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Old 03-17-2011, 05:18 PM   #556
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
Back from the track!

Did my Tamiya Eurocup comeback this weekend with my M06!
Last TEC race I did 1997...)
Finished third in B-Final. As expected I was chanceless against the Carson 16t equipped brushless M05/M03. Quite small, technical track, with a mess of a carpet. Never drove on such an inconsistent surface.
Had big problems eve in faster curve after the straight. Rear tried to came around, which was new for me on this car when not lifting the throttle.
I mad some setup changes the whole saturday, but never could get it consistent enough to be able to really push it. The winner, which was one of the top drivers in this class here gave me around 1 second in best lap time in the finals...
Still, I love this chassis, because itīs the best rear wheel drive M-chassis Tamiya did so far!
Also the Type A-slicks did not really work on this carpet. Strange was, that grip could change drastically between 3 laps, never had that in a race before.
On asphalt it worked far better with the Type A.

Conclusion: The track conditions have to suit the M06, while the M03/05 suits the track, as low traction doesnīt make you spin!
I couldnīt even pull full throttle with my silvercan without powerslide...

Nevertheless, some did notice the M06 and agreed, thet maybe on outdoor season some more will appear in the cup here...

Best regards,
Matthias
Matthias,

one thing you need to do to get these buggers going is to drop them right through the ground. As little ground clearance as possible. Load them with lead everywhere you can to keep them planted.

Tires I found S grips work best but not on all surfaces (asphalt perhaps ideal). HPI x-radials are even better on asphalt, good on carpet. S-grips a little bit better on our carpet than HPI.

That being said, the Tamiya are a larger diameter tire, not ideal. The HPI are smaller, and I have better handling with those.

There's a Muchmore tire similar to the TC sedans' Sweep32R (or something like that) which is very sticky on all surfaces, but you need to remember if your mini is not the weight of a TC car, the rubber is going to behave differently.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:05 PM   #557
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Hi Niznai,

thanks for your tips!
I also like a lot the S Grips all around, but in the German TEC they are not allowed anymore.
Lead I used a lot on my old M02, that did really help. But anyway the M06 is quite a heavy bastard, almost as heavy as my TT01!
so for M-Chassis class this is no option for me to keep up to the lighter M03.

And in our TT01 class with silvercan (Cup Machine) I need the 60D to keep up the speed of the TT01īs, so I use the 60D S-grips there.

So you see, Iīm a bit limited by reglement. I will pick up your advice and play even a bit more with ground clearance to see the effects.
What sprigs do you use on the M06? The kits are the old onroad tuned TA03 generation ones, bt does anybody try also the "heavier" ones from the TRF M-chassis dampers?

Best regards from Germany,
Matthias
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:54 PM   #558
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
Hi Niznai,

thanks for your tips!
I also like a lot the S Grips all around, but in the German TEC they are not allowed anymore.
Lead I used a lot on my old M02, that did really help. But anyway the M06 is quite a heavy bastard, almost as heavy as my TT01!
so for M-Chassis class this is no option for me to keep up to the lighter M03.

And in our TT01 class with silvercan (Cup Machine) I need the 60D to keep up the speed of the TT01īs, so I use the 60D S-grips there.

So you see, Iīm a bit limited by reglement. I will pick up your advice and play even a bit more with ground clearance to see the effects.
What sprigs do you use on the M06? The kits are the old onroad tuned TA03 generation ones, bt does anybody try also the "heavier" ones from the TRF M-chassis dampers?

Best regards from Germany,
Matthias
Matthias,

I use the kit shocks and springs. I have the TRF ones too, (just to dispell any misunderstandings) and a full set of on-road tuned springs.

The TRF dampers will only offer you a more reliable but not necessarily better setting as opposed to the kit ones. You are going to be able to have exactly the rebound you want, and so on, as opposed to being "close enough" with the kit shocks. The overall effect I think it is going to be bugger all though no matter how much you sweat it. I mean if you use them you're going to be able to demonstrate that shocks make little difference to how a mini behaves. The crucial tuning options are tire choice and ground clearance. That however can only be pinned down with a lot of experimenting under your conditions, not mine or anyne else's.

And don't sweat it too much. It's a fun class. Guys who split hairs agonisingly at no end about it might have a marginally better result, perhaps one zillionth of a second but not one second over you. Practice as much as you can, and you'll get better.
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:21 PM   #559
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daign,

that's the HPI mini cooper body right?

I used to have one, it's a bit lighter than tamiya and I used it for local parking lot racing. So the Tamiya body doesn't get damaged and reserved for TCS race.
nope, some random rare body called "matrixline rc model" . In all honesty its more scale.
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:36 AM   #560
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Thanks again niznai and daign,

youīre damn right. Itīs also a fun class for me, and very much connected to scale and optic reasons. Thatīs why I donīt like shrunk "Touring car Race bodies" for a mini...
My mini is a fun between my touring car races and a Sunday fun racer, too.
Nevertheless, I want to perform it as best as possible, and will definitely try some fine tuning. You always learn something at it.
In the moment I run the TRF shocks with 3mm rebound and a red foam insert.
A secret view on the winners maintenance I saw him building his shocks with full rebound. This is also worth a try, as I never tried it (not even on my Touring cars).
With the damper setting Iīm in the meanwhile far off the kits setting, as itīs way to stiff in my eyes. When I hit a kerb slightly, I flew off massive.
So I use in the meantime 3 hole pistons front with 300 Tamiya oil, 2 hole rear drilled up to 1,7mm also with 300 Tamiya oil. Ball diff Ta03, rather smooth. Its the best compromise for me at the moment. The bevel gear diff locked with anti wear grease is a bit too much on the tracks I run and gave too much understeer in quick curve passages...

One question to ground clearance: When lowering the car, do you do it by reducing spring preload to keep some droop or do you shorten the dampers and preload the springs a bit more than usual? What are your opinions here?

BR,
Matthias
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:49 AM   #561
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I built the shocks as per manual (I have the PRO version) (and it took forever, damn things). Loaded everything in the car. Loaded with lead as much as I could everywhere (including under the stick pack type Lipo battery). Added spacers to bring ground clearance to spec. I have a bit more ground clearance in the rear. Overall, about 5.5mm (perhaps 6mm in the rear) all loaded ready to go.
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:07 AM   #562
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O.k,
as you run Lipo I can understand why you put some lead in.
Ground clearance I have in the same range as you.
Still, by refering to spacers you mean the outside ones for the springs, or?
The interesting part for me are the ones inside to define the extended lengh of the damper?
And do you now use the TRF or the kit dampers (clear ones)?
You know, referring to the manual, the TRF rears should be built with the kit iston rod to get some more travel (-> lower shock mount rear on the knuckle axle).

And, finally whats your starting weight?
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:29 AM   #563
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I use the kit (clear) shocks. As I said, it's a waste of money to buy the TRF.

Yes, I used the internal spacers and I think there was no need for external (I will check again when I am home).

You don't need travel. On the contrary, you want the car to be as stiff as possible (within reason) without getting into traction roll.

The main problem with the rear motor minis however will always be oversteer and that is only addressed by your driving.

I did not weigh it too carefully but I think it's close to my TC sedan which is about 1425g.

I will play with it some mor ein the coming week on my break, but don't have too many new ideas. I will just play with tires/inserts.

My main obsession is to get rid of as much slop as possible. I know this is not essential in a mini, but that's what I need to be comfortable. On the upshot, my car is going straight as an arrow and that's what I like to see before I start tweaking this and that. Otherwise, I feel like trying to drive a greasy weasel.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:46 AM   #564
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Ruebiracer, love your avatar. Which bug body is that ??
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:05 AM   #565
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Tempting



Source: http://ameblo.jp/afro3/page-1.html#main
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:46 AM   #566
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I wonder what wheelbase is this?
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:58 AM   #567
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I have read that the RX-7 is a M-06L. Tamiya is testing how well that kit sells in Japan before release it. There's a little more info at tamiyablog.com.

I hope that we can purchase it soon in the rest of the world. That body is pure class, a beautiful one, and I think that it's better for bashing than the Alpine.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:40 AM   #568
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I'm trying to figure out what year of RX7 the body represents. Looks like a 1980 or at least the early model
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:02 AM   #569
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It's the first generation RX-7 ('79-'85).
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:22 AM   #570
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It's the first generation RX-7 ('79-'85).
Thought so.

Drove a 87 or so, always wanted a 80
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