Raman

iTrader: (94)

This is a weight transition problem.

Pick the car up by front shock tower and see which tyre lifts off the ground first. It should be even. Do the same for the rear.

Next Pick the car up front centre and rear centre and see if the car tilts to one side. If it does, you need to add weight to heavier side, or reduce weight on lighter side


you're turning better right then left, then you have a may have less weight on left side than right. You may a

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I'm not sure what's the motive behind the change after all this time.. GT1 / GT2 I understand, there are much better tyres out there. Having never ran the spec m chassis tyre, I can only guess it's the price?

If they make a change, I hope it's for the Shimizu inner mesh series.. They are awesome and give plenty of shore option. The lower 55D profile would also slow the cars down a tad

Laguna Bozo

The problem with the TCS-spec 60D super grips is the flexible sidewall. That's why all the chatter about side wall gluing. Finally, Tamiya is running out of the last big warehouse order of super grips, and Fred is listening to all the M-chassis racers wanting a better tire. Probably helps that their experience changing F-1 tires to Pits worked out really well. The TC drivers aren't too enamored with B3's either, most using Sorex except for TCS. So, there may be lots of Tamiya racing tire changes coming soon...

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Well I hope m chassis also switches pit Shimizu 55D inner mesh.. Less profile than the 60D Classic and a lot more shore options

PS-0430 RACING INNER MESH (24R) 2
PS-0431 RACING INNER MESH (27R) 2
PS-0417 RACING INNER MESH (30R) 2
PS-0433 RACING INNER MESH (33R) 2
PS-0434 RACING INNER MESH (36R) 2
PS-0436 RACING INNER MESH (40R) 2
PS-0435 Special Rear tyre super soft

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I have a question about shocks for the M06,
I was going to use the Big bore TRF's on my M06. However when I opened them up and looked at the instructions it say that for an M06 you need 2pcs of a 34mm piston (the standard/stock ones seem to be about 24mm).

So, do I need to get the longer pistons OR can I use the longer plastic shaft piece that attaches to the end of the piston and the ball joint on the chassis outer arms (as opposed to the shorter ones) to gain the extra shock length?

thanks.
I get that this may become more apparent once I get to the shock portion of my build, right now I am only at the gearbox (waiting on a set of ball bearings to arrive) before I can move much further.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Progress thus far,
-I am familiar w/ the metal gear box plate and potential motor arcing ...however I plan to use a speed passion motor I have which has the wire ends coming directly out of the endbell (not the side like most motors)

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

oops forgot the photo-

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

For anyone who may not have seen it in the Mini Cooper thread. Another new M-Chassis.. Xpresso M1 (210 mm) RWD, due in the next couple of weeks.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Looks kind like a drift chassis

MatsNorway

Looks really cool. Hope for a fun article by the RC-mini guys

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I only installed the motor plate on gear side for that reason. I thought about having someone counter sink the holes so that screws would not be / or come into contact with motor tabs, but never got around to it

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

as you can see from this photo the motor wires won't be anywhere near the plate. I really wanted the plate for added cooling and strength. W/ my M05 one of the biggest things in keeping it competitive is having a cool running motor.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Plus it looks stunning .. Mine is all scratched up from when I used to race on asphalt.

I've been tempted to buy a replacement now that I race on carpet.. Can you say OCD lol

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I figure it will get scratched up. I don't I don't mind that so much. LOL

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I am installing the VII suspension arms on my M06. can someone tell me, is this the correct orientation for M06 using Medium wheelbase?

thanks