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Old 03-02-2011, 04:44 AM   #541
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Thanks for the replies. I realise I had put up the kit no's not the shell numbers, but I thought that would make it easier.

ALL the mini type shells are subtly different, hence why I am wondering if the alpine shell(s)are different.

Still looks to me like the rear arch horizontal lip hits the tires and thus affects suspension movement.
Almost every Tamiya shell will rub on the tires. USe smaller mini wheels/tires, like the HPI tires or similar and you're fine. Suspension travel should be a minimum. Or just put the shell higher. I have a bunch of Alpines on all sorts of chassies and being a rather narrow bugger, they rub easily. You could also try different offset wheels for a narrower stance, but I am not sure they do in fact exist.
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Last edited by niznai; 03-03-2011 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:35 PM   #542
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hows this for blasphemy. Tamiya M06 with a mini body. RWD fun here I come!








Short chassis 210mm
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:15 AM   #543
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Hi good people!

Just "discovered" this awesome thread!

I was just wondering, can the m06 be 'upgraded' to a 'rally version'? If it can be done, what are the parts needed?

Any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks, good people!
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:27 AM   #544
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Hi good people!

Just "discovered" this awesome thread!

I was just wondering, can the m06 be 'upgraded' to a 'rally version'? If it can be done, what are the parts needed?

Any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks, good people!
I bought mine with the same intention. No need to do anything special, just get the rally tires from tamiya or the pin spike ones from Spice, remove the stoppers from the shocks so the suspension travels all the way down to where the driveshafts can't take anymore and that's pretty much it. If you feel you've got too much bump steer you can do soemthing about that (try to line up the tie rods), but I wouldn't worry.
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:53 AM   #545
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I bought mine with the same intention. No need to do anything special, just get the rally tires from tamiya or the pin spike ones from Spice, remove the stoppers from the shocks so the suspension travels all the way down to where the driveshafts can't take anymore and that's pretty much it. If you feel you've got too much bump steer you can do soemthing about that (try to line up the tie rods), but I wouldn't worry.
Hi there niznai!

Cool! How's the ground clearence? Any problems running on gravel/dirt and grass?
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:53 AM   #546
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.......and another thing, does anyone know whether a 'Tamiya / TBG 1/12 Porsche 959 body shell' fit on it?

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:44 AM   #547
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Hi there niznai!

Cool! How's the ground clearence? Any problems running on gravel/dirt and grass?
You're never going to get any serious ground clearance on a mini chassis because the arms are too short and very quickly you strain the driveshafts beyond the point where they can actually work.

That being said, you can get about 16mm without problems.

The best mini chassis in this situation is not a mini chassis, but the old 1/12 Porsche 959/Celica GrB chassis (which by coincidence-?! has the same wheelbase as a short mini chassis, I have the Alpine Renault body on it). The wheels are a bit larger on those cars as well, so you get another few mm. Tires with spikes help too. Downside, the chassis is very fragile. I have used strips of PCB (glassfibre reinforced plastic) to keep it together in as an inconspicuous way as I could. Lots of fun, but don't push it too hard.

Grass is a pain for anything below 1/8 scale, even for buggies like the DF03 based ones, or whatever else you want, unless clipped very short.

I prefer sawdust laid alleyways in public parks which are plentiful where I live. It is the best surface for these cars, and you can get very spectacular drifting through corners spraying sawdust everywhere, pretty much as you see on TV, in real rally stages. My avatar is one of my cars at full chat on a sawdust alley, some ten years ago. You can see the sawdust spray coming off all four whels even at top speed (car no longer accelerating). Chassis is a custom modified TA02 with shorter plates (by 2cm) made after the Tamiya FRP upgrade kit, to accomodate shorter bodyshell wheelbase.
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:43 AM   #548
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
You're never going to get any serious ground clearance on a mini chassis because the arms are too short and very quickly you strain the driveshafts beyond the point where they can actually work.

That being said, you can get about 16mm without problems.

The best mini chassis in this situation is not a mini chassis, but the old 1/12 Porsche 959/Celica GrB chassis (which by coincidence-?! has the same wheelbase as a short mini chassis, I have the Alpine Renault body on it). The wheels are a bit larger on those cars as well, so you get another few mm. Tires with spikes help too. Downside, the chassis is very fragile. I have used strips of PCB (glassfibre reinforced plastic) to keep it together in as an inconspicuous way as I could. Lots of fun, but don't push it too hard.

Grass is a pain for anything below 1/8 scale, even for buggies like the DF03 based ones, or whatever else you want, unless clipped very short.

I prefer sawdust laid alleyways in public parks which are plentiful where I live. It is the best surface for these cars, and you can get very spectacular drifting through corners spraying sawdust everywhere, pretty much as you see on TV, in real rally stages. My avatar is one of my cars at full chat on a sawdust alley, some ten years ago. You can see the sawdust spray coming off all four whels even at top speed (car no longer accelerating). Chassis is a custom modified TA02 with shorter plates (by 2cm) made after the Tamiya FRP upgrade kit, to accomodate shorter bodyshell wheelbase.
Thanks so much for the explaination, niznai! I really appreciate it & thanks for your time too!

Happy racin'!!
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:23 AM   #549
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For you mini guys out there, I have an unpainte 280 ZX body that I would like to sell. It is missing the lexan wing, but everything else is there. This is the body that came in the limited edition MO5 with the 280ZX body.

Let me know.
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:08 PM   #550
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daign,

that's the HPI mini cooper body right?

I used to have one, it's a bit lighter than tamiya and I used it for local parking lot racing. So the Tamiya body doesn't get damaged and reserved for TCS race.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:16 PM   #551
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looking at the prices online, it looks tempting to buy the M06 spare part bags to convert an M05 instead of buying the complete kit.

Has anyone tried this?

Is it enough to buy the plastic chassis parts, screw set, and rear arm pin set, and use your M05 parts to complete up an M06?
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:21 PM   #552
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Hey guys,

Just wondering what esc you guys are using with your 540s






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Old 03-09-2011, 10:42 PM   #553
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At my club guys are using everything from stock Tamiya speed controls to higher priced Novak and Tekin stuff. We get winners with all of them. It's a 540, they'll all work just fine.
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Old 03-11-2011, 01:22 AM   #554
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hows this for blasphemy. Tamiya M06 with a mini body. RWD fun here I come!








Short chassis 210mm
how close is that to the motor mount , is'nt the shell stretched over it ??

does anyone know what sort of lengh shocks , are peolpe running to get the right ammount of droop for indoors , on sweep tyres ?? and is it the same front or rear or different ..??
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:25 PM   #555
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Back from the track!

Did my Tamiya Eurocup comeback this weekend with my M06!
Last TEC race I did 1997...)
Finished third in B-Final. As expected I was chanceless against the Carson 16t equipped brushless M05/M03. Quite small, technical track, with a mess of a carpet. Never drove on such an inconsistent surface.
Had big problems eve in faster curve after the straight. Rear tried to came around, which was new for me on this car when not lifting the throttle.
I mad some setup changes the whole saturday, but never could get it consistent enough to be able to really push it. The winner, which was one of the top drivers in this class here gave me around 1 second in best lap time in the finals...
Still, I love this chassis, because itīs the best rear wheel drive M-chassis Tamiya did so far!
Also the Type A-slicks did not really work on this carpet. Strange was, that grip could change drastically between 3 laps, never had that in a race before.
On asphalt it worked far better with the Type A.

Conclusion: The track conditions have to suit the M06, while the M03/05 suits the track, as low traction doesnīt make you spin!
I couldnīt even pull full throttle with my silvercan without powerslide...

Nevertheless, some did notice the M06 and agreed, thet maybe on outdoor season some more will appear in the cup here...

Best regards,
Matthias
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