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Old 01-03-2017, 04:35 PM   #1966
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I am installing the VII suspension arms on my M06. can someone tell me, is this the correct orientation for M06 using Medium wheelbase?

thanks
According to the manual it's the correct orientation for all wheelbase settings.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:12 PM   #1967
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I am installing the VII suspension arms on my M06. can someone tell me, is this the correct orientation for M06 using Medium wheelbase?

thanks
Thats how I have mine installed, I run MWB as well
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:36 PM   #1968
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Thanks Gigaplex and Raman,

That is what I kind of thought but the instructions for the VII suspension arms are more specific for the M05 model and are a bit more vague for the M06. ...thanks guys!
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:45 PM   #1969
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Thanks Gigaplex and Raman,

That is what I kind of thought but the instructions for the VII suspension arms are more specific for the M05 model and are a bit more vague for the M06. ...thanks guys!
I was actually referring to the M06 manual rather than the instructions that comes with the arms.
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:40 AM   #1970
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Anyone ran the HIP Datsun 510 body on the M06
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:43 AM   #1971
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Anyone ran the HIP Datsun 510 body on the M06
I haven't run it but it fits just fine. The only cup racer body that will not fit well is the Lancia Stratos, because the front is so low
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Old 01-04-2017, 09:55 AM   #1972
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I was actually referring to the M06 manual rather than the instructions that comes with the arms.
ah/thanks.

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Anyone ran the HIP Datsun 510 body on the M06
Sounds like someone else already answered, but I own the 510 body (as well a a few other of the "true ten" hpi bodies ...so if you need any measurements..
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:27 AM   #1973
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I haven't run it but it fits just fine. The only cup racer body that will not fit well is the Lancia Stratos, because the front is so low
And the motor will stick out of the back. But other than that....
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:10 PM   #1974
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And the motor will stick out of the back. But other than that....
That's the Stratos way.. I'm still racing with the KB Stratos in USGT.. Handles pretty darn well
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Old 01-21-2017, 03:03 AM   #1975
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I got my M06 finished last night and took it for a first spin. Although "spin" is a bit misleading, as my car won't oversteer even a bit, and I'm not even using any traction compound.. I'm running a stock motor though, so that might be my "problem". But, at least it's controllable! I'll have to dive into the controller settings later, and buy that competition motor when they come back in stock, but so far I'm really liking this.

The first run was with a borrowed BMW body, Alfa Romeo coming soon™.



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Old 01-21-2017, 01:04 PM   #1976
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Originally Posted by mcmattila View Post
I got my M06 finished last night and took it for a first spin. Although "spin" is a bit misleading, as my car won't oversteer even a bit, and I'm not even using any traction compound.. I'm running a stock motor though, so that might be my "problem". But, at least it's controllable! I'll have to dive into the controller settings later, and buy that competition motor when they come back in stock, but so far I'm really liking this.

The first run was with a borrowed BMW body, Alfa Romeo coming soon™.



Welcome Mc Mattila,
good that the first run was successful!
I see you ran S-or M-grip tires rear, radial in front! that is some tire combo giving you quite much understeer, but for sure good control and no oversteer tendency. Even with a more powerful motor, this impression would not change much. Usually, I run S-Grips front and rear on my M06. Then I can reduce steering by Radio settings, but have good turn in.
Will you attend races with your new chassis?
Kind regards,
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:08 PM   #1977
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Thanks ruebiracer!
Yeah, I built the chassis as per the manual, so everything is stock (apart from some Yeah Racing hops), and the tires are as you said radials in the front and S-grips in the back. I don't currently have another pair of S-grips, only radials and slicks. But I'll keep your advice in mind when ordering new sets! I could also experiment a bit with the tires I have and see what I can come up with.

As for racing, I'm not currently looking at signing up for the league stuff as I'm very new at the hobby and don't have as much time for practice as I would like to. And I would also need that comp motor to qualify for the racing, anyway. That being said, I'm doing hot lapping and racing for fun in our club, so it's not just driving aimlessly.
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:09 AM   #1978
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Just finishing my M06 build (first of two). A couple questions come up.

1) Do the gold springs go on the front and silver (softer) on the rear? Would seem correct...the manual "picture" did not adequately match either spring I've got. You'd think since thbuiltey're different colors they could have called out which color...

2) I built the camber link/upper arms and tie rods exactly to the specified length (gap between ball ends). Eyeballing things the rear looks like the camber ended up in the ballpark, zero to maybe slightly negative camber. The front, however, was no where nearly close in either camber or toe. I ended up turning the ball ends together on the camber link and it MIGHT be to zero camber, possibly still a little bit positive, I haven't tried to do anything with the tie rods yet because screwing the camber links in has brought the toe pretty close to zero. Similar experience? Obviously I can disassemble the camber links and cut some material off the backside to get more adjustment...provided the threads are not bottomed out in the end.

3) I was surprised (well...maybe not) that the first M-Chassis with adjustable camber doesn't come with turnbuckles. I know these end up being packaged with a sharp eye on cost, but come on Tamiya...I'd pay a couple bucks more for the ease of adjustment. What are others doing for turnbuckle links?

4) What are folks using for servos?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Scott
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:14 AM   #1979
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Just finishing my M06 build (first of two). A couple questions come up.

1) Do the gold springs go on the front and silver (softer) on the rear? Would seem correct...the manual "picture" did not adequately match either spring I've got. You'd think since thbuiltey're different colors they could have called out which color...

2) I built the camber link/upper arms and tie rods exactly to the specified length (gap between ball ends). Eyeballing things the rear looks like the camber ended up in the ballpark, zero to maybe slightly negative camber. The front, however, was no where nearly close in either camber or toe. I ended up turning the ball ends together on the camber link and it MIGHT be to zero camber, possibly still a little bit positive, I haven't tried to do anything with the tie rods yet because screwing the camber links in has brought the toe pretty close to zero. Similar experience? Obviously I can disassemble the camber links and cut some material off the backside to get more adjustment...provided the threads are not bottomed out in the end.

3) I was surprised (well...maybe not) that the first M-Chassis with adjustable camber doesn't come with turnbuckles. I know these end up being packaged with a sharp eye on cost, but come on Tamiya...I'd pay a couple bucks more for the ease of adjustment. What are others doing for turnbuckle links?

4) What are folks using for servos?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Scott
Hi Scott,

1. Gold are super soft so they go in front to minimise under steer. Silver are soft I believe and go on rear. Unfortunate on the basic kit Tamiya throws in those useless dampers and springs.

Pick up a set of aluminium dampers, they will make a world of difference. Yeah racing sells a set for $20... Make sure they are the 50mm.

http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-xpress-shockgear-50mm-damper-touring-p-36295.html?cPath=389_390

If you want to stick with Tamiya, the TRF 54000 dampers can be found for a good price ($39) in Hong Kong stores

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54000-50mm-mchassis-aluminum-damper-pr-25921.html



2. A good trick for setting up the camber and steering tie rod is to use these spacers in between the links (Tamiya 53539)

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=621

The blue are in increments of 1,0
mm and the silver are in 0,5

So for a distance of 1,5mm you use the thinnest silver and blue, then tighten the rod ends until they are snug. Takes out all the guess work

3. The turn buckled came with the Pro and R spec chassis which are both discontinued.

Last edited by Raman; 01-22-2017 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:33 AM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Just finishing my M06 build (first of two). A couple questions come up.

1) Do the gold springs go on the front and silver (softer) on the rear? Would seem correct...the manual "picture" did not adequately match either spring I've got. You'd think since thbuiltey're different colors they could have called out which color...

2) I built the camber link/upper arms and tie rods exactly to the specified length (gap between ball ends). Eyeballing things the rear looks like the camber ended up in the ballpark, zero to maybe slightly negative camber. The front, however, was no where nearly close in either camber or toe. I ended up turning the ball ends together on the camber link and it MIGHT be to zero camber, possibly still a little bit positive, I haven't tried to do anything with the tie rods yet because screwing the camber links in has brought the toe pretty close to zero. Similar experience? Obviously I can disassemble the camber links and cut some material off the backside to get more adjustment...provided the threads are not bottomed out in the end.

3) I was surprised (well...maybe not) that the first M-Chassis with adjustable camber doesn't come with turnbuckles. I know these end up being packaged with a sharp eye on cost, but come on Tamiya...I'd pay a couple bucks more for the ease of adjustment. What are others doing for turnbuckle links?

4) What are folks using for servos?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Scott
In respect of your camber issues on the front did you remember to trim 2mm off each BB15 adjuster before measuring the gap between them - it's an easy step to miss and leaves the upper link 4mm too long which gives you huge positive camber.
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