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Old 02-15-2011, 03:33 PM   #496
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I have a question to stitchy:
On your link is mentioned that the 2° rear uprights will result in 3,5° toe on the M06 and are the same as in the kit?
So the kit toe rear is also 3,5° in total?
I havenīt measured it yet as I have no setup equipment to do this.
Butif thatīs true, itīs definitely something to keep in mind while setting up the beast.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:51 PM   #497
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I would think 3.5 degrees per side
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:04 PM   #498
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Grandpa

I run with these guys and can say that my front axel came out of the knuckle on the first run. Sad to see my tire and axle bounce across the track. I swapped the M06 with my spare plastic M05 knuckles. No problems since that. Out of the box my M06 is fast. I was atleast a second slower a lap with my M05, but I can keep up with these guys now, until I slap a board hehe. Most of our track guys are swapping over to the M06. The racing more fun for me as the cars are closer to running the same lap times.
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:42 PM   #499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
Hello to all,

@hprt: Based on your stock spring setup and the ride height:
Did you shorten the dampers by inside spacers to achieve the ride height?
Or just not preload the springs as in the kit setup?
And what piston / oil did you use, Kit dampers or TRF?
A lot of questions, but could help me here in Germany...



At these could rainy days here in Germany I had time to establish a cold weather setup, that is quite driveable on rough wet and dusty tarmac: Kit spring setup, cva kit dampers with just one O ring and teflon bush instead of the second (from TRF dampers) with TRF pistons (3 front, 2 rear) and 200 Tamiya oil due to cold temperatures of 1 ° Celsius. -1° camber all around on 60D Type-A slicks f/r. Ta 03 ball diff, rather loose.

BR,
Matthias
Hi Matthias,

My setup used the Tamiya 54000 M chassis dampers, with the M06 kit shock shafts as they are longer on the rear than the 54000 parts. I used the 2 hole TRF pistons with 30 wt oil. On all minis, you need to use spacers in the shocks to limit travel or droop. For spacers, I used 6mm under the shock piston for the rear and 3 or 4mm for the front (I had aluminum parts, but just use the kit plastic spacers, V11 and V3). With the 54000 series threaded shock bodies, you use the collar to set the ride height, as any preload on the spring will have removed the droop. With the shock setup and ride height as described, I had about 3 mm of droop as measured on the chassis. I was running 60D Tamiya tires and a ride height of 4.5mm. If you are running 55D tires, you would need to reduce or even eliminate the spacers in the shocks or you will be scraping the chassis on the ground.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:13 PM   #500
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Hey Bob, yup the stock build is definitely the way to go. The M-06 is remarkably good out of the box when compared to the M-05. The TRF shocks and aluminum knuckles are all I've done and the car is a gem.

I have found that the rear uprights get a bit sloppy at the lower suspension pin after a collision or two (or 10 in my case) and throw the toe for a loop.

HPRT's suggestion that the motor mount plate can help with cooling is very valid. He pits next to me and believe me, that thing got warm. Running outdoors on more open tracks like you do may have a huge difference on temps, however.

The only build tip I can offer is don't forget to follow the instructions at step 17! (shorten front upper control ball cups by 2mm)

jim
Thanx Jim. Pretty much confirms my suspicions. You guys might want to try the R1 Wurks end bell fan. I first thought that it was a little "pricey" for a fan and mount until I saw one. The bracket is not a plastic bit or a a bent metal strap. It's machined aluminum and the quality is superb. Guess you get what you pay for.Also, I think an end bell mounting of the fan would be the most effective here.

Stitchy, give them the link. I got mine from Steve cause he wanted me to test a prototype. When it came time to give it back, I gave him Charlton Hestons famous line.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:29 PM   #501
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Hey Guy
I still have my M05 and I really didn't cares for it compare my old M03 days..So thinking about getting the M06 for fun and it is good enough to compete againt the Others mini?
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:34 PM   #502
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Thanx Jim. Pretty much confirms my suspicions. You guys might want to try the R1 Wurks end bell fan. I first thought that it was a little "pricey" for a fan and mount until I saw one. The bracket is not a plastic bit or a a bent metal strap. It's machined aluminum and the quality is superb. Guess you get what you pay for.Also, I think an end bell mounting of the fan would be the most effective here.

Stitchy, give them the link. I got mine from Steve cause he wanted me to test a prototype. When it came time to give it back, I gave him Charlton Hestons famous line.
That fan is AWESOME.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:41 PM   #503
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http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=689&id=9849

We didn't receive any in our last shipment...trying to get more in now..
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:56 PM   #504
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Stitchy, do you know the charleton Heston quote I was reffering to???? You missed the William Bendix one
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:40 PM   #505
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Stitchy, do you know the charleton Heston quote I was reffering to???? You missed the William Bendix one
Granpa, for the record, I knew the Bendix quote but was furiously stirring the pot you were already stirring.

Hmm...Charlton Heston...First I was gonna go with:

“It's been quite a ride. I loved every minute of it.”

But...looking at the context am going with:

“from my cold, dead hands.”



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Old 02-15-2011, 09:11 PM   #506
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Craig, i see you poking your nose on this thread. The shadow knows.

Stitcht, you got it
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:42 PM   #507
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Granpa,

I have used LRP and Tekin brushed speed controls in my M-Chassis and F-1 cars and they seem to work pretty good. I see that you mentioned KO. Is there a benefit or are all of the higher end esc's about the same. Does it just come down to brand preference?

I recently got a M06 and am not sure which esc to put in it permantly. What are some other options and benefits aside from the standard Tekin FX and QC3.

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:46 PM   #508
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I have an M06 kit, unwrapped , waiting to be built. I have a few ???? cause some of the stuff I've seen posted and on built cars just doesn't compute.

1. Why are cvd's such a huge advantage over the stock dog bones?? The angle changes are so minimal can't seem to understand why they are such a neccessity.

2. Why are universals so bad in the M06 when they are chosen over the cvd on the front drivers by many of the better Mini racers????

3. What advantage is there to the aluminum rear end bits??? It looks like the aluminum parts (motor mount and the part on the other side) would be heavier than the stock parts. Do you want to add extra weight back there?? It seems to me that it would increase the polar moment of inertia which doesn't seem like a good idea???

4. Why do I see so many low profile servos with all the asssociated aluminum parts. Does it give you enough of an advantage in performance to justify the added expense and the awkwardness in changing batteries???

My apologies, but I hate spending money on Bling. If there are any Bling parts on one of my cars, it came in the kit.
Perhaps too late, but hopefully still useful.

I bought the M06 pro.

I found the effort not justifiable. You only get one thing I would have bought anyway, the hingepins which I hate in stock guise, they are just typical Tamiya el cheapo crap.

All the other upgrades such as blue anodised turnbuckle steering rod, transparent shocks, are really nice and completely useless and I would have traded it all for the two wheelbearings I found missing form the kit.

The important point to follow when building the car are indeed the use of the little foam dealies in the outdrives as well as axles, as this will locate the dogbone without risk of it coming out. One hint here is that yu can bias this location by cutting the foam as desired so your dogbones can sit more inboard or more outboard. I didn't bother.

The role of aluminium bling is sometimes to save money on replacing plastic bits when threads wear out and screws don't hold anything down. Hope you won't be as disappointed as I was to find every other screw went in and kept turning forever with next to no effort. I replaced those with machine screws (M3x0.5) preferably longer if holes/room allowed. Hopefully that way the nice bits I paid extra for are not going to decorate the track. I like to buy alloy suspension bits (excluding arms) in aluminium if they are available. I never liked having my hubs hang on for dear life by a grubscrew in plastic threads. This is not the case here, but front C hubs are still held by that marvel of indomitable Tamiya genius, the step screw posing as kingpin. No point trying to tell you how many you'll find all over the various tracks where mini owners congregate, which perhaps is a good thing.

The transparent shocks are really awesome and absolutely impossible to build. I wasted all the oil that comes in the kit and another three bottles like it to achieve a result that I could have achieved if I had not tried at all. I was trying to build them with no rebound, you see, as per manual. What an inspired way to spend an unforgettable week, thank you Tamiya. Being transparent, you will see every little buble of air, which is nice, so you will be absolutely perfectly aware of the fact that the shock is always going to have air bubbles no matter what you do. Next time I will build these shocks immersed in shock oil. The upside of the impossibility of building the shocks is that because they are so nice and absolute crap it doesn't matter how you build them, they work the same, and they work quite well it turns out. Just make sure your car is a s low to the ground as possible (or allowed).

Which brings me to the point of buying TRF shocks. If you want them, buy them but I tell you they will help your car just as much by sitting on the shop shelf. Just build the kit stock shocks as per manual and they'll do fine. Be careful, there are different inserts to use in front and rear shocks as they have different lengths (not that is matters).

The end result of your efforts will be a beautifully crafted well put together RWD slop machine that would wobbble itself to pieces were it not for the sticky tape and zip ties included in the kit and strategically placed at the bottom of the tub and around the power wires. Which makes any investment in a reasonbale servo an indisputable proof of insanity. There is slop in the steering, wheels, suspension, and every little plastic bit attached to every other plastic bit. Body posts however due to their brilliant design and square keyed joints are stiff and sturdy as the gates of hell. I used a servo that is probably older than me (and I went a few times around the block) and the car steers fine. Has a nice blue anodised saver thingie too that melted my heart when I found it in the box. Of course, the other half of the servo is plastic which makes the alloy half completely pointless.

You just have to love it though. This little treasure has costed so much, took so much time to build and put you through so many future treasured memories of your life, it has to be one of those family heirlooms handed down through the generations. Whatever is left of it after the first race that is.

I put on paper all the upgrades Tamiya is ready to sell us for this little car and I found I could buy two Goose Naked S kits for that, so I bought one and saved the rest. The M06PRO goes a lot better now.

Good luck.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:25 PM   #509
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Wow Grandpa, you've gone and done it! Stirred up the hornets... with a vengeance. Never have I had so much fun reading on the Mini forum (And I only just found out that there was an M06 thread... you've really been busy).

The TCS is pretty dead and only gets attention just before race time. Silver Can just doesn't have anything to say these days. But Mini is HOT. All The Aussies chip'n in, Belgium & Europa, GB, and Sir Swifty chatty as can be - cool stuff. But shouldn't we combine the 03, M05 and M06 into ONE forum? I think we all have the same interest (Tamiya Minis), so lets keep it vibrant and one-stop.

Question: Is there really a front/back to the TA03 ball diff thrust bearing? One side is "flat"" and the other has a bevel, but does it make any difference which way it is installed? And the cone washers, three or four? When you use wheel bearings as thrust bearings (old Dave Jun trick), even the good blue shield Tamiya bearings won't last very long - "crunchy" quickly.

Bling Rules!!
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:31 PM   #510
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Niznai, thank you. That was a good laugh. You should consider writing for a living, or at least a serious hobby.

So...what is the deal with the clear shocks anyway? I've never been able to figure it out. They're crap and the break easily...ohhhh...now I get it.
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