with some 416 parts), so I went in the beginning to M03 Ball diff built with Anti wear grease instead of ball diff grease. This worked very well for many runs, and was a bit less understeer than my kit built diff with AW. (less stiff)
Nevertheless I damaged the thread somehow during adjusting, so I went to my meanwhile purchased 3R gear diff, as Iīm not fixed to a Tamiya regulations. I like the value for the price, you get blades against wear and good reliability.

Damper oil is always a secret, when you donīt know the used pistons and dampers. But just referring to the oil wt, I tried the same range f/r.

Thank You!
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:01 AM   #759
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Visit the tamiya trf site. Though in Japanese, you can download the winning setups from various events. Usually 3 hole pistons.

Springs are hard to decipher. I'll get my Japanese friend to translate.

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Old 01-25-2012, 11:38 AM   #760
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m05 diff main gear is narrower than ta03 diff main gear.

I like the Tamiyausa site for TCS racing classes description, http://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/tcs_classes.php

My local track / club should allow more m chassis to race each other instead of front wheel drive only.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:56 PM   #761
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Time to blow away the M05s

Tamiya M06 - Build, tune, race
Attached Thumbnails
TAMIYA M-06 Thread-tamiya-m06-mini-rc-car.jpg   TAMIYA M-06 Thread-tamiya-mini-rc-car-bodies.jpg   TAMIYA M-06 Thread-tamiya-m06-m-chassis-rc-car.jpg  
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:27 PM   #762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Time to blow away the M05s

Tamiya M06 - Build, tune, race
I see your Alfa Giulia GTA body is nice and clean I just painted up a new one as well. Top half is light blue, bottom half is white... I can't bring myself to run it, looks too clean.. for now it will be used only for concours
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #763
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Quote:
Time to blow away the M05s

Tamiya M06 - Build, tune, race
Very cool, please keep us updated with your experiences.
And youīre damn right, to get the best from the M06, time and testing trials are the key!

On your pic you try currently the neon springs, probably the long versions, as you need no additional spacers in rear? Do you get any advantage compared to the shorter black springs fromthe Pro kit?
And what shock length do you prefer to define the droop?

A lot more secrets to share.Your daughter is a real good driver by the way, saw one of your videos on youtube!

Keep on casing the M05īs !

BR from Europe,
Matthias
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:56 PM   #764
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@rccartips

On the Tamiya M06 build, race, tune web page it said that you are using 300wt front and 400wt rear oil. Is this correct? Those wt numbers are pretty thick for shocks. Do you mean 30 and 40?
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:31 PM   #765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
@rccartips

On the Tamiya M06 build, race, tune web page it said that you are using 300wt front and 400wt rear oil. Is this correct? Those wt numbers are pretty thick for shocks. Do you mean 30 and 40?
I'd assume he's using the Tamiya oils... These use the numbering in the hundreds.
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